Here are a few different Strykers with Co-pilot.

Note: The F-27B model has had a complete upgrade of radio, brushless etc......Stock F-27B 5 wire servo's will not work with Co-pilot.

Co-pilot's Computer plugs to receiver. Servos plug into Co-pilot's computer.

Co-pilot's sensor sits outside and plugs into it's computer using a ribbon cable which is too long at 24" but can be shortened.
Optional 18" cable is still too long...I've made the 24" cable fit fine.
18", 36" and 48" cables are purchased separately.

Red button is for calibration and setup.

_____________________________

Extra ch is not required.
IF you have extra ch with on/off switch then Co-pilot can be turned on and off
If extra ch is rotating knob the first half if off position, then increasing gain adjustment.

I suggest the gain dial gets set to 10% to 15% above minimum for starters…because if it is too high you will not be able to bank plane…and if you do not have on/off switch then you cannot turn….LOL..

I do have switch but do not want to turn switch on and off, I leave the transmitter switch in on position but with gain set on low….just gives me slower correction and I barely feel it fighting me to keep plane level…..at high speed I do not need to give down elevator input to keep the Stryker level, it takes care of it for me… Helpes me do radar runs 5 foot off the deck with total control.

With JR/Spektrum radio in a Stryker, if outside sensor gets oriented exactly like mine, then you can set your DIP switches just like mine, otherwise you can follow directions in manual.


http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?...489&section=20


Gryphon

hey everyone..... just picked up a stryker!!! i wanted a really fast RTF for my next plane, and this fit the bill....

im getting ready for the maiden this morning, but i have a quick question.....

i went back and read through some of the threads (breifly, theres a ton of stuff!), and found a ton of good info, but not exactly what i was looking for....

essentially, im looking for the "3 things " (or five, or whatever) you wished you did to your stryker when you took it out of the box.... I.E. reinforcments, mods, etc......

ive already applied liberall ammounts of packing tape to the nose and underside....

im keeping the electronics stock for a while, i just need the instant gratification of a speedy plane........

also, i noticed the motor mount seems to be at a slight angle (yaw).... ill edit up a pic in a bit.... and i had this extra plastic bit, wich i cant find any info on

any tips for a 1st timer would be greatly appreciated!!!!

thanks for reading.....

Good luck with it. I didn't use the stock mount, so cannot speak to the yaw situation. Here is what I'd do in your case, though:

1) When you launch it, throw it hard with a slight up angle (not too much--don't stall it!) and be ready immediately to counter roll until it gets up speed. Give pretty significant throttle. I would also have it trimmed, to begin with, with a slight bit of right aileron to counter motor torque and assist with launch (because these planes can roll to the left when first launched).
2) If you have any, get some strapping tape (which is high quality packing tape with fiberglass threads in it--VERY strong) and tape over the motor mount a few inches forward on both the top and bottom. This is because I've seen in crashes the motor mount rip away from the foam. If you "extend" it with this tape, essentially there is more foam for the mount to use if you crash.
3) Center of gravity is exactly at, or at the front of, the tiny little circles within the grips on the underside of the plane. The grips are a couple of inches long each where your fingers go and the circles I'm talking about are a bit smaller than a dime within those. CoG should balance at around the front of those circles.
4) Otherwise, use some packing tape on the underside and be pretty liberal with it. Since the plane skids when it lands, I'd be sure to cover the servo wires, put a strip of tape on the leading edge of each wing (assists a great deal with any collision) and tape around the fuselage on the bottom so that it skids on tape. On the off chance that the tape starts to come off the plane, put your strips from the back to the front, that way the only piece of tape that has its edge facing the air is the very front one, which covers up the strips further back. I am a big believe in good packing tape, like 3M stuff instead of cheap tape, which has poorer adhesion, is much harder to work with, and just isn't as strong.

In JWilliams2's #2 comment above, he mentioned motor breaking away in crash. Look back at post #4333 for example of this.

thanks for the replies....

i wouldnt have thought to reinforce the motor mount..... looks like a fun repair

if all goes well, i should be able to maiden later on today!! its a bit windy, but nice and steady.... and from what i hear, this thing looks at wind a laughs

thanks again!

Has any one crashed the F-27 because of a receiver error?

Originally Posted by parkpilot101

Has any one crashed the F-27 because of a receiver error?

mine is on 2,4ghz

Originally Posted by Sirius35

mine is on 2,4ghz

what did you choose for a RX??? not alot of room in this thing

ill be setting mine up with a DX6i, but im still shopping for the stryker RX......

iamtheroboto, post #4051 shows a Spektrum AR6100 drops in nicely.

Originally Posted by fall666

iamtheroboto, post #4051 shows a Spektrum AR6100 drops in nicely.

excellent!, thank you!

that one was on the shopping list.....

hopefully ill be able to pick one up at the LHS.....

I read about too many high powered Strykers and Funjets crashing with AR6100.....regardless of any reasons people can come up with, it is interesting there are no stories of the same signal loss with AR6200, and AR7000.

These may help:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM1600

When buying external BEC (UBEC), I buy 6V with no less than 2A.

The new 5ch receiver is a full range unit...too new to hear any bad stuff, but I rather experiment with it than get AR6100, AR6300.

New 5ch full range receiver:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SPMAR500

AR6100 and 6300 do not say "FULL Range"

Also there is a bulletin for AR6100, they want them sent it for a reprogram.

Just breaks my heart to keep reading about crashes due to signal loss and almost every time I read that they had AR6100. They just helplessly watch their plane go down. (on various forums and threads)

I'll stick to AR6200 and AR7000.

Good luck to us all.

Happy flying folks,


Gryphon

i've been flying my planes for about a yr now with no signal losses i have 4 ar6100's i cant say much about the others as i have never used anything else,i always make sure my soldered connections are good and on my planes with more than 2 servos i use a 5-6 volt ubec.seems some peeps have probs but i will continue to use the 6100's,course if you look hard enough you can find some peeps have probs no matter what they use (2 recievers are ver 1.2 and 2 are ver 1.6)as for range i go vert till i cant see them and havent had any range issues with my jets and they get out of sight very quickly also as for not hearing about the others i'm betting that the 6100 is the most used reciever in the parkflyers,hence more ppl report on them the others are used by a lot of the bigger planes that are at airfields so you dont hear about them so much.

I am old school (read: too cheap to upgrade) and use an AR6000 with its wires all smushed in there close. I've just taken for granted that it doesn't lose signal and it never has

o it will... Ive seen 5 high end wings brownout... it is not pretty afterward