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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:03 PM
Gig 'Em!
TexasAggie's Avatar
United States, TX, College Station
Joined Nov 2010
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You can mount an outrunner in the stock mounts easily. You will probably have to shave the inside ribs, though, since they will likely rub (as you pointed out - you can even see where I've scraped the finish off of mine ). It's easier to describe with a picture, so here you go. The motors most use have rear mounting holes. I see the Himax may not have those so you may be stuck, unless you do some modding like the last photo.







Ooh I like the look of that spinner! I may have to get a set!
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Last edited by TexasAggie; Aug 22, 2011 at 10:15 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:14 PM
So many UMs, so little money.
Nashville
Joined Jun 2008
380 Posts
If there's a chance of something shorting out, you should probably heatsink your wires, then it won't be an issue.

Or just devise another mount like some of us have.

I don't think you'd have room for an inrunner and gear in the nacelle.

Brandon
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:32 PM
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Joined Sep 2004
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Thanks Ag & Brandon, valuable information. Heat sinking my wires- that's a new one on me. I just searched "heatsink wires" on this thread and got your post to me! Please explain..... Thanks
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:58 PM
So many UMs, so little money.
Nashville
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380 Posts
No worries, I'm just a dunce and meant to type heat*shrink* your wires. Doh!



Brandon
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeveSSL View Post
No worries, I'm just a dunce and meant to type heat*shrink* your wires. Doh!



Brandon
That's a good one!
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 12:33 PM
Electrif(r)ied nitroman
danny.act's Avatar
BelgiŽ, Vlaams Gewest, Putte
Joined Jun 2004
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Brushless outrunner mounted in Twinstar orig. config.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 02:08 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2011
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FPV Vibration

I'm having vibration issues under power with my TwinStar... hopefully someone can help. On-board video, both CMOS and CCD, is no good. I have two kinds of vibration: high frequency that seems to come from the motor areas and elusive low frequency.

At the moment I'm running cheapo Turnigy 2209-1080kv motors http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5687 turning APC 8x6e thin electric props. I've done a beginner's job of balancing the props and the motor cans with bits of electrical tape, which has helped slightly but far from a solution.

I'm looking at upgrading the motors but how much might that help? The low frequency vibration only happens under load but doesn't seem to be a direct result of the power system. Could it just be air buffeting the tail surfaces? Aerodynamically my TwinStar is 99% stock. Might better motors help this anyway? Would changing props help, such as switching from APC's "thin electrics" to slow-fliers? Is the TwinStar just a vibrating, oscillating design? Thing is, I've seen other people shoot videos that are waaay smoother than mine. It's killing me! Any help would be much appreciated.

PS. If nicer motors are the answer, what motors are the smoothest? Are Inrunners generally smoother than outrunners or vice versa? Are particular brands known for turbine-like operation? I don't need more than 150 watts per motor and staying under $50/60 per motor would be nice.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 02:49 PM
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Joined Aug 2007
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Those are the motors I use, in the standard plastic mounts attached by just 2 screws like the brushed motors and they are smooth as silk. I wore out a set of cheap prop adapters in the first year which caused some bad vibration but have not had any real vibration since fitting a decent set. I occasionally see a bit of vibration when going full power on the ground but I think that is the plastic or foam flexing against the static thrust.

You really need to balance the props as best you can on a proper balancer. I bought 4 APC E 7 X 5 and one of the four was so far out of balance it was useless. Luckily I have never needed a spare set.

The nose of the TS is in fairly clean air so buffeting shouldn't be too much of a problem but most things have an oscillation point in a strong air flow so make sure everything is tied down tightly.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 02:59 PM
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TexasAggie's Avatar
United States, TX, College Station
Joined Nov 2010
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The vibration I experienced has been due to 2 things: the prop being out of balance and a resonant frequency of the motor/prop mount.

Prop: I did like you in that I just balanced them roughly with experimentation. Some of the APC props are better than others, but they all need to be balanced well. Do I'm about to and get a decent prop balancer. It will be worth way more than its price if you're FPVing, like I intend to. If it's not precisely balanced, there will be a continuous vibration increasing with increasing throttle.

Resonant frequency: Spinning at a very certain RPM, my motors and prop mounts scream, literally! It's a low-throttle setting and it sounds horrible. I think this is due to the motors buzzing at the resonant frequency of the mount, unleashing startling vibration. To work around this, I programmed my radio to skip over the range where this happens. I lost some of my low-end throttle, but I'm willing to sacrifice that.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 04:02 PM
So many UMs, so little money.
Nashville
Joined Jun 2008
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Which balancers are you guys using? The Top Flite looks pretty sweet for the money.

Brandon
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by NeveSSL View Post
Which balancers are you guys using? The Top Flite looks pretty sweet for the money.

Brandon
I like the DuBro as it is more versatile for larger props and spinners.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 05:06 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2011
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I have one of those finger tip prop balancers and it drives me crazy! I just ordered the top flite magnetic balancer and I'll spend some serious time balancing my props when it arrives.

I'm using Great Plane's collet adapters http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMSG3
and these TwinStar motor mounts http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...&ref=MDMTPLXMM
I wonder if plastic motor mounts might damp vibration in a way that metal ones don't?

I know something is up with these Turnigy 2209 motors though because one draws 140 watts WOT on the ground while the other only draws 125 watts! They also sound different and have different free-spinning resistances. Suffice to say that I want to remove them as a variable. I'm looking at scorpion, hacker, e-flite, hyperion, electrifly, etc... option overload. I guess the place to start is picking inrunner or outrunner. Any suggestions for maximum smoothness and remaining smooth for a long time?
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 05:37 PM
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United States, OH, Cleveland
Joined Feb 2010
555 Posts
Got my TS in the mail yesterday... starting to order parts...

any input would be great.... especially on the motors...and any suggestions on prop size?

Motor:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/86ma66-2215-1050kv.html

Motor mount:
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...&ref=MDMTPLXMM
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 05:48 PM
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TexasAggie's Avatar
United States, TX, College Station
Joined Nov 2010
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In order to pick a motor/prop combo, you have to decide how you want it to fly. Do you want a cargo TS like mine, capable of hauling its own weight in cargo and still climbing at a 60 degree angle? Do you want a zoomer like Genek124 on Post 7625? I'll be happy to give some help, since others have done the same with me, but you have to let me know what you expect to use it for and what performance you're looking for.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 06:13 PM
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United States, OH, Cleveland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasAggie View Post
In order to pick a motor/prop combo, you have to decide how you want it to fly. Do you want a cargo TS like mine, capable of hauling its own weight in cargo and still climbing at a 60 degree angle? Do you want a zoomer like Genek124 on Post 7625? I'll be happy to give some help, since others have done the same with me, but you have to let me know what you expect to use it for and what performance you're looking for.
Thans TexasAggie...

I plan on having a sport flier... I don't expect blazing speeds that's what my FunJet is for... but I just want to zoom around...

planning on using a set of 30amp controllers I already have...
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