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Old Apr 15, 2002, 06:17 PM
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About to put together my EZ-400G

Well I'm about to get started and I have a couple of questions.

1st: What glue to use? The directions say CA or epoxy...Should I just go to Home Depot and pick up some generic epoxy?

2nd: It comes with a three piece wing, when I matched up the end pieces with the center piece, they don't seem to fit flush. One side has a gap and the other will touch in the center but not on the edges. This would make it quite difficult to glue together? should I sand it down?

As you can probably already tell, I have no experience building models....Amazing, I've built a telescope in a truss tube configuration that's 6 feet tall but this 27oz plane is already kicking my butt. Here's a link to the plane
http://www.nesail.com/ez400glider.htm

Thanks,

Joe
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Old Apr 15, 2002, 10:33 PM
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Hello??? waiting patiently
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Old Apr 15, 2002, 10:47 PM
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oakland, ca
Joined Jun 2001
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Joe. yes, sand the end ribs so they fit flush, get some 5 min. epoxy from a hobby store, run a strip of clear packing tape around the joint. With the center section flat the distance from the table surface to the tips should be aprox. the same. Also watch for warping, these wings all have warps and they will not fly straight. Good luck, Scott
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Old Apr 16, 2002, 12:57 PM
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Thanks for the help..... These instructions are horrible for someone that has never put a model together.

Joe
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Old Apr 16, 2002, 02:23 PM
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Joe,
Yes, the instructions are very slim. I have a Pleaser 400, an EZ 400, and the EZ 400G, and a friend of mine also has a 400G. They are excellent airplanes, tons of fun to fly. Just watch out for warped wings. Let me know how it goes. Scott
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Old Apr 17, 2002, 12:00 PM
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Scott,

got two more quick questions. When I glue the stab on the fuse boom should the hinge (tape) on the elevator be facing up or down....I'm guessing the side with the tape should be facing up.
2nd: Where should the CG be?

Thanks,

Joe
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Old Apr 17, 2002, 10:22 PM
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oakland, ca
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Hi Joe,
Yes, I agree, the tape should be on the top side, it won't collect dirt if you fly off of ball field like I do. With the CG I just kept it at or foreward of the spar, should do fine. Scott
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Old Apr 18, 2002, 07:34 AM
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Need a few more details on my EZ-400

I am building an EZ-400 as I am reading these posts. I have a few questions also. How far back on the boom should the motor mount be installed? What have you found to be the best control surface throws (lengths)? Is the capacitor, that needs to be soldered onto the motor, really needed? What's its purpose? THANKS a lot, Hank
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Old Apr 18, 2002, 11:30 PM
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Hi Hank,
My motor mount came installed, was flush with the end of the boom. For throws I set them at the minimum, outer most hole on the control horn and inner most hole on the servo worked for me. After you get used to the model you can adjust to your level. The cap goes across the motor ternimals to help prevent receiver glitching, there should be two caps inside the motor from the case to each terminal, if you look you can see them. Good luck, Scott
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Old Apr 19, 2002, 04:42 PM
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Thanks Scott

Scott, THANKS for the very helpful info. I hope to have my EZ-400 flying within a few days. Hank
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Old Apr 19, 2002, 06:38 PM
I'll have the roast duck
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good luck, let me know how it goes, and I can't say this enough, make sure you have the correct amount of wash out. Scott
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Old Apr 20, 2002, 10:57 AM
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WOW!

Scott, everything is installed and ready to go. Just did some bench testing and that motor/prop combination, with a charged battery, REALLY has a LOT of pull. Can't wait to take it to the field.
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Old Apr 20, 2002, 12:27 PM
I'll have the roast duck
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Yea, the thing has like 0 ground roll, it just floats of the ground. It's a great bird, lands like a feather!
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Old Apr 20, 2002, 10:04 PM
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Motor mount problems

Well I put some CA on the motor mount to hold it in place...It seemed strong enough. Reved the motor very slightly ...SNAP!! the CA holding the motor mount gave. Sanded it down now I'm trying epoxy(curing as I type). I'm very suprised the way the motor mount just gets glued the the fuse. It doesn't seem very strong. Hank...what did you use to glue the motor mount to the fuse stick? Here's another problem I ran into but solved. The rudder was attached too close to the stabilizer giving the rudder not much room to move. The servo had trouble moving it in one direction. I had to take the hinge tape off the rudder, cut more of an anlge on the leading edge and reinstall it leaving more of a gap then it came with so it would be free to move. Now I just hope the motor mount holds! We'll see. If it does, should have a follow up (fly,crash) report soon. This is my first plane other than my Firebird XL. Should be interesting.

Joe
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Old Apr 21, 2002, 06:10 AM
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Weak link.....

Yeah, it looks to me if there is a weak point on this design it's the engine mount. When trying to figure the 4 degree down AND right thrust angles, I cut small triangles of light aircraft plywood that had 94 degree angles. (a right angle plus the 4 degrees needed for the correct thrust angle). I expoxied (I use 30 minute here) the plys to the fuse stick and the engine mount for added strength. They are small and not very noticable. My rudder-to-vertical-stab has just enough clearance for an appropriate rudder throw. If I find it needs anymore throw after it's initial flight, I'll have to remove the tape and widen the gap. I have a nice hand sanding unit I bought from Towers (Great Planes)--it must be about 20 inches long or so and made of aluminum (shaped sorta like a T). It worked well for sanding down the ribs in order to join the wing units. I had to trim back the covering from the ribs side (end) a little at a time, too. STILL CAN"T FLY mine yet, weather not cooperating. Please post your flight report. GOOD LUCK. Hank
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