How many times have those of us who fly electric-powered model airplanes asked the
question "Why can't the kit manufactures offer more products that allow electric
power as an alternative propulsion source?". I know there are many very fine kits on
the market that are offered for electric power, but there are also many others that would
be good e-power subjects that don’t offer that option in the kit material or building
instructions. Well, this appears to be changing in the world of models intended for rubber
power. Brian Malin’s BMJR Model Products has recently introduced a kit with a
rubber/electric power dual personality. Developed initially as a rubber powered model for
the P-30 class duration competition, the BMJR Ugly-30 is also offered as an electric
powered R/C park flyer. Brian no doubt noticed that within the park flyer class of our
beloved hobby, many modelers were turning to the traditional rubber powered free flights
as a source for some very nice slow fly or park fly type models. As a result, BMJR said
"Let’s give the purchaser of the Ugly-30 kit the option right up front for
building it as a rubber powered free flight, or as an electric powered model for either
free flight or R/C park flying". I sure hope many of the other kit manufactures who
offer a great selection of rubber powered free flight models will also follow the example
set by Brian Malin. For those who like to build as well as fly their park flyers, it sure
would open up a lot of possibilities.
Before I get into the many nice features of the Ugly-30, I would like to set the stage
for this review. For many of us, the time to build a model from the ground up is a real
challenge. Fortunately, there are a large number of quality, nearly ready to fly models
available to choose from. For others who have entered the hobby through the world of ARF
models, they are usually exposed at some point to models built by the flyer. I have heard
some in this category express a desire to learn to build their own model, but felt it
would be too difficult. The Ugly-30 represents a great opportunity to open the door to
built-up models for some one with the interest, but with limited or no prior experience.
The Ugly-30 is easy to build, and the well illustrated construction manual covers the key
steps very nicely. The Ugly-30 also represents a fantastic platform for experimenting with
the many electric power options available to the e-flyer who likes to do their flying in
parks or indoors. For this review, I tried three power set-ups of the many that could be
used. These different power packages really demonstrate the versatility of a model like
the Ugly-30. With all this in mind, why don’t we start our look at the BMJR Ugly-30?
Kit Contents
Kit Contents
Assembly Manual and R/C Conversion Addendum
Laser cut sheets
The Ugly-30 kit comes with all the essential materials to build the model. This
includes laser cut balsa sheets containing 52 parts for the model, strip wood, and a nice
construction manual that is presented in living color. Supplementing the construction
manual is a set of comprehensive instructions that cover the installation of the radio
gear if the model is to be flown under R/C control. The basic assembly manual covers the
steps unique to rubber or electric power. Both manuals are well done and should be quite
easy for an inexperienced builder to follow.
For those of you who may not have previously built a free flight model, you will find
some items in the kit that may surprise you. In addition to the expected balsa and other
bits, you will find a roll of covering material. Builders of free flight models are pretty
particular about their covering material, so most of the free flight kits come with a
suitable roll of covering. Included with the Ugly-30 is a roll of Polyspan. This material
has the look and feel of a traditional free flight covering material called silkspan.
Polyspan, however, is a synthetic heat shrinkable material much like the heat shrinkable
films we are familiar with. The major difference with Polyspan is it is very light weight,
and comes in only one color - translucent white. Color is obtained by applying dyed clear
dope, or color dope. Like some other light weight film type covering materials, Polyspan
also does not have any adhesive. You can either use heat activated adhesives, like
Balsarite or Balsaloc, or you can use thinned white glue. Along with the roll of Polyspan,
you also get a nice 9" rubber power prop, and enough strip rubber for one motor. The
prop is especially nice, because many of the people who dabble in the slow fly business
like to use rubber power props on their electric motors. So be sure you don’t just
toss the prop aside. Depending on your chosen power set-up, the included prop might be
just the ticket. Certainly if not for your Ugly-30, then some other future model where you
are searching for that magic prop.
I should note that because the Ugly-30's first mission in life is to be a free flight
model, the kit does not include any R/C specific hardware. This is certainly not a problem
for a model of this type, since most of the commercial hardware is not suitable for the
smaller park fly type models. Basically, you will need to provide your own material for
push rods (if you decide to use push rods) and possibly control horns. The R/C
instructions show dowel control horns and enough dowel material is included in the kit for
them. If you decide that dowel horns are not right for your set-up, then you will need
some thin plywood to make them. It just depends on your chosen equipment set-up.
As you probably know, I do like to look at the wood quality that is included in kits.
It is always a challenge to use wood that has enough lightness, and still offers the
needed structural strength. The wood used for the laser cut parts in the Ugly-30 review
kit was very consistent in density as shown in the table. While on the surface the wood
density may appear to be a bit higher than would be expected for a model that is intended
to serve as a free flight as well as an electric R/C model, a close look indicates all is
well. When you examine the model's design you can appreciate how the wood provided
is very appropriate. Major sheet wood parts have generous lightening holes, and the number
of sheet wood parts in minimal. As a result, you get strength where it is needed, and
unnecessary weight is removed. This combined with use of strip stock for a lot of the
structure results in a strong, light-weight finished model.
Components
Avg. Density (lb/ft3)
Wing laser cut parts
8.1
Fuselage parts
8.9
Tail surface laser cut parts
8.1
Construction
Fuselage
There really is no right place to start your construction of the Ugly-30. You can start
with any of the major assemblies. Because the design of the Ugly-30's fuselage has some
unique features, I decided to start there. Brian did several interesting things in his
design for the Ugly-30. First, he made two 25" sheet wood fuselage sides fit on
18" balsa sheets. This cleaver bit of packaging was accomplished by making each
fuselage side in two pieces. The laser cut joint provides good surface area for strength,
and is placed in the middle of the wing saddle. The location of the joint is ideal in
terms of any flight loads, and the joint gets added strength from a wing saddle doubler
that is glued to the inside of each fuselage side.
To help make sure the fuselage is built straight, the basic structural design uses the
tab and slot approach. That is, formers have tabs that fit into slots cut in the sides,
and the top and bottom sheeting also use tabs that fit in corresponding fuselage side
notches. This design approach is really enhanced by the accuracy achieved when parts are
laser cut.
The building sequence of the fuselage is very straight forward. After joining the
fuselage side pieces, you glue the formers to one of the sides. You then add the bottom
sheeting. The bottom sheeting develops the curve in the side, and makes sure the formers
are properly aligned. The other side is then added, followed by the top rear sheeting. The
generous lightening holes make it real easy to be sure you are getting adhesive to all of
the joints. The forward laser cut top sheet is not glued in place. This becomes a
removable hatch for access to the front of the fuselage.
Laser cut bottom and sides makes alignment easy.
Tab and slot design of the individual parts helps
everything line up. Strategic lightening holes help keep the finished fuselage structure
light.
The construction manual shows installation of optional landing gear for the R/C version
of the model. You are provided with the wheels and landing gear wire stock in the kit. You
do have to bend the wire stock to shape, but that is pretty easy with the gauge of wire
used. The installation of the landing gear is pretty cleaver. It is designed to be easily
removed, and also shock absorbing. The key to this design approach is the use of rubber
bands and dowels to retain the landing gear. It is really nice to have the option of
flying either with or without the gear installed. I took full advantage of this in my
various set-ups that are discussed in the flying section of the review.
I should note that due to variations in power settings when laser cut parts are run
through the equipment, the corresponding cut line gap can vary in thickness. It is a good
idea to check the fit of the parts before you make your adhesive choices. I found the fit
of some parts in the review Ugly-30 kit to be just a bit lose. In those areas, I elected
to use a good old traditional cellulose-based model airplane cement rather than CyA. To be
clear here, the parts fit just fine. There were just some areas that were not going to be
line to line fits where CyA could develop the best joint strength.
Tail Surfaces
The fuselage builds so fast, that you need to move on to another component while you
are in the swing of things. I chose to do the tail surfaces next. They are made up from
1/8" x 1/4" strip stock and some key laser cut parts. The classic rounded shape
of the fin/rudder of the "Stik" type designs is made easy with the Ugly-30
through the use of laser cut pieces. Each piece connects end-to-end through a nice laser
cut joint to form the entire outline. After the outline is laid out and glued, the strip
internal structure is added. The stabilizer/elevator is built the same way. The only
difference is that only the elevator is laser cut. The rest of the structure is made from
the 1/4"x 1/8" strip stock. While building a structure made up of sticks and
laser cut part may seem a little fiddly, it really is not difficult. In fact, you get a
real sense of satisfaction when you are finished.
The laser cut parts really simplify building the
tail surfaces
Wing
The wing, like the rest of the Ugly-30, is very straight forward and goes together very
quickly. The scalloped trailing edge, another trade mark of the "Stik" heritage
models, is provided as a laser cut part. Building the wing follows pretty traditional
steps. The wing outline is laid out along with the bottom spar. The main ribs are then
added. Once the main ribs are in place, the top spar is installed. With the top spar in
place, the half ribs are then added. That’s all there is to building the basic
structure.
The manual notes that if you are building the model for R/C, you might want to add some
shear webs to add a little strength. There is plenty of scrap material from the laser cut
sheet to do this, so I added vertical grain shear webbing to the inner two bays in each
wing panel. Once this was done, the panels were finish sanded and joined together.
Parts are in position and ready to start assembly.
Ready for the top spar and half ribs.
Shear webs were added to the inner bays for more
"aggressive" flying.
Ready for covering. A light strong structure.
We have now arrived at the point where the model is ready for covering. Depending on
your available building time, the process of framing up the Ugly-30 can be done in two or
three evenings of work.
Strategic lightening holes and stick
type structure makes a light, strong model.
Covering and Finish
I mentioned that the Ugly-30 kit included a nice roll of Polyspan for covering.
Because I wanted to use a traditional "Stik" type color scheme, I thought long
and hard about whether to use the Polyspan or some other covering material. I could
certainly have achieved my desired color layout with the Polyspan, but I was also anxious
to get the model in the air. As a result, I chose to use red and white Litespan for the
covering. This meant that I would not have to apply color to the model after covering. Not
a big deal, but it does save a little time.
After commenting on the potential added time to finish the model if colored dope is
used to add color to the model, I do have to confess to applying two coats of clear dope
to the Litespan after the model was covered. I did this for two reasons. First, it allowed
me to use black art tissue for the "Stik" iron cross markings. The applied clear
dope made it easy to stick down the tissue markings by brushing dope thinner through the
tissue. This softens the dope, and in turn sticks down the tissue markings. The second
reason I like to apply two thin coats of clear dope to Litespan is the overall feel it
gives to the covering. I like the covering to have a bit of a "ping" when
lightly thumped with your finger. Raw Litespan will not do that. In the end, since I chose
to apply two thin coats (50/50 thinner dope) of clear dope to the Litespan, I’m not
sure if I really saved any time by not using the supplied Polyspan.
Covered in red and white Litespan with
black tissue trim - ready for the first flight.
Equipment Installation
The Ugly-30 is truly a cavern when it come to having room for your radio equipment and
the power system. You can easily use the tiny micro gear, or some of the medium size
equipment. There is plenty of room, and as I learned when flying the model it can perform
well at a very wide flying weight range. Because there are so many possible choices for
equipping the Ugly-30, I decided to try three different set-ups. The first was a light
weight power system. The second was what I would call an intermediate power system that
was "donated" by my Watt Age Lite Stik. The third power set-up was one
recommended by BMJR and represents a more "aggressive" set-up.
Before covering each of the power system installations, I should briefly comment on the
general radio gear installation I used. For a receiver, I selected an Alpex unit that had
been massaged by Multiplex to remove the failsafe features. I chose this light weight
receiver to help generate a low end weight for the light weight power evaluation. Along
with the light weight Alpex receiver, I used Hitec HS-50 servos for the rudder and
elevator functions. The speed control was an old Jeti 05 unit that was available for use.
Because the kit does not supply any materials for setting up the control surfaces, the
builder has the option to use their preferred system. The manuals do outline the use of
music wire push rods, and dowel control horns. That way any really new builder will not be
left in the dark. You could also opt for a pull-pull cable installation. Either would work
fine and be easy to install. The fuselage top sheeting does incorporate two slots just
ahead of the stabilizer that are intended for music wire push rod exits. As a result, I
decided to take advantage of the supplied push rod exits. My push rods ended up being hard
1/8" square balsa with music wire ends. I did deviate from the dowel control horns
that were shown in the manual. While these can work quite well, I feel you get a little
bit better load transfer between the horn attachment point and the control surface by
using a plywood horn. For this reason, I made up some control horns from 1/32"
plywood. Control throws are not specified on the plan or in the manual. This is not a
problem. I found in flying the model they are not really very critical. Just let the
throws be what every your geometry work out to give.
Elevator and rudder push rod exits are
provided just forward of the fin. Dowel control horns are called out, or you can make them
from thin plywood as shown.
Landing gear are held in place with shock
absorbing rubber bands. This makes removal a snap for lighter weight hand launched
flights.
Light Weight Set-up
Since the Ugly-30 was initially intended to be a light weight free flight, I was not
sure how it would perform carrying the load of an electric motor, batteries, and R/C gear.
Also, I thought it would be interesting to see if it might be a candidate for indoor
flying if the all up weight were kept as low as possible (possible for me that is). With
this in mind, I decided to use a VL Product HY50B motor package. The all-up weight of this
motor and its included 5:1 planetary gear box is only 21 grams (.74 ounces). The VL HY50B
has been difficult to get for a while, but they are currently available from VL products.
John Worth, Cloud 9 R/C, also sells a hotter wind motor with the VL 5:1 planetary gear box
called the HY50F. You can contact VL or John Worth as follows:
VL Products
2934 1/2 Beverly Glen Circle
#255
Los Angeles, CA 90077
Prices:
VL HY50B motor/gearbox: $17.95 plus $3 postage in the US.
Props: VL's own 7.25" X 4.5" with built-in spinner @ $1.00. If you order props
only, be sure to add $3.00 postage.
Using an 8 cell 50 mAh pack, it will swing the VL 7" prop very nicely. The
small VL motor packages also make installation an absolute snap. They include a threaded
nose on the gear box that simply slips though a 1/4" hole in the firewall. A nylon
nut then locks the assembly to the model. Very neat and clean. I did find that I had to
locate the battery pack right up against the firewall in order to get the model to
balance. In this light weight configuration, I elected not to use the landing gear. The
landing gear weighs 16 grams (.56 ounces), and I wanted to keep the weight to a minimum.
The all up flying weight of this set-up was 174 grams (6.1 ounces).
The VL Products HY50 series motors are light and mount
painlessly to the firewall. The 50 mAh 8 cell pack fits nicely next to the motor to get
the balance right.
Medium Power Set-up
While trying to decide on a power set-up that would fall into this category, I had a
BFO (Blinding Flash of the Obvious). I have joined the vast legions of Watt Age Lite Stik
owners. While I like this model for indoor flying, I have not been real happy with it for
outdoor operation. I feel that it is just too sensitive to even light breezes, and getting
dead calm conditions in the greater Houston area where I live is not easy. So as they say,
the light went on. Why not try the Watt Age DX power system in the Ugly-30. A few quick
sketches later, I had a simple mount laid out that could be easily installed and removed
for further power system experiments
Lite Stick meets the Ugly-30. A happy power system
transfusion takes place.
The big 10" prop that comes with the Lite Stik made using the Ugly-30 landing gear
a bit difficult. With a hard surface runway, you could probably make it work, but I
decided to fly without the gear with this configuration. My flying site would be a soccer
field, so I would not have the smooth hard surface anyway. I have found that large props
on belly landing are not really a problem. They just swing out of the way when ground
contact is made. This was confirmed when flying the model.
To power this configuration, I used a 7 cell 150 mAh NiCad pack. The all up flying
weight for this set-up was 214 grams (7.5 ounces.)
A simple mount makes installation of the GWS power
package easy.
Lots of room next to the motor for the battery
pack.
Two screws through the bottom makes it easy to remove
the motor.
Aggressive Power System Set-up
The Ugly-30 assembly manual suggests that for electric power the Dick Miller EMPS MG-1
geared motor is a good choice. This is an excellent recommendation, and one that is very
reasonably priced. You can get all the specifics about the motor from Dick’s web site
at http://www.empsinc.com. The MG-1 motor package
includes a 7" prop that was used on the Ugly-30. Since this motor draws higher
currents than the other units being used, I increased the battery capacity to 350 mAh
cells. The limit for the MG-1 is six cells, so the flight pack was a 6 cell 350 mAh NiCad
pack.
A simple removable motor mount was also used for this power set-up. When using the
MG-1, the Ugly-30 plan calls for 3 degrees of right thrust. By using my simple removable
mount, it was real easy to attach the motor with the suggested right thrust.
For this set-up, I used the landing gear. The 7" prop has plenty of ground
clearance, and the added power would make it possible not only for ROGs, but also for
touch and go fun. The heavier motor/gear drive (42 grams - 1.5 ounces), heavier battery
pack, and landing gear brought the total flying weight up to 256 grams (9 ounces).
A simple screw-in mount makes installation of the EMPS
MG1 power package easy.
Right thrust is used with this installation and the
battery pack is moved back a bit.
Flying
Finally, here we are at the part that counts the most ... how does the Ugly-30 fly? In
a nutshell, great in all configurations tested. Not only that, this model will fly in the
wind, even in the light weight set-up. This is one nice slow fly, park fly, or just fun
flier. Depending on your specific set-up, it can be a gentle cruise around type model, or
one that will show you it’s top side as well as bottom side through reasonable
rudder/elevator maneuvers. With that in mind, let’s look at the three configurations
I chose to try.
Light Weight Set-up
I had wanted to try this particular configuration in an indoor setting. As luck would
have it, it would be several months before I would have access to my indoor flying
facility, so I had to settle on flying the light weight configuration in an outdoor
setting. My other experiences with small lightly loaded models when flown outdoors was
that wind could make them a handful to fly. Even light breezes can upset small wing span
lightly loaded models. I did want to try this set-up, though, so off to the field I went.
I did wait until evening in the hope for light, non-variable winds. It always amazing to
me to rediscover over and over again that when I set my mind to fly at a certain time,
"go fever" always kicks in no mater what my mind tells me about the conditions
at the appointed time. That was the case for the initial flights of the Ugly-30. The
evening I chose to make the initial flights was not exactly ideal. Winds were blowing
between 5 and 10 mph with the average a lot closer to 10 mph. I reasoned that the models
was light, so even if it hit the ground in an unplanned attitude, it would probably not
get hurt. Man, "go fever" does interesting things to your thought process!
As it turns out, all went very well. I was totally surprised at how well the model
handled the gusty wind conditions. The VL HY50B was no power house in this model, but it
gave me adequate power. When the wind would gust up to 10 mph and a bit above, the model
would just hover. I had no problem maintaining control, and when the gust would die a bit,
I could proceed up wind. The Ugly-30 is very easy on the controls. Even large control
inputs don’t upset the model. It seems to have all the characteristics of a good
trainer, especially in this low power configuration. Because of the wind, I had to use
full throttle for the entire flight. This limited my duration to about 2 ½ minutes. In
dead calm, or indoor conditions, the duration would easily double. It will fly on very
little power when it does not have to fight the wind. I really do want to try the light
weight set-up indoors. It sure looks like it would be a real winner.
Medium Power Set-up
As I mentioned in the description of this power set-up, I have not been real happy with
the way my Watt Age Lite Stik flies in the wind. Given how well the Ugly-30 handled the
wind when testing the VL HY50B motor configuration, I was very interested to see how well
it would perform with the GWS DX motor package from my Lite Stik.
Ready for a flight with the GWS power package. Wish the
bulging pilot could lose some excess weight to match the light weight of the Ugly-30.
Once again, the winds of Houston were upon me when it came time to make the first
flights with the GWS motor package. On this day they were blowing generally at 10 mph with
some gusts closer to 15 mph. This time I did not even hesitate. I reasoned that if the
Ugly-30 could do so well in the wind with a VL HY50B, then I should have no trouble with
the GWS set-up. Right again! The Ugly-30 with the borrowed Lite Stik power system worked
beautifully. That big 10" prop pulled her up with nice authority. The Ugly-30 just
snubbed it’s nose at the wind and proceeded to cruise around in nice circuits.
Stronger gusts would cause it to hover for a while, but like before I had no control
problems. Every now and then a gust would rock a wing tip up, but it was always easy to
crank in some counter control and have the model respond. This model definitely has no
problem flying in winds that would certainly ground other park flyers.
A second outing early in the morning finally produced some nice calm conditions. I made
a number of flights with the Ugly-30 and the GWS power package during this session. This
time I could throttle back and simply let the model cruise around. As a reminder, with
this set-up I was using a 7 cell 150 mAh NiCad battery pack. Flight times were in the 5
minute range when not helped by thermals. I did discover something about the Ugly-30
during this session that I certainly should have expected. This model was designed for a
free flight duration event. That means it was meant to find and ride thermals. It did not
take me long to see how well the Ugly-30 performs this design task. While cruising around
at reduced throttle, that neat little red and white bird would really respond the early
morning soft thermals. I was a little worried that it might be a problem getting the
Ugly-30 to come down again once it encountered a thermal, but I made another discovery.
When you chop the throttle on that big 10" GWS prop, it turns into a very effective
air brake. When I wanted to come down, I just pulled back on the throttle and the Ugly-30
would put its nose into a nice positive dive. Not too steep, but just right to break out
of the lift and get back to a comfortable altitude. Overall, the Ugly-30 using the Lite
Stik GWS DX motor package makes a very nice park flyer.
In spite of the look on the pilot's face, the
model flies right out of your hand.
Climbs out with adequate authority on the GWS power
system.
Cruising comfortably overhead.
Coming in for a gentle landing.
Aggressive Power System Set-up
Ok, so far I have been describing the Ugly-30 in terms of gentle flying, but with very
adequate wind tolerance. What if you want a little more from your park flyer. Say you want
to do some touch and go’s, an occasional loop, or in general have the airplane do
more than just fly circuits under blue skies and billowy clouds. Well my park flyer
sojourner, the Ugly-30 is just your model. Not only is it a dual-personality bird in terms
of free flight or electric R/C, in the R/C role it has a wide range of performance
possibilities.
The installation of the EMPS MG-1 motor package really lights up this bird. With the
MG-1 you now have enough power available to make the Ugly-30 do what ever a
rudder/elevator ship with landing gear is generally capable of doing. ROG is no sweat.
Loops: not a problem. Wind: can you say 15 mph with gusts? That’s right; once again I
chose a windy day to make some evaluation flights. This day was by far the worst, but I
decided to see just how far I could push this model. The wind was consistently at 15 mph
with gusts above that. With the added power of the MG-1, the Ugly-30 took these otherwise
unthinkable conditions for a park flier right in stride. She could still respond to
thermals, and gave flight durations in the 8 minute range on 350 mAh NiCad cells. I’m
simply blown away (pun intended) by the wind handling ability of the Ugly-30.
I didn't try any ROGs in the wind, but when flown on another day with calm conditions I
found the Ugly-30 handled that part of the flight envelope with no difficulty. She leapt
into the air in about 8 feet and was easy to keep tracking straight. The landing gear is a
little springy due to the rubber band retention, so you have to really be gentle when
doing touch and go flying. If you are a little heavy on the landing, you can send the nose
wheel adrift, or in general upset the landing gear. Just be easy on the approach (good
training, actually) and she will do touch and go circuits as long as your battery pack
will allow. Loops are easy from level flight, and with a little speed boost from a shallow
dive you can get her to do a rudder roll. It took me a few tries on the rudder roll bit.
It had been awhile since I had flown a model without ailerons. If you prefer to leave the
aerobatic flying to some one else, the Ugly-30 on the MG-1 power package will still
provide very relaxing circuits around the patch, or do some thermal hunting.
ROG with the MG-1 is a breeze from a smooth surface.
Enough power for rudder/elevator aerobatics - part way
through a rudder roll.
The MG-1 still allows for gentle cruising with nice
duration.
Based on the performance of the Ugly-30 at 9 ounces using the MG-1 power package,
I’m sure it could comfortably handle even more weight. The manual mentions the Speed
280 as a possible upgrade from the MG-1. That would mean more weight, but I’m sure
the model would handle it well. With so many of the Speed 280 based power systems that
have been sold, it would be a natural for the Ugly-30. There are so many possibilities for
powering this model. If you already have a slow fly model, or park flyer I’m sure you
could use almost any motor package you have on hand to send the Ugly-30 skyward. The
modest price of the kit means the only draw back in buying an Ugly-30 would be the time
needed to build the model, and that really isn’t very much.
Recommendation
Are you a person who enjoys the leisure of park flying or slow flying, but you hate
being grounded by even light winds all the time ? Do you long for the satisfaction of
building your own model, but don’t have the time or the experience? Do you love the
feel of a model that allows you to relax and enjoy watching it cruise overhead, and then
respond like a sports car when you pour on the coal? Friend, I have just what you
are looking for ... the BMJR Ugly-30.
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