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Old Aug 07, 2005, 09:20 AM
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Joined Oct 2004
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Whoops

Sorry Dave:
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Old Aug 07, 2005, 10:17 AM
Hooper, full throttle!
Tommy D's Avatar
USA, NY, East Islip
Joined Feb 2004
11,048 Posts
Look at it this way... it was a free bump
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 08:53 AM
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The Colony TX
Joined Jun 2005
201 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Winter
Hi All.

I originally wanted to do a glassing tutorial while repairing my corsair, and although the repairs turned out wonderfully, I felt it wasn't a good subject for a full fledged build and glassing thread.

So, as I wanted to build a spitfire anyway, and the LHS had the slope glider version on sale, I picked it up cheap (less than $50 CAD) and will use that as the basis for my build tutorial. This will be a powered version but I'll be using stock equipment (EDP350C with B gearing found in the powered version) that I have laying around. The power system comes from my Corsair which is being convered to Brushless.

As this is mostly a build thread and glassing tutorial, I'll be glossing over some of the minor details of building GWS specific models. If you've built more than one GWS model you'll know that the majority of their construction is the same accross their line.

Materials
- Poly Instafil lightweight spackling compound. This is available from HomeDepot, Rona, or pretty much any home supply store.
- 21 gram (.75 oz) weight fiberglass cloth purchased from hobby shop.
- Minwax, Ultra fast drying Polycrylic. I use cear semi-gloss but any colour will work.
- Various grits of sand paper from 150 to 400.

Model preparation.
Obviously GWS models are made of injection molded foam. The injection technique tends to leave marks and other imperfections on the parts. These need to be filled and sanded. The ejection pin marks are the round 'embosed' marks on the bottoms of the wings and tail surfaces. The fuselage also tends to have a large number of smaller pin marks.

Use the lightweight spackle to fill the larger pin marks. A plastic spatula or thin plastic sheet is used to level the spackle to the rest of the surface just as you would use it on the wall in your house. Let this dry overnight and then sand the whole surface down with 150 to 200 grit sandpaper. Don't worry if the GWS paint comes off (in fact it's better if it does come off).
Where do I find the Minwax polycrylic? Im not familiar with that product.
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 09:18 AM
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USA, TX, Trophy Club
Joined May 2002
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Brownwood I don't know where are are at sitnce you didn't fill out your location in your profile, but in the US you can get it at Lowes Home Depot Walmart etc.


Mike
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 01:35 PM
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The Colony TX
Joined Jun 2005
201 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pda4you
Brownwood I don't know where are are at sitnce you didn't fill out your location in your profile, but in the US you can get it at Lowes Home Depot Walmart etc.


Mike
OK, Ive got both of thosw within 2 miles of my house. I'm in that wonderful but starnge country of Texas.
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 01:36 PM
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The Colony TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownwood
OK, Ive got both of thosw within 2 miles of my house. I'm in that wonderful but starnge country of Texas.
PDA4, just realized you are in TX also. I'm in the Colony.
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 01:55 PM
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USA, TX, Trophy Club
Joined May 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownwood
PDA4, just realized you are in TX also. I'm in the Colony.
Yep I'm here...Trophy Club, we not too far apart!

Mike
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Old Nov 12, 2005, 05:57 AM
Houng-wen Lin
GWS4CEO's Avatar
Shijr, Taiwan. DungGwan, China. City of Industry, California.
Joined Sep 2001
19,445 Posts
GWS respect you put so much effert on our airplanes.

What I can say?

GWS respect you put so much effert on our airplanes.
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Old Nov 12, 2005, 07:40 AM
know it all
Miami, Fl
Joined Nov 2003
2,949 Posts
really not that much effort, and it does not add that much weight either, about 30 grams to my Me-109, another 10 grams for paint. Results in a much stronger and better looking plane.

I am building a 70" wingspan foamie A-26 twin, will be powered by about 1000 watts.. my idea is to build it like a giant GWS foamie.

Hopefully the new formosa II will be a success and you will start offering larger warbirds.

Herm

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWS4CEO
What I can say?

GWS respect you put so much effert on our airplanes.
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Old Nov 12, 2005, 09:21 AM
Excellence is Expected
MakMov's Avatar
Aurora, Colorado
Joined Nov 2005
3,736 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pda4you
Well you asked.....

I start with the unpainted bird and sand carfully in one direction. I use the super light weight spackle stuff to fill in every dent and ding and mold marks. I start with 220grit and then finally to 400 and then 600 grit.

I use .5oz cloth (usually) although .75 is OK. I use very light coats of WBPU - even on the first coat. I can't tell how much you are using as mine are usually raw white foam and I can't see the white like you can. But I use just enough on the first coat to barely saturate the cloth.

I sand only after 24 hours of drying. I use the 220 careful to just start raising the hairs on the fiber. I do another coat, as thin as I can. Sand after 24hours. Then another coat sand with 400 grit, then a super light coat and final sanding with 600.

I don't wrap the cloth over the TE of the surfaces. Make sure they get plenty of WBPU to seal the foam.

Make sure the WBPU goes past the surface being covered then the sandpaper cuts right through it (no knife cutting necessary!). This is due to the overlapped WBPU that is now dry allowing the sandpaper to cut it...

So I use 4 coats of WBPU - all as thin as possible. In my GWS spit I added just shy of 2oz. Not too bad.

Mike

Almost verbatem how I do mine.
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Old Nov 21, 2005, 12:32 AM
Fly it like you stole it..
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Florence, Al
Joined Oct 2000
29,298 Posts
Spacemanspiff and David - those are two beautiful Spits!!!
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Old Dec 10, 2005, 10:24 AM
Meh, it'll still fly.
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
1,155 Posts
Guys, just wondering on the amount of coats for glassing. Everyone seems to be going with a minimum of 3 coats. why not just 1 or 2? Is it not strong enough? or Does the added weight of 2 not weigh out the strength benefits?
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Old Dec 10, 2005, 12:39 PM
'Riders fan.
David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
1,165 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_eflyer
Guys, just wondering on the amount of coats for glassing. Everyone seems to be going with a minimum of 3 coats. why not just 1 or 2? Is it not strong enough? or Does the added weight of 2 not weigh out the strength benefits?
I've found that 2 coats doesn't give me the finish I like. I use fairly light coats but the difference in weight between 2 and 3 coats is miniscule.
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Old Dec 10, 2005, 03:38 PM
Meh, it'll still fly.
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
1,155 Posts
SHould I cut the ailerons and elevator out now or after? I've got everything sanded down.. and ready to go.
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Old Dec 10, 2005, 04:01 PM
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
1,165 Posts
I glass the whole model, then cut away the control surfaces. That way everything covered and glassed and there is a nice even surface. But it's intirely up to you.

A hot knife, as described in the tutorial, works best for me.
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