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Old May 18, 2005, 08:58 AM
Making gravity dramatic
AugerIn_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Peshtigo
Joined Sep 2004
212 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pda4you
Brad - I use the 2015 so maybe that is why you didn't need to add any weight. I must have got a little carried away on the tail feathers!

Mike
Mike-

Even so, your plane looks incredible and is well worth the added weight. Very nice job.

Initially I wasn't too thrilled with the glassing - added weight but very little protection from the rougher dings. Since I've been flying it so much I've really come to appreciate the glass more and more. It may not protect against more extreme damage (what does? lol) but it does its job adequately and creates a very smooth painting surface for an awesome finish - only wish my painting skills were worth a hoot

-Brad
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Old May 18, 2005, 09:08 AM
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pda4you's Avatar
USA, TX, Trophy Club
Joined May 2002
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Quote:
It may not protect against more extreme damage (what does? lol)
Actually it does. My friend and I did first flights together - he had the me109 and I the spit. Did our first flights all was well. Both were glassed. He took his wing off to fix is loose motor, and forgot to plug in the aileron again. He didn't check the controls before the next flight.

It took off perfectly on that second flight and he didn't notice till it was 70-80ft high when he started the turn that there was no control. He used rudder to circle the field (amazing he got it around) and then it banked too much and spun in from about 100 feet.

He was sure it would be gone as it went in at about a 60 degree angle. Wing fine, tail feathers fine, slight mushing of the fuse from the wing forward. It took him less than an hour to fix, fill and repaint!

Much stronger indeed.

Mike
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Old May 18, 2005, 10:18 AM
Permaculture de NEW Technology
Rondog's Avatar
Southern Socialist Republic of Commiefornia
Joined Dec 2002
1,256 Posts
I've done something quite different but I thought I'd share. I channeled a groove in the leading edge of the control surfaces and affixed a small bead of epoxy leaving about 2mm of control surface lip exposed on the inside. Mask tape the CS to the plane. Use a paperclip as a spacer for distance. Then silicone the hinge together from the inside and let dry for 3 full days. The joint is really strong and in a crash, usually the control surface will not break but will get ripped off, and reattachment is just a simple process of siliconing on again.

Nice thread David.

Keep up the great work.

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Old May 18, 2005, 10:55 AM
Uh Oh Jungo
ParkJeff's Avatar
Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Feb 2003
773 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pda4you
Jeff I personally leave the LE and TE of surfaces with no glass, but I do seal them with WBPU. That way the paint looks better. I do cover the wing LE as it gets a lot of abuse and the glass helps with that.
Mike,

Thanks for that.

Jeff
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Old May 18, 2005, 11:01 AM
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David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
1,165 Posts
Jeff

I use a roll over method to seal the bare edges of control surfaces. When I use a hot knife to cut the control surfaces off the main part, small 'flaps' of glass material are left behind. I use a household iron, set to low heat, to seal those flaps to the foam. I think there is a photo in there that shows the leading edges of the stab being ironed. It's the same principle.

Oh, and thanks for your comments on the thread. One of the reasons I created this is because when I was trying to glass my Corsair I found the same thing you did. People glossing over the important part and assuming other modellers knew what they were talking about. Now we know what they're talking about
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Old May 18, 2005, 06:48 PM
know it all
Miami, Fl
Joined Nov 2003
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I start with a white slope guider, mr GWS has said that the factory paint can add around 40grams.

I only sand it a bit with a flexible rubber foam norton sanding pad, fill in the imperfections and foam grain with the lightweight spackle you used. I prefer to cover the control surfaces separate from the rest of the plane and I overlap the glass over the edges wet.. I use a small hair brush and apply a medium coat of the flat minxwax, only one coat. I apply a second layer of glass over the leading edge for mid air crash survivability .

Yes, there will be spots where the glass is not filled, but you have to be about 1ft away from the plane to see it. I paint it with thin coats of walmart acrylics, diluted with water, with an airbrush.. very easy on the paint since colored paint is heavy.. apply self-printed water slide decals, and seal the whole plane with an airbrushed coat of minwax. You should fill all the panel lines molded in at the gws factory, they dont look good. The glass job, not including paint added 30grams of weight to the plane.

The ME-109 I did this way weighs 13.8oz ready to fly, with a 3s 860 tanic lipo pack and a himax 2015-5400 geared motor, flys like a devil and cannot be stalled. no landing gear and no rudder. Here are some pictures taken by a friend.

Glassing makes it a very tough plane, I have dorked mine in several times with very little damage (ripped off wing mounting bolt, damaged motor, twice, a few scratches on the chin etc. It makes the control sufaces very rigid and slop free, and it gives you a decent surface to paint, not that nasty looking foam.. very worthwhile.

Herm

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Winter
I'd be curious to know how my technique differs from others.
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Old May 18, 2005, 07:39 PM
Uh Oh Jungo
ParkJeff's Avatar
Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Feb 2003
773 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Winter
I use a roll over method to seal the bare edges of control surfaces.
Thanks for the reply David. It's really cleared up a lot of things for me.

Love the colour scheme you have chosen. Someday I hope to do a Spit in Aussie colours. Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Jeff
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Old May 18, 2005, 09:42 PM
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David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
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The Spitfire after painting.

Sky Grey was used for the under portion, Dark Grey and Dark Green used for the top. I over thinned the green and so it turned out a bit blotchy. I have since gone over it with a second light coat to get rid of that and to clean up some other little issues with the camoflage pattern that were not quite correct. The canopy is just resting on the model for the photo. I still have to detail the cockpit and paint the canopy.

Next up for are RAF/RCAF markings, the invasion stripes, and panel lines.
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Old May 18, 2005, 09:44 PM
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David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
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Oh yes.. one other note on the construction. I've left off all the underbelly details. Although I was really tempted to put on the starboard side scope and scratch build the port side (contrary to the kit, the scoops are different sizes) I do belly land in grass and those details would simply be ripped off the model.
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Old May 20, 2005, 03:10 PM
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
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A few other photos of the model being painted out. I'm using a combination of PolyScale acrylics and Tamyia acrylics.

Image 1 shows the masking for the yellow leading edge applied.

Image 2 shows the yellow leading edge and the white for the invasion stripes applied.

Image 3 shows the wing masked out for the application of the black portion of the wing invasion stripes. This is why I keep the plastic backs from the kit. They make fantastic masking bags.
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Old May 20, 2005, 03:41 PM
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Oh.. and if anyone has any idea of the purpose of invasion stripes I'd like to hear it. It seems strange to me that you'd take a low visibility aircraft and paint big, bold, black & white stripes on it.. might as well paint it pink with a big target on the wings.
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Old May 20, 2005, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Winter
Oh.. and if anyone has any idea of the purpose of invasion stripes I'd like to hear it. It seems strange to me that you'd take a low visibility aircraft and paint big, bold, black & white stripes on it.. might as well paint it pink with a big target on the wings.

Very simple. D-day Biggest invasion in history, biggest battle! Lots of aircraft flying around shooting. Lots of ships just standing in the water off Normandy with very nervous sailors manning the guns. Do you think you will have the time to tell a Mustang from a ME-109 at 1000ft out before everyone opens up on everyone else?! Probably not. But big black and white stripes on planes were a very good way to annonunce "Friendly, don;t shoot!"

Cheers,
J

PS. Great looking Spit so far. Just please don't put the GWS roundels on it. Shame to ruin such a bird!
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Old May 20, 2005, 04:21 PM
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David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
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Thanks.. sort of what I figured.

Your spit looks great. What did you use for lettering and the fuselage roundel?
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Old May 20, 2005, 04:26 PM
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Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Winter
Thanks.. sort of what I figured.

Your spit looks great. What did you use for lettering and the fuselage roundel?
Funny, I was just writing an edit to my post. The roundels are master Decals 1/12 WWII RAF set. The SQ codes were home made by spraying Sky type S on decal paper and cutting out.
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Old May 20, 2005, 04:29 PM
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David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
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Thanks.. I also noticed you have the underbelly details. Any problems with them getting pulled off during belly landings?
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