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Old May 11, 2005, 09:13 AM
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How to attach the ESC to the motor?

So I'm basically done with my Miniflash and I'm just waiting for my Dean's Ultra connectors to get here so I can wire everything up. Obviously I wire one set of connectors to the battery and ESC, but the thing I'm struggling with is how to wire up the motor to the esc. The GWS EPS motors all come with that simplistic looking connector and the thinnish wire leads (is that 18awg?)

Anyway, I don't really want to solder the ESC directly to the motor because I want to be able to remove the parts, but it seems sort of silly to solder a deans ultra connector onto those thin wire leads off the EPS 300. It seemed like it would make sense to simply buy some 14awg (that's the thicker stuff right?) wire from radio shack or whatever and solder that to the motor and then connect to the ESC with deans, but the motor leads actually have some sort of odd plastic looking melted goo on them and I don't know what to do with it.

I'm also convinced that even if I remove the goo and solder some new wire to the motor that I'll screw up the capacitors and wreck it. So my question is, can the thin wire handle the current of an EPS 300C-D with a 12x6 prop attached to a 9.6v Kan 650?


Also...assuming I go ahead and resolder the motor leads, the the ESC came with a diode of some sort...should I attach this to the motor? How much is it going to help?
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Old May 11, 2005, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
can the thin wire handle the current of an EPS 300C-D with a 12x6 prop attached to a 9.6v Kan 650?
Yes. There is a little loss, but not too much. I would be worried about burning the motor, though. If memory serves, EPS300C-D normally used two LiPoly (7.5V) for a 12-6 or 12-8 prop. Is that what the instructions say?

If you want to connectorize the motor, Deans mini connectors work well. They are good to 10A.

The diode is a noise suppression diode. It's black with a white band on one end, right?For 300C motors they aren't neccesary, unless you run into problems. I use them on Speed 400 or bigger motors, or when there is a long motor wire. If you solder one on, put the side with the band on the "plus" side of the motor leads, and the other on the negative side. You need a voltmeter to find out which side is plus, although many controllers just run the negative (black) battery wire straight through to the motor. You can sometimes see the two wires soldered together. Putting it on backwards will smoke the diode the first time you turn the ESC on, so I would probably leave it off.

-- Val
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Old May 11, 2005, 09:33 AM
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I cant really answer many of your questions for ya, but jsut saw something i thought i might bring up. If i read that right, you are useing deans ultra connectors to connect the battery to the esc, and you are also thinking about useing a deans to connect the motor to the esc???
I dont see how that could in any way be smart(maybe it is and i just dont see it). I would think that would make it too easy to plug things in backwards.
Im not sure what would happen if you plugged the battery into teh motor side of the esc, but i can't imagine it would be good for the electronics, and haveing deans on both sides of the esc makes that possible.
I would reccomend useing some kind of connector other than what you typically use for your batteries. Again, i dont know what to recommend to solve teh problem, just wanted to point out the possible error in the solution you were considering.
MHF
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Old May 11, 2005, 09:51 AM
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Bullet connectors. Or those two pronged Kavan connectors. Heck, you could use cheapie auto stereo connectors. They are even insulated!
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Old May 11, 2005, 10:01 AM
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Hrm. That's a good point about mixing up the battery and the motor ends. Of course, I could always reverse the male/femaleness so that it would be impossible to connect them wrong.

Meaning that the battery traditionally has the female plug on it and the esc has the male plug. If I solder the female plug onto the motor end of the esc then there would be no way to misconnect them...I think.
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Old May 11, 2005, 12:24 PM
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I just left my ESC plugged into my motor, so the only connection that I take apart is the battery/ESC connection.

So when I plug in the battery, there's only one place to put it.

Now, if I could only get a chance to fly the thing a second time. And during the DAY this time!

Jason
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Old May 11, 2005, 08:21 PM
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Aftermarket connectors need to be soldered, so why not just solder the ESC directly to the motor. It is a simple matter to UN-solder the leads from the motor if replacement is ever needed.

I always use a polarized connector from the battery to ESC. Simple, no brainer connection so I can't plug it in backwards accidentally. Deans polarized micro (2R/2B) connectors up to 10A, Ultra Plugs for over 10A.
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Old May 11, 2005, 08:35 PM
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Fine if you have an ESC for every plane. Or never trash a Slo Stick GB and need to change it out in the field. Connectors are cheap and efficient.
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Old May 12, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rutat
Fine if you have an ESC for every plane.
I do, doesn't everyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rutat
Or never trash a Slo Stick GB and need to change it out in the field.
5 minutes tops to R & R a shaft and/or spur gear in the plane.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rutat
Connectors are cheap and efficient.
True, but there are other reasons I prefer to solder direct.

1) 2 solder joints vs 4 (minor issue).

2) Keeps the ESC closer to the motor and away from the RX.

3) I like my wiring as short and neat as possible.

4) Soldering direct is lighter than plugs (every gram counts).

Connectors are easy if everything matches up out of the box. But, many times this is not the case, so for me it's just easier to solder direct.

Steven
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Old May 12, 2005, 01:07 PM
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Well in the beginner section I'm not sure everyone has 20-50 bucks for ESCs. It takes ohh... about 30 seconds to swap a motor and gear box and keep flying. And if it is a motor issue, where does one get the electricity for a soldering iron. As I build up my supply of ESCs, rxes etc. it is clear that soldering direct is the way to go. But if you want to swap out a 350 for a 400 soldered connections are a PITA. YMMV.
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