|May 10, 2005, 05:14 PM|
DARE's new M-5 build thread
This is it A Macchi M-5
An Italian float plane fighter.
This must be how they got around the "shooting up the prop" problem.
Mike Midkiff gave me the plans and said have a good time, I did!
Just so you don't have to go through pages after pages.
I'll put the build right up front with the tips and lessons I learned along the way.
Don't forget I had no instructions, just the plans so my approach might be different than Mikes.
I went full house controls, all pull pull spider wire.
Stock IPS "A" drive motor/gearbox.
I'm using a two cell lipoly. and a 555 receiver.
Weight without the battery is 10.oz
|May 10, 2005, 05:16 PM|
I'm going to skip over how to do the fuselage, it was very easy.
Flat panels and formers.
The only tricky part is the forward hull, take your time and you will get through it.
The difference mine has is the formers are framed up from sticks, I needed an open fuselage to allow the control lines to pass through.
Before you build the top of the fuselage make a stand like the one in the photo.
You will use it over and over.
The stand should make the datum line ( top of the fuselage) level with the building surface.
The contact points shown are flat and easy to set up.
Make a nice one because it will be used as a display stand when you are finished.
The photo also shows how I used flat balsa panels to locate and hold the motor mount plate while the epoxy set up.
|May 10, 2005, 05:18 PM|
Rigging the top and bottom wing has to be the biggest pain in the . . . . .
I used coveright because I wanted it to be a tough water tight model.
The wings were designed to be covered with tissue. Nelson film would have been easier but I pressed on with the heavier stuff.
The bottom wings warped but straightened right out when the other side was covered.
What a relief.
The problem is the top wing gets rigged with no covering on the top.
I built a swing set looking truss and used tape to keep the wing straight.
I also used a four pieces of copper house wire to make the splice in the tubing that supports the top wing.
way easier to bend than the aluminum tubing.
So here was the sequence.
Bond the lower wing in place with 4 degrees incidence and 90 degrees to the fuselage side.
Install the landing stress wire.
Place the wing on the center support tubes through the holes. Adjust it so it's centered, 2 degrees and 1/4 dihedral angle. Bond and don't touch until it sets.
Install the wing struts and match the 2 degrees and bond. install the flying wires.
Install the outboard strut tubing.
The wings are now rock solid. Remove the truss.
|May 10, 2005, 05:20 PM|
You can see the aileron servo mounted here.
and if you look close you can see the yellow "wire guide"
The blue thing is a whip antenna.
I had no other choice I hate seeing the antennas on my models.
|May 10, 2005, 05:23 PM|
Mike came to me a few months ago wanting a dummy engine for the kit.
I had to jump on the project and this is how it turned out.
There will be instructions in the kits on the motor construction.
do your test fits before the top wing is installed!
I'm glad I did because its such a close fit that when you bond the aft end together you are done.
No need to bond the dummy engine to the mount plate.
I did this for engine servicing purposes.
|May 10, 2005, 05:24 PM|
My model has a carbon rod just incase I need a water rudder. I really don't think it will need it because she scoots across the kitchen floor and I can steer her around the table.
Can't wait for the wind to stop blowing so I can give it a try.
The test flight will be over fluffy grass; then it's off to the pond to see if she will do what she was built for.
This makes 160 RC planes I've built and flown.
The "A" means it's my first Macchi M-5
|May 20, 2005, 09:20 PM|
Good news / bad news
the good news it flew. The bad news is it's underpowered.
There was a breeze of about 2 mph over the field. When my air speed bled off from my partners throw the decent began. Slowly but still not climbing.
By the time she was going with the wind I was loosing control surface inputs.
The ailerons were useless because of the slow air speed. The rudder saved the model.
She stalled and went into a dive at 8 ft. if it had been 10 I would have had a smooth landing.
She found the only rock in the whole field, A little one but not so small it didn't hurt her.
The float popped off too.
She flew, control throws are the right travel distance, CG is correct and she will fly very slow.
I did some float testing too. She handles smooth water just fine. No water over the nose, the rudder is effective enough not to need a water rudder and with more power I'd bet she would fly off of the water.
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