There was a little interest in a build thread on the Longshot, http://www.hobbyclub.com/HC-LongShot.htm, so I'm going to take a whack at one. Here's the first pic showing the kit contents plus the flight gear, two dymond 60 servos, FMA receiver, and RX battery. Further pics to follow as things develop.

Nice. What's the projected AUW? What other servos are you using besides D60s?

Ok, I actually made a tiny bit of progress. This shows the hole for the aileron servos cut into the top of the fuse. I used a dremel.

The next shot is of a hole I drilled for the ends of the slots that are cut in the boom for the vertical stab. The instructions called for square corners here, but I was concerned about high stress concentrations.

Next is the completed slot. Scary stuff for a first timer, cutting into that boom.

The next is of the servo tray with two hitec 55's.

Finally, a shot of the tray in the fuse. No mention is made in the instructions to be sure that you can get the battery into the front with the tray in place. I almost had it glued in before I checked and moved it back a bit.

AUW is listed at 10 oz on the website. I don't have a scale, so I have no idea how close I am at this moment.

Final pic for the day is the canopy. Wire is used for a latch, and is epoxied in place with CF cloth.

I'm soon going to need some help with details for push rods and housings for the R/E. I hear .015 dia music wire and a teflon sheath. What's the preferred connection from the wire to the servo arm?

Originally Posted by Tim K

I'm soon going to need some help with details for push rods and housings for the R/E. I hear .015 dia music wire and a teflon sheath.

This size pushrod needs to be fully supported everywhere, so put the pushrods outside the boom. If the housings are plain teflon, then light tape works OK. For etched (bondable) teflon, CA works extremely well.

Mark,

Thanks. I need to find a source for the teflon here soon, and I'll have to figure out where the pushrods should exit the fuse.

Tim: Thank you very much for the build thread. Iam also planning on purchasing a Long Shot so this helps alot. Today in Tucson,Az. there was a hlg contest and saw a long shot. the plane used a pull-pull set up for R/E. Go to www.tailboom.com to find a source for teflon and .o18 wire. Dave

Tim,

If it turns out to be useful, I put 4 - 350 maH NiMH in the canopy along with a jack switch. Leaves lots of room for receiver and altimeter in front of the servos. Wiring is all nicely compact in the canopy and removes completely from the plane easily for access.

Still needed very little nose weight (AUW 11 oz.) in spite of moving the battery weight aft.

You will have to clear (packing) tape the canopy to take the launch but with a switch jack it never needs to be opened.

I use an altimeter and brought the data port out to the canopy also.

Alternately, you could put the altimeter in the canopy.

Lots of fun design things to do in DLGs.

Boomer

Tailboom seems to be out of stock on the teflon tubing, or at least that's what the website says. Any other sources for this stuff?

Call him. He was out of #22 on the web-site but had #23.

Keep going Tim Looks good so far. I am looking into this airplane myself!
Don

I am building one right now.

Just want to point out that the boom dosen't come in the correct length. you have to cut it down to 640mm. I saw the note on the plans just after putting the fin and stab on... :/ frustrating..

Henrick,

I'm going to go look at the boom as soon as I'm done here. Very frustrating.

Anyhow, didn't get much done today (all day spend building a kitchen island for a customer) but I did get the wings glued together. Here's a pic.

Will check into the tubing Bomeara, thanks.

"Frustrating" was a good word when I was just worried that the boom was too long and that I had wasted the 45-60 minutes slotting the end. "Pissed" is a much better word now that I have confirmed that the boom is too long and that I wasted 45-60 minutes slotting the end because no mention of this fact is made in the instructions!

Scathing e-mail to the manufacturer is on it's way.

Big thanks to Henrick for not letting me get any farther in the construction process. I might never have noticed the problem without your pointing it out. Thanks again.

No problem. While I’m at it I can let you know that the recommended method of putting the carbon reinforcements on is not very good. The tape didn’t release from the cured epoxy at all. I had to scrape it of with a razorblade and then wipe of the adhesive with methanol.