The Ultimate Slow Stick Help Thread Part 8

boomerace · Apr 27, 2005, 01:02 PM

OK Time for a new Thread
Links to previous threads
Part 1
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=122951
Part 2
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...15#post1502315
Part 3
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...61&postcount=1
Part 4
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219399
Part 5
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235707
Part 6
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274907
Part 7
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325209
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com

Daniel G · Apr 27, 2005, 08:35 PM

Boomer you are right about those rods being black fiberglass.
I just took a quick look and thought "carbon fiber."

Oh well.

omba · Apr 27, 2005, 10:17 PM

In case you missed the end of the last thread, would anyone care to help me out here?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

omba · Apr 27, 2005, 10:23 PM

Got another one of those newbie questions ...

I have read a lot about thrust angles. Is there a gadget/device that helps accurately measure this, or do you folks use a protractor and reams of paper?

Thanks again,
Peter

Jason Paul · Apr 27, 2005, 10:37 PM

I can't help with your question from the last thread, but on the thrust angle mod - have you looked at the one you bought yet?

I just got a Slow Stick a couple of weeks ago and it already has a slight bend in it. I'm not sure of the angle - it's slight, but noticeable. I just built the plane up so the motor is down and right.

I haven't finished it yet though, so I haven't flown it.

Jason

boomerace · Apr 28, 2005, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by omba

In case you missed the end of the last thread, would anyone care to help me out here?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

Peter didn't you get my PM???
boomer

CRASHED AGAIN · Apr 28, 2005, 01:16 AM

OMBA Peter ++++ check this out for the thrust angle

Reliable method to give your SlowStick down right thrust
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111231

I haven't done it yet, but seems like a NEAT WAY to do it..

I have built attachments to slip over the end of the fuse stick to change the angles.. However === I have seen a number of posts that say it is not necessary to do anything except mount the gear box on the end of the fuse.. Soooooo one of these days soon I'm going to try that..

Boomer, you have done different things to change the thrust angle, do you now think that any of that is necessary ???

Jack

DWA · Apr 28, 2005, 02:29 AM

Wow Boomer 12,292 post!! thats a lot o posts!!!
I just bought a slow stick and i want to go brushless li-po. Main goal is to keep it light and get long flight duration. Can you suggest anything?
Thanks

Martijn Kaandorp · Apr 28, 2005, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Paul

I can't help with your question from the last thread, but on the thrust angle mod - have you looked at the one you bought yet?

I just got a Slow Stick a couple of weeks ago and it already has a slight bend in it. I'm not sure of the angle - it's slight, but noticeable. I just built the plane up so the motor is down and right.

I haven't finished it yet though, so I haven't flown it.

Jason

I would suggest the wooden version of the stick. It is a cheap replacement, strong, lighter than aluminium and does not (permanently) bend. Breaking of the stick during impact might even funtion as damage control.

Ron H · Apr 28, 2005, 09:41 AM

I really like this combo on the SS. http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/motor...ductId=U163570
On 2s using a 1260 it puts out 20oz thrust, and will have some vertical with 6,7, or 8 round cells with no need to change props.

Using 3s thrust jumps to 27oz using an 1147. With this prop it does okay on 2s also, but the round ones seem lame here. AUW with 3s and this combo is 14-1/2oz, so the climb rate is pretty good.

Mine is mounted in a GWS 6.6:1 gearbox with the spur gear Ca'd to the shaft. If this isn't done, it may strip the first time I go WOT.

More powerful systems are often used but I can't see the justification. This setup draws 10a max, but full throttle is never needed. A no roll take off followed by a vertical climb to just visible altitude is fun though. I can haul a 12oz load and still be over 1:1.

The 10 amp limit is an important point. This allows use of lighter and cheaper packs, and $ is always a concern for me. Being able to use all my other packs was a bonus.

Jason Paul · Apr 28, 2005, 10:23 AM

Martijn,

I meant that it already had the slight curve from the factory. I did put balsa in the fuse (front 12"-14" or so) to add some strength. I do get your point though.

Ron,

Being new, I know nothing about brushless motors, but that looks like a lot more affordable setup than what I've seen. I can't do it now, but if I were to get that setup, it would work OK with my KAN 1050 7-cells? What about the stock 1180 prop? Any idea on runtime with these batteries? I'm new and not ready to go Lipo yet.

Also, just a general question along these lines - will a brushless motor get a longer runtime than a similarly-sized brushed motor using the same battery pack? It seems that they'd be more efficient, so they'd last longer.

Thanks,
Jason

rutat · Apr 28, 2005, 10:33 AM

On your last question, yes.

Ron H · Apr 28, 2005, 11:40 AM

It will have very good performance on a freshly charged 7c 1050 pack. Enough to pull up into a loop while inverted. The change is astonishing even with the same packs. Run time can be lower or higher depending on throttle usage.
If you fly it like it will stock, run times will nearly double. Because it's now 1oz lighter you could fly even slower. But when power is available it gets used, so flight times only go up a bit. WOT flight with 7c1100's was measured at 11min. Back off the throttle and 1/2 hour is easy, which brings up another good point about the motors.

Brushed motors become more efficient at low amps. Brushless motors are all inefficient at lower amp draws and voltages than they are designed for. A motor designed for 15 amps will do okay at 10 but poor at 5. This makes it very important to select a motor that will do the job, but is't too powerfull.

This motor will nearly double the output power with just a few more amps in and the pack is fine. It is also more efficient than a 300 down to @4 amps, so you get long flights and more power. My avatar shot was taken before I got lipolys.

rutat · Apr 28, 2005, 11:55 AM

Another thing to consider is using the 350 motor - basically a timed 300. More efficient. The issue with brushless is overall cost - motor and ESC.

Ron H · Apr 28, 2005, 12:32 PM

Nothing against a 350, but the motor I listed is nearly 2x strong at the same amp draw. And it doesn't ever need to be replaced unless you crash hard. How hard is hard?

Mine lost the elevator at over 100ft due to poor gluing. Straight down all the way, little time to react. Full bore starting the dive, and some frantic wiggling of the sticks (to no avail) it wound up a lawn dart up to the wing. Gearbox exploded on impact, but the motor was intact. Hundreds of GB pieces, one motor still in use.

Apr 27, 2005, 01:02 PM	#1
boomerace Been There! Done That! Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Eugene, Oregon, United States Posts: 19,187	The Ultimate Slow Stick Help Thread Part 8 OK Time for a new Thread Links to previous threads Part 1 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=122951 Part 2 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...15#post1502315 Part 3 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...61&postcount=1 Part 4 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219399 Part 5 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235707 Part 6 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274907 Part 7 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325209 boomer www.boomerseflight.com Last edited by boomerace; Aug 16, 2005 at 12:48 PM. Reason: Fixed Links

Apr 27, 2005, 10:17 PM	#3
omba Space Cowboy Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Flagler Beach, FL Posts: 435	Redundant In case you missed the end of the last thread, would anyone care to help me out here? Thanks in advance, Peter

Apr 27, 2005, 10:23 PM	#4
omba Space Cowboy Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Flagler Beach, FL Posts: 435	Thrust Angle Got another one of those newbie questions ... I have read a lot about thrust angles. Is there a gadget/device that helps accurately measure this, or do you folks use a protractor and reams of paper? Thanks again, Peter

Apr 28, 2005, 11:40 AM	#13
Ron H Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Bishopville S.C. Posts: 2,810	It will have very good performance on a freshly charged 7c 1050 pack. Enough to pull up into a loop while inverted. The change is astonishing even with the same packs. Run time can be lower or higher depending on throttle usage. If you fly it like it will stock, run times will nearly double. Because it's now 1oz lighter you could fly even slower. But when power is available it gets used, so flight times only go up a bit. WOT flight with 7c1100's was measured at 11min. Back off the throttle and 1/2 hour is easy, which brings up another good point about the motors. Brushed motors become more efficient at low amps. Brushless motors are all inefficient at lower amp draws and voltages than they are designed for. A motor designed for 15 amps will do okay at 10 but poor at 5. This makes it very important to select a motor that will do the job, but is't too powerfull. This motor will nearly double the output power with just a few more amps in and the pack is fine. It is also more efficient than a 300 down to @4 amps, so you get long flights and more power. My avatar shot was taken before I got lipolys. Last edited by Ron H; Apr 28, 2005 at 11:51 AM.

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Apr 27, 2005, 08:35 PM	#2
Daniel G It's been a while. Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Irvine, CA Posts: 2,692	Boomer you are right about those rods being black fiberglass. I just took a quick look and thought "carbon fiber." Oh well.

Apr 27, 2005, 10:37 PM	#5
Jason Paul Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 566	I can't help with your question from the last thread, but on the thrust angle mod - have you looked at the one you bought yet? I just got a Slow Stick a couple of weeks ago and it already has a slight bend in it. I'm not sure of the angle - it's slight, but noticeable. I just built the plane up so the motor is down and right. I haven't finished it yet though, so I haven't flown it. Jason

Apr 28, 2005, 01:16 AM	#7
CRASHED AGAIN Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tenino WA. Posts: 1,195	OMBA Peter ++++ check this out for the thrust angle Reliable method to give your SlowStick down right thrust http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111231 I haven't done it yet, but seems like a NEAT WAY to do it.. I have built attachments to slip over the end of the fuse stick to change the angles.. However === I have seen a number of posts that say it is not necessary to do anything except mount the gear box on the end of the fuse.. Soooooo one of these days soon I'm going to try that.. Boomer, you have done different things to change the thrust angle, do you now think that any of that is necessary ??? Jack

Apr 28, 2005, 02:29 AM	#8
DWA Check the Blog… Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,659	Wow Boomer 12,292 post!! thats a lot o posts!!! I just bought a slow stick and i want to go brushless li-po. Main goal is to keep it light and get long flight duration. Can you suggest anything? Thanks

Apr 28, 2005, 09:41 AM	#10
Ron H Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Bishopville S.C. Posts: 2,810	I really like this combo on the SS. http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/motor...ductId=U163570 On 2s using a 1260 it puts out 20oz thrust, and will have some vertical with 6,7, or 8 round cells with no need to change props. Using 3s thrust jumps to 27oz using an 1147. With this prop it does okay on 2s also, but the round ones seem lame here. AUW with 3s and this combo is 14-1/2oz, so the climb rate is pretty good. Mine is mounted in a GWS 6.6:1 gearbox with the spur gear Ca'd to the shaft. If this isn't done, it may strip the first time I go WOT. More powerful systems are often used but I can't see the justification. This setup draws 10a max, but full throttle is never needed. A no roll take off followed by a vertical climb to just visible altitude is fun though. I can haul a 12oz load and still be over 1:1. The 10 amp limit is an important point. This allows use of lighter and cheaper packs, and $ is always a concern for me. Being able to use all my other packs was a bonus.

Apr 28, 2005, 10:23 AM	#11
Jason Paul Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 566	Martijn, I meant that it already had the slight curve from the factory. I did put balsa in the fuse (front 12"-14" or so) to add some strength. I do get your point though. Ron, Being new, I know nothing about brushless motors, but that looks like a lot more affordable setup than what I've seen. I can't do it now, but if I were to get that setup, it would work OK with my KAN 1050 7-cells? What about the stock 1180 prop? Any idea on runtime with these batteries? I'm new and not ready to go Lipo yet. Also, just a general question along these lines - will a brushless motor get a longer runtime than a similarly-sized brushed motor using the same battery pack? It seems that they'd be more efficient, so they'd last longer. Thanks, Jason

Apr 28, 2005, 10:33 AM	#12
rutat Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 5,236	On your last question, yes.

Apr 28, 2005, 11:55 AM	#14
rutat Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 5,236	Another thing to consider is using the 350 motor - basically a timed 300. More efficient. The issue with brushless is overall cost - motor and ESC.

Apr 28, 2005, 12:32 PM	#15
Ron H Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Bishopville S.C. Posts: 2,810	Nothing against a 350, but the motor I listed is nearly 2x strong at the same amp draw. And it doesn't ever need to be replaced unless you crash hard. How hard is hard? Mine lost the elevator at over 100ft due to poor gluing. Straight down all the way, little time to react. Full bore starting the dive, and some frantic wiggling of the sticks (to no avail) it wound up a lawn dart up to the wing. Gearbox exploded on impact, but the motor was intact. Hundreds of GB pieces, one motor still in use.