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Old Apr 29, 2005, 02:08 PM
iPhly R/C with iPhone
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Silicon Valley, Calif
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Piloting recommendations

General handling: Slow-G handles very much like a 3-channel airplane. While I would not recommend it as a first model, a pilot who mastered a Slow Stick should have few problems flying a Slow-G. Slow-G is stable and will fly hands-off in calm air, but is not as stable as a Slow Stick. It flies slower, both in terms of minimum and maximum speed. It will not stall in the airplane sense, but you must maintain some forward airspeed, or the control surfaces will become ineffective.

Prop: The right prop can make all the difference in performance, especially with a brushed motor. I recommend GWS 1180 propeller if using stock EPS-C drive. With this gearbox/prop combination, Slow-G will fly at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. By comparison, 1047 will require full throttle all the time and you'll be fighting for altitude. I have not tested the model with brushless setups, and I do not feel that a brushless motor is required. However, I would like to hear about your experiences if you do try that.

First time at the flying field: Choose a calm day for your first flight. Don't fly in any wind you'd consider marginal for a Slow Stick (and I mean a stock one, with unclipped wings and without the 3 pounds of photo equipment you hang on yours), certainly not on the first flight.

Hold the model in your hand facing into the wind and note how the rotors spin up. Rotor blades are light and delicate but develop tremendous lift at high angles of attack against strong relative wind. If the wind is strong, you may find that the model literally wants to fly out of your hands, and you may see the blades bend up. Don't panic. Lower the model's nose below horizon, and the rotors will stop. Slowly raise the nose again and note the angle at which rotors spin reliably. You'll be flying close to this angle or a little higher.
Turn the model slightly away from the wind and note a drop in the downwind rotor RPM. Turn back into the wind until both rotors spin at the same speed. You can pretty much tell wind direction by noting which way your Slow-G points when its rotors spin at the same speed. You'll need to point directly into the wind for takeoff.

Takeoff: Slow-G can roll of the ground or can be handlaunched. I recommend ROG, at least until you become familiar with its handling. If a takeoff run is not going well, you can always abort it, but you don't have that option once it's literally out of your hands if you throw it. An example of a takeoff that is not going well is one rotor spinning up but not the other.

Slow-G is extremely sensitive to crosswind, because it produces an RPM differential between rotors, and that in turn produces lift differential. Do not attempt to lift off unless both rotors are spinning at the same speed. The model will flip over into the slower-spinning rotor and may shed blades.

Slow-G should not require more than 20' of runway in no-wind conditions, but there is no harm in keeping it on the deck a little bit longer to stabilize the takeoff.

Landing: I recommend landing with a little bit of power. At slow speeds, the elevator becomes ineffective with no prop wash over it, and may have insufficient authority to flare, especially if the CG is forward. However, because the motor is set up with 0 degrees downthrust (an artifact of GWS design), advancing the throttle a little just before touchdown will pull the nose up nicely.

I recommend using a prop saver even if you are an experienced pilot. Slow-G landings are not difficult, but may be a little different from what you are accustomed to, and $2 can save a trip to the hobby store (and your face as well).

Aerobatics: Although Slow-G is aerodynamically capable of positive-G looping, I have not attempted it and do not recommend that you do. Keep in mind that a Slow-G has more drag than a Slow Stick and would be difficult to accelerate to the required entry speed. If you lose airspeed at the top of the loop and allow the rotors to stop, you will lose all lift (as well as all control) and are unlikely to recover. In general, do no unload your rotors or they will stop and you will lose all lift.
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Last edited by iter; Apr 30, 2005 at 04:03 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2005, 02:14 PM
iPhly R/C with iPhone
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Silicon Valley, Calif
Joined Jan 2005
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Errata

I'll keep this post as a list of errors I find in the manual. I'll be fixing them as I go, but if you've read a previous version of the manual, check this post before you build or fly to see if there have been any changes to what you read.

4/29: photos show starboard rotor mounted on port wing. I'll reshoot these photos and replace them as soon as possible.

4/30: recommended prop is 1180, not 1080.

4/30: 1/16" pylon doublers have incorrect-size hole in them. Replacemet parts have been cut, and all new kits will have corrected parts included. Cusomers who have already bought a kit will receive replacement parts in the mail at no charge.

5/3: Wing assembly section & photos added.
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Last edited by iter; May 03, 2005 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2005, 02:25 PM
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Outside of Dyer, Tn. USA
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Ari,
Can you take some shots on how the two halves go together in the middle and how it attaches to the SS?
Thanks,
Don
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Old Apr 30, 2005, 02:37 PM
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Silicon Valley, Calif
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Funny you should mention it, I'm working on it right now :=)
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Old May 03, 2005, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Sims
Ari,
Can you take some shots on how the two halves go together in the middle and how it attaches to the SS?
Don, I hope post #8 makes it clear now.

Ari.
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Old May 03, 2005, 09:28 PM
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Outside of Dyer, Tn. USA
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Thanks for posting Ari!!

You suggest strapping tape across the top of the wing?? Wouldn't it provide better support on the bottom of the wing?

Actually, I plan to use econo covering on the wing area so the red matches the rest of the SS. I considered painting the lifting surfaces but was concerned about unbalancing the blades.
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Old May 03, 2005, 10:15 PM
iPhly R/C with iPhone
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Silicon Valley, Calif
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Don, thank you for your comments.

You are right of course that the bending forces tend to bow the wing, not "unbow" it. However, tape across the bottom surfaces is not likely to be effective because of all the right angles involved. I've flown both with and without the tape, and I'm not sure it's needed much. But I've had some people comment on the wing's strength, and tell me that they feel it would benefit from strapping tape somewhere :=) They were mosly concerned about the butt-to-butt joint of the wing halves, since there is no cross-member to carry the load. Strapping tape -- the glass in it -- sort of fills that role, even on the top surface. It could also prevent a crack from developing along the joint.

If you want to cover the blades, you can rebalance them after you are done. Except for one rotor I covered more for strength than anything else (it had the light, fragile blades I don't use anymore), I've been flying uncovered, unsanded and unfinished blades. I'm sure you would get lower drag if you sanded and covered (or laquered) the blades, but you don't strictly speaking have to.

I'd love to see pictures of an all-red Slow-G! Or maybe paint/cover the blades black to represent oversize Maltese Crosses on stick wings, and the areas around pylons white to represent their backgrouns?

Ari.
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Old May 03, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Outside of Dyer, Tn. USA
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Interesting ideas on the paint Ari! So you don't think the paint would effect the craft much at all?

I hope the Slow Stick makes it here soon. I have a fly-in this weekend and would love to take the Slow-G to show off.

If you'd prefer, I can take these comments to your other Slow-G thread and not clutter up your build thread.
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Old May 04, 2005, 01:58 AM
iPhly R/C with iPhone
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Silicon Valley, Calif
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As long as it's information you feel other Slow-G builders can benefit from, I see no reason not to put it here. OTOH, if it's an adventure, put it in the adventures thread :=)

As far as painting, I've never done that, so I can only speculate. I think if you put on an even coat, you should be able to balance the rotors again. If it's just for color, you can of course use sharpies. I flew the one rotor I covered on the same wing with an uncovered rotor and didn't see much difference, but then again it was a fairly beat-up rotor made from wood that was too soft fot the appication. If you want to experiment, best thing to do is have two different rotors on at the same time and see which way the model tilts :=) You can see an extreme of that in my first post about twin rotor adventures.

I have extra blades and laser-cut hub parts if you want to experient or need replacements.

Ari.
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Old May 05, 2005, 07:57 PM
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Ari,
Please clarify something for me. Do the leading edges of the blades match with the narrow edge of the wedges or do the trailing edges of the blades match with the trailing edges of the wedges?? I'm cornfused!!

My new SS came in this evening!!
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Old May 05, 2005, 08:24 PM
iPhly R/C with iPhone
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Silicon Valley, Calif
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Leading edges rest on the narrow edges. Leading edges must be lower than trailing edges because you want a negative AoA. If you look at post #5, there is a picture of the finished hub there with an arrow that indicates CW rotation. You can also see that the thin sides of the wedges precede the thick ones in direction of rotation. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can clarify this further.

Glad to hear about your SS. Took it some time, didn't it?

Ari.
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Old May 05, 2005, 08:54 PM
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OK, wide edge of the blade (leading) goes on the narrow end of the wedge. I got it, I think!! I kept reading your post 5 while I was out in the barn building and wanted to make double dog sure I was correct.

I live in one of those ya can't get here from there places. I was shocked that your kit made it so fast.
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Old May 05, 2005, 09:11 PM
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Maybe this will clarify things a bit. This is a side view of the finished product in post 5, with a blade airfoil in outline.

Ari.
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Last edited by iter; May 08, 2005 at 09:52 AM.
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Old May 25, 2005, 02:23 PM
EDF all the way!
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Gilbert, Az
Joined Jun 1999
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Mine is flying great! I did learn the hard way not to do inverted flight.
Bob
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Old May 25, 2005, 03:57 PM
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Glad to hear you're enjoying yours! Photos?

Ari.
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