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Old May 22, 2001, 07:42 AM
aka: A.Roger Wilfong
gnofliwr's Avatar
Novi, Michigan, United States
Joined Jan 2001
2,533 Posts
GWS-A Dead :(, Long live the Carbon :)

Well the stock GWS A motor on my Flitter-B died this weekend. I've got lots of flights on a couple of 7 cell NiMh. The motor has been feeling warmer after each flight so I finally put a heat sink on it about 6 flights ago. Saturday, I was was flying around the school yard when all of a sudden the prop stopped - I knew this couldn't be right because there's no brake on the ESC. Landed and picked up the model - the motor was really hot and siezed . After cooling down for a couple of minutes, it would run at partial throttle but started growling past half throttle.

Fortunately, I'd bought a carbon brush replacement at the same time as the heat sink, so I ran home and swapped out the motor. I also figured I'd do some battery tests on the new motor so I threw a 6 cell and an 8 cell pack (both made from GE/Sanyo 9 volt batteries) in the box and headed back to the school yard.

First flight on my stock 7 cell seemed a little peppier than with the old motor - to be expected. What suprised me was that when the Flitter-B landed, the motor wasn't even warm - even when new, the original motor had always at least been warm.

Next I stuck on the 6 cell pack and got about the same performance (but less duration) as I had been getting from the 7 cell MiMh.

Then came the 8 cell pack. I gave the Flitter-B the normal gentle toss and it leapt out of my hand . Going from half to full throttle, the torque wanted to roll the plane to the left - it had never done that before. Next I pulled the nose up - it went UP. After about 5 minutes of nearly full throttle screaming around the sky, I landed. I expected the motor to be hot but it was barely warm to the touch - either the carbon brush motor is a lot more efficient than the stock or the heat sink is. The one time I ran the old motor on the 8 cell pack, it was pretty hot at the end of the flight.

I finished up by putting in my second 7 cell pack and just loafed arond the school yard for about 10 minutes.

Have others seen this kind of improvement with the carbon brush motors? If I'd known it would make that much difference, I'd have switched a long time ago.

- Roger
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Old May 22, 2001, 11:26 AM
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Joined May 2000
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!!!! My Favorite!! Best Regards
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Old May 22, 2001, 02:58 PM
MK
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NJ
Joined Feb 2001
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Where can I get such a motor and do you use the stock gear box?
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Old May 22, 2001, 03:10 PM
aka: A.Roger Wilfong
gnofliwr's Avatar
Novi, Michigan, United States
Joined Jan 2001
2,533 Posts
Mine came from Balsa Products < http://www.balsapr.com/balsapr/catalog4/ >. It's the carbon brush "A" motor for $10 about 12 items down. Comes with the pinion and is a direct swap for the stock motor. While you're at it (the three most expensive words in the English language - the four most expensive words are "honey, I am pregnant" ) pick up a heat sink (last item on the page) - a good $1 investment.

- Roger
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Old May 22, 2001, 03:23 PM
El Queso Grande
Rippin in Hood River, OR, USA
Joined Oct 2000
1,141 Posts
How do you like the FlitterB?
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Old May 22, 2001, 11:46 PM
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Winchester, Kentucky
Joined Jul 2000
435 Posts
Bleriot,

Will the carbon brush version hold up to to the extended flight times of an 8 cell 720 nimh pack? I joined the club after frying the DX-A I was using in the Nano Gnat. It lasted about 5 flights, durations ranging from 15 to 25 minutes.
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Old May 23, 2001, 02:49 AM
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Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Jan 2000
3,036 Posts
Anyone know where you get the carbon brush motors in the UK?

Mike Smart
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Old May 23, 2001, 04:48 AM
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Joined May 2000
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Hi Randy The cb will not take 8 cells for any prolonged duration!! It gets pretty hot on 7 cells nimh, or 3 cell Tadrian.The brushes will not fail but the solder connecting the windings to the commutator will melt, essentially wrecking the motor.To stack the deck on the side of the motor, I do the following. Remove the 2 screws that hold the motor to the GB, drill a hole in the gb to capture the cooling hole in the motor between the 2 screw holes and refit the motor without the screws, with the holes aligned to let some air in/out. drill a 1/16 hole in the center of the endbell to reveal the shaft. a drop of oil occasionally there and the front bushing, none on the gears.Land often during the flight to check the motor temp. If it is too hot to the touch, then let it cool and then fly again (good landing practice). Another alternative is to purchase 3 motors and by using a 2 pin female connector at the ESC, the motor can be easily pushed out and a fresh one installed,while the others cool.Put em on ice! . Using these methods, I just retired one after 13+ logged hours. Best Regards.

[This message has been edited by Bleriot (edited 05-23-2001).]
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Old May 23, 2001, 07:07 AM
aka: A.Roger Wilfong
gnofliwr's Avatar
Novi, Michigan, United States
Joined Jan 2001
2,533 Posts
I posted a mini-review of the Flitter-B in a previous thread. But briefly...

It's a lot of fun. It flys more like a Zagi than a LiteStik (it's a wing - DUH). It can be quick, turn in less than its wing span (nose up, hard rudder, nose back down). My rolls are getting better with it. With its light weight and thick semi symetrical wing, it doesnot conserve energy well so you need to manage the throttle in a loop (you need full throttle going up the front side, then back off a little and feed in a touch of right as you near the top or the motor torque wants to roll it out; once you're past the top, the rest of the loop is fine).

It'll handle more wind than the LiteStik. The school yard I've been flying it in is surrounded by trees and two story apartments. I've flown it there in 5-7 mile and hour winds. If it gets into the turbulence 30-40 feet up on the upwind side of the field, it'll get bounced around, but it's nowhere near the white knuckle, wing flexing ride of a LiteStik in that same air.

I've found it to be great for relaxing in the evening with some mild acrobatics thrown in.

- Roger
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