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Old Apr 13, 2005, 12:01 PM
dmb
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Prague, Czech Republic
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Bottom planking on my Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

I am in the process of building the Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout (1249) and I have just finished gluing in the Chine and am about to embark on gluing down the two bottom expanded PVC planks.

I have noticed that when I rest a straight piece parallel with the bottom of the frame across the butterfly keel and chine (resting on the chine) it will leave a gap meaning that if I am to glue the plank down it would not completely stick to the frame (close to the chine) as the chime is higher. What is normally done in this case? Should I just glue on the edge of the plank along the chine and the other to butterfly keel and fill in the gaps left between the bottom of the frame and plank or sand down the chine?
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Old Apr 13, 2005, 01:22 PM
KC8WPF
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Euclid, Ohio, United States
Joined Sep 2004
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Sand the frames, chines, keel before attaching the planking. Make a sanding block that spans the distance of at least three frames. If possible, it should be at least as wide as the distance from the centerline to the chine.
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Old Apr 13, 2005, 01:25 PM
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Hi dmb , I have had this before on a couple of boats i have built . I found that it is better to sand the chine and the keel if needed. I have tried to fill the gap before and it is very difficult to get a slim sliver of wood in betwen the planking and the frames , and you end up having to sand the bit you put in anyway.
As long as the gap is not " too " big , you can generally pinch a bit here , pinch a bit there on this one i think, use as long a sanding block as possible , should be ok.
cheers Kirk
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Old Apr 13, 2005, 01:27 PM
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Great minds think a like eh CGBob
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Old Apr 13, 2005, 08:33 PM
Soaking it all in
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Joined Jan 2005
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I got mine pretty close to even / level without sanding too much material away.

Then when the planks were glued on I turned the boat over - sprayed some 'Kicker' into any gaps and 'dripped' in some medium CA glue - it sets right away to fill the gap and anchor the plank securely.

I was a bit worried about sanding too much wood away and ending up with funny contours - but I guess if you use a large sanding block like suggested this should not happen - plus I also hate spending too long sanding - much more fun sticking things together!!!
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Old Apr 13, 2005, 11:05 PM
dmb
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Thanks for the suggestions. I will try a combination of both, as I am also “a bit worried about sanding too much wood away and ending up with funny contours”
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Old Apr 14, 2005, 08:28 AM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=racer

you might find this useful
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Old Dec 01, 2006, 11:05 PM
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If you want to fill small gaps that will be hidden from view, use Arm & Hammer baking soda sprinkled into the gap then apply a few drops of thin CA.
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Old Dec 02, 2006, 08:42 AM
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DMB, When you are sanding your bottom, just use your keel and your chines as a guide to fairing your bottom. The frames are secondary. Once you get a nice fairing on the keel/chines and your bottom plank fits really nice on the keel and the chines, then you can take your square and see what kind of gaps that you have with the frames. I usually just glue strips of balsa to the bottom of the frames which are quickly sanded and faired to the keel/chines.


Edited, Whoa!! Just found out that this was an OLD thread...........
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Old Dec 03, 2006, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmb
I am in the process of building the Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout (1249) and I have just finished gluing in the Chine and am about to embark on gluing down the two bottom expanded PVC planks.

I have noticed that when I rest a straight piece parallel with the bottom of the frame across the butterfly keel and chine (resting on the chine) it will leave a gap meaning that if I am to glue the plank down it would not completely stick to the frame (close to the chine) as the chime is higher. What is normally done in this case? Should I just glue on the edge of the plank along the chine and the other to butterfly keel and fill in the gaps left between the bottom of the frame and plank or sand down the chine?
I am glad to see that I'm not the only one who sees the problem in the bottom planking on the 19' racing runabout. I sorry to say that I did check the bottom at the keel and the chine before planking with the plastic, no problem. The problem is that when the planking was applied, a hollow was created between the frame spacing fore and aft between the keel and the chine. I did not realize this untill the boat was finished and went for the shakedown run and guess what, the boat will not plane off. That hollow spot is not even a 1/16" gap, but the suction it creates will be enough to never allow the model to climb up and plane off no mater how much power is available. Since I will have to go back and rework the bottom anyhow, this is my chance to turn the boat into a one step hydro, like the 16' CHRIS-
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Old Dec 03, 2006, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmb
I am in the process of building the Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout (1249) and I have just finished gluing in the Chine and am about to embark on gluing down the two bottom expanded PVC planks.

I have noticed that when I rest a straight piece parallel with the bottom of the frame across the butterfly keel and chine (resting on the chine) it will leave a gap meaning that if I am to glue the plank down it would not completely stick to the frame (close to the chine) as the chime is higher. What is normally done in this case? Should I just glue on the edge of the plank along the chine and the other to butterfly keel and fill in the gaps left between the bottom of the frame and plank or sand down the chine?
I am glad to see that I'm not the only one who sees the problem in the bottom planking on the 19' racing runabout. I sorry to say that I did check the bottom at the keel and the chine before planking with the plastic, no problem. The problem is that when the planking was applied, a hollow was created between the frame spacing fore and aft between the keel and the chine. I did not realize this untill the boat was finished and went for the shakedown run and guess what, the boat will not plane off. That hollow spot is not even a 1/16" gap, but the suction it creates will be enough to never allow the model to climb up and plane off no mater how much power is available. Since I will have to go back and rework the bottom anyhow, this is my chance to turn the boat into a one step hydro, like the 16' CHRIS-CRAFT HYDRO. My advice to any one who is going to build the model is to add one or two spruce battens to the bottom notched into the frames to prevent the hollow spot and also to true the bottom for a planing hull. Remember a little rocker bottom is ok, a concave bottom is a no-no.
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