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Old Jun 12, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by himagain View Post
Here is the S-3381-1C1 pinout i worked it out from

PIN# FUNCTION DESCRIPTION
1-8,37-44 RTN Power and Signal Return
9 SPARE Spare position (No connection)
10, 12, 14, 16, 18,20,22, +12V + 12V Output
24,26,28,30,32,34,36
11 RS RTN Remote Sense Return
13 +12VRS + 12V Remote Sense
15 PSON# Power-On Enable Input
17 HB Hard Boot Input
19 12LS 12V Load Share Bus
21 DCOK +12V Output OK Signal
23 PS KILL Power Supply Fast Shutdown Input
25,27 29 5VSB +5V Standby Output
31 -12V -12V Output
33 FANV Power Supply Fan Voltage Input
35 PRESENT# Power Supply Present Signal



David
Thanks David, much appreciated.
Did you try connecting the Remote Sense (pin 13) to the +12V o/p? May make it more stable. Probably stable enough for our use though as it is.

Cheers
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Xizor View Post
Thanks David, much appreciated.
Did you try connecting the Remote Sense (pin 13) to the +12V o/p? May make it more stable. Probably stable enough for our use though as it is.

Cheers
I tried all ways in the beginning, you can see the solder on 13 in the picture. Ive never found a problem with them without pin 13 and didn't see any difference when i connected it.

What I did wonder about is pin 33 the fan power supply voltage pin... Didn't get chance to mess with it.

Give it a go and see if you can discover something.

David
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Yeah, I wonder if pin 33 controls the fan speed somehow?

I'll have a poke around and report back.

Thanks again for the info.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Xizor View Post
Yeah, I wonder if pin 33 controls the fan speed somehow?

I'll have a poke around and report back.

Thanks again for the info.
If you sort that you will be Mr Popular
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 11:44 PM
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So can anyone explain how to do the 24v series wiring? I see a couple members have successfully accomplished it.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bmr4life View Post
So can anyone explain how to do the 24v series wiring? I see a couple members have successfully accomplished it.
Depends on the power supply, suggest you search for your model number. In short you have to isolate the dc negative output on the supply which will be used for the positive side from the ac ground / metal case. So if you use a ohm meter you should measure no connection between the case and the negative output. Then you wire them in series the positive of the unmodified to the negative of the modified.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by grimbeaver View Post
Depends on the power supply, suggest you search for your model number. In short you have to isolate the dc negative output on the supply which will be used for the positive side from the ac ground / metal case. So if you use a ohm meter you should measure no connection between the case and the negative output. Then you wire them in series the positive of the unmodified to the negative of the modified.
Thanks. I two of the PS this thread was originally posted about. After doing this, its okay for the cases to touch?
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmr4life View Post
Thanks. I two of the PS this thread was originally posted about. After doing this, its okay for the cases to touch?
As long as you can verify that there is no connection between the case and the negative output it is safe for them to touch.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by grimbeaver View Post
As long as you can verify that there is no connection between the case and the negative output it is safe for them to touch.
So after I remove the chassis ground, can the PS still be used for 12v power?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:53 PM
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charger stand and end cap.

I've been using an old DL380 PS for a couple of years to power my chargers, thanks for all the info.

If you have access to a 3d printer, I have an end cap and charger stand that might be useful.

End cap makes the wiring nice and clean
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29295

Simple charger stand that fits over the PS, designed around a Hyperion 720 duo3, but should work for most chargers.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29298
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jsaffer View Post
I've been using an old DL380 PS for a couple of years to power my chargers, thanks for all the info.

If you have access to a 3d printer, I have an end cap and charger stand that might be useful.

End cap makes the wiring nice and clean
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29295

Simple charger stand that fits over the PS, designed around a Hyperion 720 duo3, but should work for most chargers.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29298
Fantastic. I really should get me a 3d printer.

Thanks for sharing
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by himagain View Post
MT

The 4 outer pads are all negative and are wrapped top to bottom and connected with the white wire to a the negative. This is just to common up all the negs with suitable wire.

The activation wires are all servo leads and pass very little current, the sticking out connections are what I used to buzz out the psi when I first worked out how to power it up, I only showed them to make it easy to understand. In the finished psi they are all short and tidied away behind the mouldable plastic or glue gun goo


David
I have one of these supplies and have made your modifications soldering the three wires to the bottom on the pcb and the output cables on the opposite side. The thing i can not get is why you need to connect the four outer ground pads to each other? Those are at least on my supply already connected via the chassis thru a screw?
I will use an external residual current device as an extra protection.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Helikopter View Post
I have one of these supplies and have made your modifications soldering the three wires to the bottom on the pcb and the output cables on the opposite side. The thing i can not get is why you need to connect the four outer ground pads to each other? Those are at least on my supply already connected via the chassis thru a screw?
I will use an external residual current device as an extra protection.
I did it initially that way because I hadn't taken it apart and wasn't aware of the internal wiring. So to be safe and prevent track heating at max load I connected them together.

Since then a lot of people have been removing the 2 screws to decouple the mains earth (case) and negative so they can wire the PSU's in series. I guess it then makes sense to couple them up.

I havent converted one without coupling them so I wouldnt know if its caused issues. Anyone got a comment on this one?

David
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:00 PM
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Ok, then i understand. Have you been using this supply for a while using the setup of 3 cables on the bottom? Just so it will work for a while...
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 04:16 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Ok so I have two of these ESP113 PSU's getting prepped for use with a Powerlab 8. According to all the knowledge and mis-knowledge in this forum, I would like to get a few things straight just to be sure im understanding it all..

*Isolating the two PSU's from each other will not require me to do the DC ground lift? As long as the two metal cases never come in contact, I should be ok..

*Combining the two in series, meaning joining the voltages to form 24v respectively, does not double my Amps? Am I correct in assuming that the Amps stays at 32?

*Lastly, has anyone confirmed a way to use a small switch in order to turn the power supplies on or off? If I break the circuit on any one of the three wires on the bottom traces, will this effectively and safely shut down the PSU?

Here are some pictures of what Ive done so far with one of the PSU's. I plan to do the same with the other.






Each PSU will be able to handle two chargers assuming obviously that they do no overdraw current.

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