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Old Jan 27, 2012, 11:57 AM
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David,

Couple questions based on your photos back on page 1.

First, the black negative wire also connects to the same pad(s) as the white wire?

Second, the light gauge wires shown soldered to the skinny pads. Where are those wires in the other photos? Have they been tucked back inside the case to clean it up a bit? Do these wires carry any amount of current, or merely signal-level voltage?

Thanks,

MT
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnite Tweeke View Post
David,

Couple questions based on your photos back on page 1.

First, the black negative wire also connects to the same pad(s) as the white wire?

Second, the light gauge wires shown soldered to the skinny pads. Where are those wires in the other photos? Have they been tucked back inside the case to clean it up a bit? Do these wires carry any amount of current, or merely signal-level voltage?

Thanks,

MT
MT

The 4 outer pads are all negative and are wrapped top to bottom and connected with the white wire to a the negative. This is just to common up all the negs with suitable wire.

The activation wires are all servo leads and pass very little current, the sticking out connections are what I used to buzz out the psi when I first worked out how to power it up, I only showed them to make it easy to understand. In the finished psi they are all short and tidied away behind the mouldable plastic or glue gun goo


David
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 09:56 AM
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I've just purchased one of these off eBay for a spiffing 10 inc. P&P.

Will the solution described in the thread work with any charger?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by alexthecheese View Post
I've just purchased one of these off eBay for a spiffing 10 inc. P&P.

Will the solution described in the thread work with any charger?

It supplies exactly 12v with loads of Amps.... if your charger is 12v off you go
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Thanks. Just read this through properly and it all makes sense. For 10 this setup seems like an absolute bargain.

I think I was thinking about how you can get more volts into a battery than the PSU is supplying. i.e. 12v supply to get 12.6v fully-charged batteries. That's a bit more of a general question I know.

What wires would you recommend for use across the negatives and also for the pins?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Yeah, they work great and don't seem to have problems.

Have eight of them left in the basement after supplying about 20 people around here with them just in case I need another.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 07:51 PM
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[QUOTE]Have eight of them left in the basement after supplying about 20 people around here QUOTE]

I see all sorts of sellers on eBay with quite a bit of variation in prices and guarantees. Have you ever encountered a problem with your purchases? Had a warranty claim? Any problem getting a seller to stand behind it? Or do you just consider them cheap enough that you don't worry about an occasional dud?

Thanks,

MT
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 08:35 PM
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I don't buy them, I actually pull them from servers before they are sent for recycling. Haven't had one go bad yet.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 10:51 AM
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I received one today. I'll be wiring it up tonight.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 10:14 PM
Joe from New England
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Grateful Thanks

I just wanted to take a minute to thanks all of you guys in helping me convert eight different server PS to functioning power supply's.

A friend of mine got a bunch of them for free out of his work place for the goose!

After converting them with the knowledge gained here,I have passed out a half of dozen to various friends (RCer's & not) to help in charging batteries, troubleshooting ETC.

Who can't use a good powerful 12+ volt power supply. Of course, "nothing succeeds like excess", who can't use a 24 volt PS.

In closing, thanks again.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 12:28 PM
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Pete

Thats cool, its worth noting when I posted it i thought nobody apart from the original poster would be interested.

Happy to see so many people now using them

David
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 05:24 PM
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Operational PSU!

I knew I kept an old DL380 G3 w/ dual power supplies for something. I've got the PSU driving my iCharger with good results. I'd now like to pot the exposed connections to reduce the chance of me going to the hospital.

I saw mention of "magic plastic", but cannot find a suitable compound on Google. Would regular RTV silicone compound work? I can get that semi-locally.

Loud bugger, but that's probably a good thing. That way I know a battery is charging....
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 03:29 PM
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I used magic plastic which I can buy from ebay in the UK

Second best thing is just simple glue from a glue gun

David
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 05:35 PM
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I had some silicone window sealant laying around, so gooped that all over it and then wrapped it in some self-sealing electrical tape (though regular tape would work just fine).
I have 4 more PSU's waiting for a rainy day and a new soldering tip.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branflake12 View Post
I had some silicone window sealant laying around, so gooped that all over it and then wrapped it in some self-sealing electrical tape (though regular tape would work just fine).
I have 4 more PSU's waiting for a rainy day and a new soldering tip.
I ended up getting electronic grade silicone sealant/adhesive. Now just waiting for the power poles to arrive and I'll finish up this project. Love the amount of help available on RCGroups.com
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