Full fuse printed P40

ldammann · Apr 09, 2005, 04:48 PM

In a effort to hide the electrics on a printed warbird (t1mux prints are to good looking to cover up), I want to come up with a semi full fuse for these little fighters.

Just kind of thinking out loud at this point. Looking for advice and/or ideas on how to make this work.

Heres what I have so far. WS is 30". Sides are 2mm. Perimeter is 6mm square. Formers are 3mm. Overall width is 1 1/4". Wing will be 5mm with print on both sides with CF spar. Tail will be 3mm with print on both sides. Front bottom will be left open for bat cooling. When building the real thing, I think I would round the corners before putting on the print.

Of course, the next step would be to cap the tops and some of the bottom. May have to install electrics before the side goes on. Could be a problem for service.

Any tips or ideas will be appreciated.

Disreguard this post and move to the bottom of the page.

Lee

Minimole · Apr 09, 2005, 05:14 PM

Looks very good!!!

Duane

Vyceroy · Apr 09, 2005, 05:29 PM

Nice .. like it better than a single layer profile ..

stirlingnut · Apr 09, 2005, 05:35 PM

That is TOO SWEET!!!

t1mux · Apr 09, 2005, 08:46 PM

Following Lee's last example of a simple box fuse, I put this together. The part labeled Mid Fuse Former is the top cowl surface. However where the cowl meets the bottom of the front window it former goes directley back torwards the elevator slot on the tail. I included flat wing additions for both low and mid fuse. Mid wing would obviosly give more room for gear. Skins are included for the cowl and front canopy window and should be centered and trimmed to fit your setup. The rest of top from the front of the canopy to the front of the stab should be joined together by holding the two surfaces together and cutting a V in the foam from both sides of the skin. Next work the foam between your fingers until they join easily and connect them with some contact cement pinching the sides together. I figured this out by accident when I forgot to cut angle surfaces into my elevator when I made my BD, and they look great. The Bottom fuse spacers overlap following the steps in the bottom of the fuse. This gives the option of having piece #2 function as the fuse door attaching with velcro to piece #3. All of the skins are 1.58" and should be trimmed to fit. Everything should line up and is as close as I could get it without a test build. Who wants to be a tester? Link To Full Size File 29"x49"

ldammann · Apr 09, 2005, 10:22 PM

Tim

WOW!!! Just what I needed. To bad I leave for Florida in the morning. Your killing me.

Lee

brasscorpion · Apr 09, 2005, 10:38 PM

I was thinking...is there a particular reason why you wouldn't just use one and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 inch EPP foam from like lowes or Home depot? Looks great though...wish I could finish one of my projects so I can get to flying more than building...

Brass

ldammann · Apr 09, 2005, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brasscorpion

I was thinking...is there a particular reason why you wouldn't just use one and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 inch EPP foam from like lowes or Home depot? Looks great though...wish I could finish one of my projects so I can get to flying more than building...

Brass

My main reason is to have room inside to put the electronics. And I think this will be lighter? And no sanding to get the shape.

Lee

ldammann · Apr 09, 2005, 11:00 PM

Ok guys. Disregard the first photos. Build it like Tims prints and discription. I started playing with it when Tim posted and its going to look better, be easyer to build and stronger. I'll do a build from Tims prints when I get back from Florida in a week. In the meantime, heres some pics of the wing and tail.

Lee

Tdevil · Apr 20, 2005, 09:48 PM

Here is what I have so far on my full fuse P40 build. Went together very nicely and everything lines up well. I might suggest a piece to go in the front to wrap the shark mouth around as it is on actual plane.

I am planning on mounting the motor high in the front, again as it is in the actual plane. Will this have any effect on the flight characteristics or does the thrust line have to be down the middle of the plane?

I am planning on using R/E. Any suggestions on how much dihedral I will need to put under each wing? I was thinking about 2 1/4 inches.

Airframe as it stands weighs in at about 4.5 ounces.

Robb · Apr 20, 2005, 10:16 PM

I would suggest sanding the bottom of the cowl as round as possible, and wrapping the printed cover around, to give it more of a scale appearance.

As far as dihedral, 2 1/4" on a 30" span should be OK, the low wing gives less goofy looking yaw in flight than a high wing will for some odd reason.

Put the thrust line on about the same plane as the horizontal stab and it'll be fine. At the Reynolds numbers that we deal with on these little planes, the aircraft flies more on the prop than on the wing, the control surfaces more redirecting the airplane than flying it, if you take my meaning.

ldammann · Apr 20, 2005, 10:20 PM

Looking good Tdevil.

Don't know for sure of the thrust line. I'm going to keep mine about even with the exhaust.

Dihedral, the more you have the more stable it will be and the better it will turn. Is there a reason you didn't go alerion/ elevator with no dihedral. Did you do a cambered wing?

How bout some pics of the bottom.

Lee

t1mux · Apr 20, 2005, 10:24 PM

Tdevil, That looks great! I will put together the nose pieces and post them in the morning. I don't know how I missed that. Thanks.

According to a recent post by Gene Bond these are the rules of thumb for dihedral:

1-3 degrees total for a high-wing (.5-.75in/ft)
5-8 degrees total for a mid-wing (1-1.6in/ft)
10-13 dgerees total for a low-wing (2.1-2.8in/ft)

If you printed full size you have a 36" span = 6.3-8.4in/ft.

I will let an expert field your motor question.

ldammann · Apr 20, 2005, 10:24 PM

OK I'm finially back and building. To build to T1mux suggestions, bevel the top edge of the fuse from the tail to the windshield.

Robb · Apr 20, 2005, 10:25 PM

Lee,
You and I must have been typing at the same time...

Apr 09, 2005, 04:48 PM	#1
ldammann Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Oshkosh WI Posts: 582	Full fuse printed P40 In a effort to hide the electrics on a printed warbird (t1mux prints are to good looking to cover up), I want to come up with a semi full fuse for these little fighters. Just kind of thinking out loud at this point. Looking for advice and/or ideas on how to make this work. Heres what I have so far. WS is 30". Sides are 2mm. Perimeter is 6mm square. Formers are 3mm. Overall width is 1 1/4". Wing will be 5mm with print on both sides with CF spar. Tail will be 3mm with print on both sides. Front bottom will be left open for bat cooling. When building the real thing, I think I would round the corners before putting on the print. Of course, the next step would be to cap the tops and some of the bottom. May have to install electrics before the side goes on. Could be a problem for service. Any tips or ideas will be appreciated. Disreguard this post and move to the bottom of the page. Lee Attached Thumbnails 55.3 KB · Views: 2262 58.3 KB · Views: 2044 58.8 KB · Views: 2210 59.5 KB · Views: 2147 56.4 KB · Views: 2514 Last edited by ldammann; Apr 09, 2005 at 11:12 PM.

Apr 09, 2005, 08:46 PM	#5
t1mux Mocking Birds Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: VA Posts: 287	P40 Full Fuse Following Lee's last example of a simple box fuse, I put this together. The part labeled Mid Fuse Former is the top cowl surface. However where the cowl meets the bottom of the front window it former goes directley back torwards the elevator slot on the tail. I included flat wing additions for both low and mid fuse. Mid wing would obviosly give more room for gear. Skins are included for the cowl and front canopy window and should be centered and trimmed to fit your setup. The rest of top from the front of the canopy to the front of the stab should be joined together by holding the two surfaces together and cutting a V in the foam from both sides of the skin. Next work the foam between your fingers until they join easily and connect them with some contact cement pinching the sides together. I figured this out by accident when I forgot to cut angle surfaces into my elevator when I made my BD, and they look great. The Bottom fuse spacers overlap following the steps in the bottom of the fuse. This gives the option of having piece #2 function as the fuse door attaching with velcro to piece #3. All of the skins are 1.58" and should be trimmed to fit. Everything should line up and is as close as I could get it without a test build. Who wants to be a tester? Link To Full Size File 29"x49" Last edited by t1mux; Apr 10, 2005 at 09:01 AM.

Apr 09, 2005, 11:00 PM	#9
ldammann Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Oshkosh WI Posts: 582	Ok guys. Disregard the first photos. Build it like Tims prints and discription. I started playing with it when Tim posted and its going to look better, be easyer to build and stronger. I'll do a build from Tims prints when I get back from Florida in a week. In the meantime, heres some pics of the wing and tail. Lee Attached Thumbnails 58.4 KB · Views: 2125 56.5 KB · Views: 1954 59.7 KB · Views: 1921 60.3 KB · Views: 1960

Apr 20, 2005, 10:24 PM	#14
ldammann Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Oshkosh WI Posts: 582	OK I'm finially back and building. To build to T1mux suggestions, bevel the top edge of the fuse from the tail to the windshield. Attached Thumbnails 58.5 KB · Views: 1734 55.9 KB · Views: 1595

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Apr 09, 2005, 05:14 PM	#2
Minimole Sponsered By My Wallet! Join Date: May 2004 Location: Colwyn Bay, North Wales, UK Posts: 5,516	Looks very good!!! Duane

Apr 09, 2005, 05:29 PM	#3
Vyceroy G G Ghost Pirates !!! Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Charlotte N.C. Posts: 8,267	Nice .. like it better than a single layer profile ..

Apr 09, 2005, 05:35 PM	#4
stirlingnut zagnutz fiend Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: tulsa,ok Posts: 1,425	That is TOO SWEET!!!

Apr 09, 2005, 10:22 PM	#6
ldammann Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Oshkosh WI Posts: 582	Tim WOW!!! Just what I needed. To bad I leave for Florida in the morning. Your killing me. Lee

Apr 09, 2005, 10:38 PM	#7
brasscorpion Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 86	I was thinking...is there a particular reason why you wouldn't just use one and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 inch EPP foam from like lowes or Home depot? Looks great though...wish I could finish one of my projects so I can get to flying more than building... Brass

Apr 20, 2005, 09:48 PM	#10
Tdevil Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Grand Rapids Kent Cty, Michigan, United States Posts: 131	Here is what I have so far on my full fuse P40 build. Went together very nicely and everything lines up well. I might suggest a piece to go in the front to wrap the shark mouth around as it is on actual plane. I am planning on mounting the motor high in the front, again as it is in the actual plane. Will this have any effect on the flight characteristics or does the thrust line have to be down the middle of the plane? I am planning on using R/E. Any suggestions on how much dihedral I will need to put under each wing? I was thinking about 2 1/4 inches. Airframe as it stands weighs in at about 4.5 ounces.

Apr 20, 2005, 10:16 PM	#11
Robb AMA CD# 5957 Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Janesville, WI Posts: 274	I would suggest sanding the bottom of the cowl as round as possible, and wrapping the printed cover around, to give it more of a scale appearance. As far as dihedral, 2 1/4" on a 30" span should be OK, the low wing gives less goofy looking yaw in flight than a high wing will for some odd reason. Put the thrust line on about the same plane as the horizontal stab and it'll be fine. At the Reynolds numbers that we deal with on these little planes, the aircraft flies more on the prop than on the wing, the control surfaces more redirecting the airplane than flying it, if you take my meaning.

Apr 20, 2005, 10:20 PM	#12
ldammann Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Oshkosh WI Posts: 582	Looking good Tdevil. Don't know for sure of the thrust line. I'm going to keep mine about even with the exhaust. Dihedral, the more you have the more stable it will be and the better it will turn. Is there a reason you didn't go alerion/ elevator with no dihedral. Did you do a cambered wing? How bout some pics of the bottom. Lee

Apr 20, 2005, 10:25 PM	#15
Robb AMA CD# 5957 Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Janesville, WI Posts: 274	Lee, You and I must have been typing at the same time...