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Old Dec 01, 2012, 06:40 AM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
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Pick one Mode or the other - and stick with it IMHO, Neal.

Sure, it'd be nice to set up Aile + Ele on one stick for yank and bank and a differnt config for ruddered planes - but it will end up biting you.

Particularly in a difficult moment - like lost orientation when you instinctively go for one style of bail-out. If you have to try to remember which sticks do what, by the time you remember you're in Mode X instead of Mode Y, you'll be picking up bits of plane.

Seriously, if Mode 2 suits you better, then just stick to it and fly that. Not everyone enjoys Mode 1, and up to a certain level IMHO, there's no real advantages between the two. M1 may have slight advantages way on down the track if you're into 3D helis or planes - but there's lots of M2 fliers who will fly rings around M1 pilots. Horses for courses.

I'd suggest you go for whatever mode suits you better. It is, after all, you who is flying the aircraft.

If you've played a lot of the early style computer fligt SIMS/games using a single joystick, chances are your brain is already hard-wired into Aile/Ele on the one stick. If you're right handed, that suggests that Mode 2 is your go - you've already got your movements programmed into your right hand.

In very broad general terms, a lot of US fliers are Mode 2, UK/Aus fliers tend to be Mode 1. But that's a very big generalisation. Most of the guys I fly with are M1 - but then again I haven't flown with more than about 100 people.

Pick the one that feels more natural and smooth to you, and go with that...

BJ
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 06:51 AM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef_rc View Post
Hi Neal,

any reason why you can't just put the aileron servo into the rudder slot in your receiver and control it just like mode 2 (aileron/elevator) except yours in on your left and those using mode 2 are on their right?
Interesting concept of swapping servo leads around.

I fly Mode 1, and most of my planes are yank-and-bank Aileron/Elevator.

A neat trick I learnt when flying a Rudder/Elevator-only plane is to slot the Rudder into the Aileron slot on the Rx. It's not exactly the same feel to me as an A/E plane, but it works.

I'm just starting to learn to use rudder on some of my newer planes - e.g. 3D. Really wierd feeling when you haven't had a rudder before. Rud/Aile mixing in modern Tx's kinda takes away a bit of the skill needed to use the benefit of a rudder to flaten out turns in scalies etc. (or do snap hammerheads in 3D's ), but it sure helps a hack like me

BJ
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 08:51 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
Demon 6's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Jul 2011
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Hey gents! I have been monitoring the thread from my workbench and I'm glad to see its going real strong... I am going to build another wingset and get her back up there... I'm going to go the 4S route with the Ammo/Gearbox setup, I've used the MVVS for a bit and I want to see how the Ammo stacks up, they are equal in weight, which was a surprise to me.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Australia, QLD, Beaudesert
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Hi guys
I am staying where i am with modes, just toying with the idea a little.
Well a friend and I have both ordered a turnigy motor as recomended above, I dont think it will fit but I was wrong once before
In which case I will give it a run in my fibreglass Skywalker,that should give me a good picture of the sky!!!
Neal.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:54 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
Demon 6's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neale View Post
Hi guys
I am staying where i am with modes, just toying with the idea a little.
Well a friend and I have both ordered a turnigy motor as recomended above, I dont think it will fit but I was wrong once before
In which case I will give it a run in my fibreglass Skywalker,that should give me a good picture of the sky!!!
Neal.
What size motor? I cant find the post you mentioned... (link?)
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Hi Demon 6,
Sorry, one day I will learn how to add links!!
In the meantime I will do it the hard way!
Turnigy D3548/4 1100KV
I think not going to fit siren, and I will not drill holes to run motor wires external,
so it should go really well in the skywalker, so I am still looking for a cheap motor (for now) for the siren.
Neal
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:44 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
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United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neale View Post
Hi Demon 6,
Sorry, one day I will learn how to add links!!
In the meantime I will do it the hard way!
Turnigy D3548/4 1100KV
I think not going to fit siren, and I will not drill holes to run motor wires external,
so it should go really well in the skywalker, so I am still looking for a cheap motor (for now) for the siren.
Neal
It will fit fine, my MVVS has the same diameter.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 04:01 PM
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The motor will fit, but the motor wires running down beside it could be the problem, which is what I am thinking may cause the probs.
Neal
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 04:08 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
Demon 6's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neale View Post
The motor will fit, but the motor wires running down beside it could be the problem, which is what I am thinking may cause the probs.
Neal
Ooh, out runner... Good luck with that

To share links, go to "Comment", manage attachments(like your adding a pic), there on that page it says "Insert URL"... Paste your link there,,,

Or just paste the link in the comment box...
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Demon 6,
Thanks for the wishes of good luck, think wishes for anther motor might work better
I will take note for posting links, thanks
Neal
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Hi, neale.

There are lots of ways to keep wires away from an outrunner unless it's simply too big. If there's enough room it's a simple matter to hold the wires in place with a thin piece of plywood and a couple drops of expanding glue. I'll include the pic of my Specter as an example. I haven't had to deal with a tighter motor installation but, if one needs just a millimeter or two, I figure that one could simple place a cooling vent where one needs the extra room. Then, just put a scoop over the hole and no one will ever see the wire. The little scoops on my Specter were just made out of bits of plastic spoon.

Cheers!
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:29 PM
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Hi peteringh
I understand what you mean, I am just a little concerned about cutting into the fuse so close to the nose, and then trying to get 700-800 watts of power thru it without tearing the nose off!!
Neal
PS; I wish I had as much room as you do!
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 11:06 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
Demon 6's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neale View Post
Hi peteringh
I understand what you mean, I am just a little concerned about cutting into the fuse so close to the nose, and then trying to get 700-800 watts of power thru it without tearing the nose off!!
Neal
PS; I wish I had as much room as you do!
Not sure what your budget is, but the Ammo w/GB is a light and relativity inexpensive setup...
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 02:51 AM
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HI Demon 6
I originally bought the Ammo and G/B from Tower Hobbies\, they are telling me it must be lost in the mail, but they do not consider it lost until after 45 days.
After which I tell them it has not turned up, then I will find out what there policy is, So at the moment I have no plans to order another one at the moment.
Neal
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 04:36 AM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
22,629 Posts
Man... that sucks.

I hope it turns up, Neal.

TowerH have a pretty good reputation - let's hope they look after you.

BJ
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