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Old Oct 27, 2012, 09:54 AM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
24,600 Posts
Dude - spend 20 bucks extra and get an ESC that will do the job without breaking sweat. And if you want to use a UBEC etc, keep it well clear of your Rx - particularly if it's a 'switching' type (SBEC) that can pump out a lot of RF noise.

She's a lovely aircraft and can be a real pleasure to fly - last thing you need is to lawn-dart it for the sake of a few extra dollars.

Oh...and BTW... once you hear that magic "whistle", you're gonna be hooked on that CF fuze and big wing.

Next step for me is a full-house mouldie

BJ
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 01:32 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
Demon 6's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Jul 2011
653 Posts
I would pick up an 80<100A ESC, minimum.... Rest assured, you will want "more" after a few flights and its better to just get a hotter motor than another ESC as well... Just a thought...
Also, I use a external BEC myself for a host of reasons, mainly for brown outs (hi amp/voltage spikes) and the conscience of setting up the radio without fear of and prop spin up to name a few.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Australia, QLD, Beaudesert
Joined Jul 2008
569 Posts
Hi guys.
Demon 6. Am not going to go marginal with the speed controller, I am looking at two Hobbyking ESC's, a YEP 100 amp good for 3sand 4s, or the super brain 100 amp but only good for 4s.so if I went with the super brain I would have to start with 4s, thoughts?
And it is $90 and I was trying to keep it down, but I really like the data logging capability on the S/B ! And I gotta say that $90 is cheap when you look at castle or whatever, but I will have a look around at reviews for the S/B before I chooose an esc. I do have a couple of sbec's on shelf to use, much prefer seperate bec.
As for noise, I do a bit of fpv so I am into checking and sepperating!
So anyway I am not going to push the speedy too hard. If / when need more I will probably have enough headroom. I hope.
The only two things is trying to pick a servo other than Hitec 65mb's nothing wrong with them I run them in a couple of heli's, But if I could find some at the fifteen to 20 dollar mark I would be happy, and the other one is RxFreq to use.
I have been flying all my LOS stuff with spectrum or Frsky, as for Frsky, to me, it has not given me any grief whatsoever, my clouds fly has a little 4 ch Rx in it and That plane turns into a very small piece of gear in the sky! But with this being a bigger plane, so higher/further, and that has carbon in it I am wondering if I should buy a N?R Rx for my uhf and go that way instead? It is a bit more bulky on the Tx end though, but maybe a good trade-off for piece of mind?
Do have the option of buying a new 72mhz module for the 9c I suppose, but would prefer tue TSLS, whats your thoughts on that guys?
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:44 AM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
24,600 Posts
Mine has a Spektrum 6250 Carbon Fuselage Rx in it, and it specs-out no problems.

I just make sure both antenna whiskers are poked out through the fuze properly before I fly.

BJ
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 08:06 AM
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[QUOTE=BJ64;23119095]Mine has a Spektrum 6250 Carbon Fuselage Rx in it, and it specs-out no problems.

I just make sure both antenna whiskers are poked out through the fuze properly before I fly.

Sounds good, might just try the spectrum, and put the sats on.
Any suggestions for servos??
Neal
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:57 PM
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United States, MI, Onaway
Joined Aug 2008
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using the frsky v8fr-II hv in the siren with the antennas out side the fuse with no problems.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:10 PM
Dir. of Innovation at Alert 5
Demon 6's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Jul 2011
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I've used many different Spektrum RX's in her... From the Carbon version to the ordinary AR6500 (with the long whiskers), as long as they are outside of the fuse it will be happy sailing!
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 04:44 PM
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Australia, QLD, Beaudesert
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O.K. I will take it that as long as I can get the antennas outside the fuse, I should be ok, thats good to hear, as I would like to give the fr sky a run in it + i'd like to try the telemetry set up from then just for height and speed.
Neal.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 05:40 PM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon 6 View Post
I've used many different Spektrum RX's in her... From the Carbon version to the ordinary AR6500 (with the long whiskers), as long as they are outside of the fuse it will be happy sailing!
Ditto on that - so long as the whiskers are outside.

The only difference between the 'Carbon' AR6250 to the normal AR6200's seems to be that they give you longer antenna - so that you can poke them outside.

For those who may not know, on 2.4gig the actual working portion of the antenna is only around 32mm long.

With Spektrum stuff, it's the sometimes bare looking bit in the end of the wire - the rest is just extension wire. Their Carbon Rx's give you more of the extension wire so that you can clear the fuze and get that tip out in the fresh air, where the carbon of the fuze want absorb all the radio signal before it can get to the Rx.

The newer 'hundred' (3 digit) series (as opposed to the familiar 'thousand' (4 digit) series) Rx's have one normal length antenna, and one super long one e.g. AR500, AR600.

BJ
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 05:50 PM
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Australia, QLD, Beaudesert
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Hi BJ
I have not seen any of the new spectrum Rx's, since I killed my DX-7!
BJ a full house mouldie?? hotliner?
Are you running yours on 4s, I am looking at batts at moment, and wondering what fits
Neal
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:26 PM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
24,600 Posts
I was thinking more a Slope/DS mouldie, Neal - the Siren is as far as I want to go for now with the Warmliner/Hotliner thing.

I'm running my Siren on a NanoTech 4S 2200mAh 35-90C LiPo. Fits in snuggly with a little bit of Dremel work to widen the battery bay a smidge. From memory, I needed to shave mine a tad due to resin from a previous repair (mine is pre-loved). If I do a little bit of soaring and don't run WOT all the time, I can return after 10 mins and still have 11+ V left in the battery.

I put a little piece of velcro on the LiPo, and a bigger strip on the floor of the battery tray - just to keep the battery from moving.- then shove the LiPo up inside until it stops at the end of the woodwork. It's a bit of a fiddle to get the battery over the velcro without it catching while you're inserting it, but it's doable.

Whatever you choose to do, make 100% sure that the base of the LiPo can't come in contact with the back of the motor can (if you're going to use an outrunner). The donk will end up boring a hole in your battery and the smoke will come out. Lots of smoke

LoL.

I'm guessing here that my woodwork is fairly standard (someone else put it together), so what worked for me should work for you.

Or you could do what Demon did and omit the battery tray section completely - but you'll have to reinforce the whole bay with CF etc., as that area is integral to the fuze's strength and is where the front and rear wing mounts are so it carries all the wing load. And, of course, ensure that your LiPo can't touch the rear of the motor..

BJ
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Smoke, lots of smoke.....I am laughing my head off!!
I was hopeing to go bigger with the batts,BUT,, I will buy a couple of 2200s, and see where I go from there, thanks for the advice, and the laugh
By the way I am going with the Ammo 28-45-3600 inrunner with G/P gearbox
Neal
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:56 PM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
24,600 Posts
Sounds good

If you do the Demon mod, you'll probably be able to run slightly bigger batteries - not sure how you will get on with the CG though. The 4S 2200mAh seems to balance up ok as-is with the LiPo all the way forward. And as you'll see, there's not really all that much room in there to move around in, whether you use the stock woodwork or do the mod - once you hit the rear wing saddle area, that's about as far back as you can go (should you need to).

Past that, you'd need to mod that area too to ensure strength, and there's not really any benefit going aft of the wing rear saddle, as the fuze starts to narrow down from there quite quickly...

BJ

PS: Don't let the smoke come out... LoL
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 07:51 PM
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OK,, Just had a look at dynamic slope soaring... that is bloody awesome stuff, I can see why youre getting into that!

As for the Siren just ordered some 12.00 M/G, give them a try, I am only planning to replace the firewall and run some carbon around the nose and wing saddle, and do a wing joiner mod for now, I really dont want to go much further than that, I want to take it a bit easy as this is my first plane of this kind.
And I am sure this will keep me happy for a while to come.
Neal.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 08:09 PM
The wheels touch down FIRST??
BJ64's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2009
24,600 Posts
Yep - if it's all set-up correctly, it will fly itself out of a handlaunch - and you're away

My landings are still a bit hot, though. I'm a bit weary since it tip stalled and cartwheeled coming in a bit too slow one day. No real damage to speak of - just flicked one of the tips off and bruised the wing area around the front saddle mount point.

You're gonna love the sound of this thing when you come overhead on a motor-off fast pass

BJ

PS - did I say "Don't let the smoke come out" yet? LoL
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