Yippee! Walkera 4 pictures and modifications

[rotarypower3]

Here's some pics of mine. No real mods yet, just the essentials to keep her flying! G109 blade springs and a custom tail stay to stop me smashing tail rotors!! And some "Tower Pro" 9g servos to replace the jittering walkera messes!

The one in the background is the spares machine with like90 blades for when I eventually learn to fly properly!

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[mazakari]

rotoary, Thats cool, I wish my wife would let me buy a spare.

Your heli with the Like90 blades, it looks like you have the standard head stiffener fitted. From experience I would change it for something stiffer. I found that the heli wobbled quite a bit using the standard one - upgraded and it cured the vibrations instantly.
Just a thought as a stiffner costs a lot less than a new pair of Like90's.

Jon

[rotarypower3]

Hey Jon,
I just explained to the wife that it was cheaper to buy a spare heli for parts, than to buy all the parts seperatly! She was surprising ok with that!

The like90s are esentially just sitting on there. I just had to see what they would look like! Definatly won't be flying with them mounted like that!

I've looked at all of the pics of yours, how have you actually mounted them?
Because it looks like you're still using the standard nuts which sit in the top of the head??? Don't these just pull out???

Ta
Mark


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[mazakari]

Hi Mark,

I have just mounted them on top of the head with a stiffener. I have put in long bolts which go straight through it all with lock washers and nuts underneath. Its as simple as that.

[rotarypower3]

Yeah, but how did you attach the standard nuts to the head? In the pic below you can see how the standard nuts sit in the top of the head.... so looking at your pic you would be able to just pull up on the blades, and have them and the head stiffener lift away from the head???

[mazakari]

Ahh, I see your point. I am using a head off a Twister (a clone here in the UK) but looking at my old Walkera head I would insert the plastic bolts into the holes and then file (if needed) the top of the head/plastic nuts down and place a thin washer between the head and the blade bottom. I would then do the same as I have done now and use a stiffener and long bolts.
You may have to drill the plastic nuts through just to give you clearance for the bolt.
I'm at work at the moment but I can do some pictures when I get home if you want.

Jon.

[rotarypower3]

We have the Twister down here as well.(what a ripoff!) Now I know why I couldn't understand how you'd mounted them!

I've just cheated for now, and mounted them as below. Mounting like this seems to keep the head flex right down.

I can't believe how good these blades seem to be with a quick hover, they sound awsome!!! For the first time ever I've actually got too much tail rotor thrust, I think I'll have to start playing with the adjuster on the 4in1....

[mazakari]

Ingenious. The way I said before would require a small bush underneath aswell. I'll do some exploded view pictures of it in case you decide you want to change it because you really need to get rid of that stiffener to make the head a little more ridgid. Give me a few minutes and I'll see what I come up with although my ideas always seem to weigh alot.

[mazakari]

OK, I have taken some pictures - not very good because the camera at work is pants. All the parts used are out of my 'gash' box so screws are to long, blade is an old standard one etc but you'll get the idea.
taking it from the top :
1. Screw/bolt :long enough to go through all items.
2. Stiffener :self explanatory
3. Blade
4. Plastic nut : The one that fits into the head.
5. Head
6. Bushing :This is so the nut clamps down on the head rather than
the plastic nut. (It'd just pull out otherwise).
7. Old stiffener :The stiffer the better!! Use in same place as normal.
8. Nut :Washers are optional as you are clamping onto metal anyway.

Hope that helps and doesn't confuse things further.

Jon

[Biffa]

Hello guys,

Previously showed you all the bits of mine, heres a few pics of it comming together Sadly tho the Rexy landing skids aint as tough as they look, gonna have to buy some more

Still need to fit the tail blade properly and make a new antenna cos I broke the red one, and a couple of other bits, but it seemed to hover real nice till the wind picked up and the skids broke anyways, she'll be up and running soon as I get time.

[mazakari]

Biffa, what battery do you use with your heli. In one of your previous posts you said you were using a 300 motor and you also had a 12 tooth pinion.
My standard motor (RK-370SD) seems happier with the 11 tooth pinion I fitted but because of the high speed its running at it is causing glitching in the tail.
I either need a 12 tooth pinion or a motor (maybe a 300) that is happier running at speed. Will the 300 motor take to my 11.1V LiPo without going 'PoP' ?
And just one more question. Where did you get your motor/pinion from because I'm struggling to find anyone that does a 12 tooth pinion to fit.

Cheers

Jon

[Biffa]

I'm using an ETEC HP 1700 mAH 2S 7.4v, heres a link for the peeps I got it off http://www.brchobbies.com/ I got the motor, like 90's, heat sink, pinion from here http://www.electrichelicopters.co.uk...gory~1488.aspx in fact I have got a few bits from Glyn at the above link, both guys Glyn and Brian from BRC are most helpfull.

I'm still using the 10t pinion the motor come with, I noticed an imediate difference between the stock motor and the GWS 300, when I get a pinion puller I'll have a swap about and report back.

For the brief go I had today, before yet again another crash, I didn't notice any glitching at all, and the hover and tail were solid, I think though I'm going to have to remove the ratchet from the throttle on the TX because it's either not quite enough or too much throttle, I have real trouble getting it somewhere in between.

As for the motor going pop on 11.1v I can't give a definative answer, my understanding of these micro's is the motors are always run at a higher voltage than they should be anyway, unless you go brushless of course, thats how they get a good power to weight ratio with the bits and bobs they use, although I could be wrong. The issue for me was runtime and not power as such, I got so fed up with running for 5 mins on the stock batts, if need be I'd rather go up a pinion than up the voltage.

Biffa.

[mazakari]

Cheers for the link. I've not seen their site before. I did try running several 7.4V battery's on my heli but it was just not powerful enough to get me out of ground effect. Thats what you get for having a fat heli.
For the price of them I may just try changing the motor.
Bad news about your crash and I'm supprised about your skids. but I'M sure it was bad luck rather than being fragile.

Jon

[Biffa]

Bad luck, more like bad thumbs still it's all part of the learning process...or maybe I need a bigger garden. I bought the essential upgrades 1 from Glyn @ Electricheli's but I'm sure he would just do a motor and pinion.

[mazakari]

OK I have just ordered a 12 tooth pinion from Sussex Model Center. It cost £1.25 and the postage was going to be £2.50!!!!!!!!!!
So the only thing I could do was go back and chuck a speed 300 motor in the cart aswell so at least I was getting my moneys worth out of the postage.
I think the 12 tooth pinion will sort my heli - I don't want to change the motor, its like an old friend but if I do I'll stick the 11 tooth on and see what happens. I NEED SPEED and hopefully the speed 300 will give it to me with a no load rpm of 29000 compared to the RK-370SD's of 16500.
Now wheres that postman.....................what do you mean its 0100 am. I need my spares!!!!!!!!!

Jon