Hummer 3D Pro ?

ozace · Apr 05, 2005, 05:06 AM

I have been playing for a week and would like to know if anyone other than Century reps have been able to get smoothness out of the 3dpro.
I have spent a fair bit of time with this one and the tail is not pretty.
As has been reported by others, the tail gearbox loves to rotate, so far i have not had a destructive one but it is close. The gears mesh very nicley but at 1/3 throttle the vibs begin. It comes purely from the tail gb that i am sure of. i now have a screw holding the gb to the boom as the alignment lugs have worn away. The heli is sitting in the shed right now running on a big pack to see if the gears will bed in and smoothen out. So far the heli has had 2 very low hs flights but i am not game to try a proper flight until i sort this out.
The Version i have is the one with the upgraded boom bearing but i think i read that there is a new style tail gb here or comming.
I hope an independant party can enlighten me as to what to try next.

adam

ozace · Apr 05, 2005, 06:40 AM

I ran the heli, no blades, top or rear for 1 hr to settle the gears in. Seems to have worked quite well. The heli can now be spun up to full throttle with the tail blades on without shaking itself to bits. Tomorrow i will try again without the mains to see if all is well. If it works i will put the mains on and give it a try.
So far i have managed to not break a single part, but i do have 2 screws holding the tail gb on to the boom to stop rotation.
More fun tomorrow

adam

skeppley · Apr 05, 2005, 09:17 AM

Hey Adam, my tail gears took a few packs to smooth out, but run like a charm now. The stock swash will also cause some vibes and shakes, for about 10 or 15 packs, especially on hard cyclic you will notice it. It smooths out too on its own. When you spool it up today without the mains, be sure not to give it more than half throttle, or you may have a paddle fly through your hand, and stick into your wall, and have your girlfriend B**chin at ya.

Been there

Hoverup · Apr 05, 2005, 11:15 AM

Removed the tail assembly and ran the gears in using my Dremel. Removed the front drive pinion and chucked the drive shaft up and ran it in for about 25 minutes in 5 minute increments. Tore the T/R gear box down and flushed it out, lubed it with white litium grease, reassembled it and it's smooth as silk now. Did the same on my Stretch variant with the same results.

ozoneone · Apr 05, 2005, 01:10 PM

My tail blew itself apart. After getting replacement parts and putting back together myself, the tail seems very smooth at least for now. The setscrews in the metal gears seem to be locktited with a welding torch. Nothing (heat, soaking in Liquid Wrench, etc.) freed them up. The supplied allen wrench turned into a "Twizzler" trying to get them out. I took a picture and will post it later. I hope I never buy an assembled heli again, but the manufacturers don't seem to want to offer kits anymore. Horay for Align, I'll put it together myself thank you!

ozace · Apr 05, 2005, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozoneone

My tail blew itself apart. After getting replacement parts and putting back together myself, the tail seems very smooth at least for now. The setscrews in the metal gears seem to be locktited with a welding torch. Nothing (heat, soaking in Liquid Wrench, etc.) freed them up. The supplied allen wrench turned into a "Twizzler" trying to get them out. I took a picture and will post it later. I hope I never buy an assembled heli again, but the manufacturers don't seem to want to offer kits anymore. Horay for Align, I'll put it together myself thank you!

You made me Laugh. I also tried the supplied allen key , what a joke soft as straw. Mine is also welded in. I may have to order the whole tail assembly in parts to fix this issue if it is no better today.

ozoneone · Apr 05, 2005, 10:30 PM

ozace, the setscrew backed out almost too easily on the "hub" end of the tail rotor shaft. So all the time I wasted trying to get the gear off all I had to do was remove the hub. Still can't get the gear off! BUT be sure the ball bearings are firmly pressed itto place in the TGB. Here's a pic of the wrench:

ozace · Apr 05, 2005, 10:41 PM

I got home and gave it a try.

Sweet, it goes nice.
I am using a hyperion 10 amp speedy and it is doing very well.
The stock motor is holding up nicely. So far so good, but i need to spend more time sorting the align gyro.

ozoneone · Apr 05, 2005, 10:50 PM

Quote:

I am using a hyperion 10 amp speedy

Don't know that one. Looks great! How do you like the aluminum grips? What's up with that switch? (is that a switch?)

ozace · Apr 05, 2005, 10:55 PM

Hyperion is the new brand at acw (field programable with the e-meter)
the soft start is nice and it has a gov mode but i havnt tried it yet. THe esc has a switch on it which is a pain but its there.
I never tried the heli stock, as i did the setup bits i used the ali swash(sweet) and the blade grips (sweeeeet).
After the initial mucking about i have decided i am not a fan of arf helis. I would much rather assemble a kit and know what is going on than trust the heli to some poor soul on min wages.

theShark · Apr 05, 2005, 11:51 PM

cool...a switch

whats wrong with a switch? switch would come in handy when those freak accidents happen instead of trying to unplug a deans while avoiding rotor blades.

ozace · Apr 06, 2005, 12:39 AM

Switches are great on the planes but i find them a pain to mount on a heli.

mnowell129 · Apr 06, 2005, 11:40 AM

If you remove the front tail boom mount and egg out the holes in the aluminum frame, you can then reinstall the front tailboom mount further back, providing the right mesh on the tail drive pinion and bevel gear. The tail drive becomes immediately smooth with no run in required.
My stock motor burned up ( i think it had machining trash in it, so I'm not faulting the motor or century) so I replaced with a 2025-4200. 10 tooth
HPI-RS4 pinion (these fit the piccolo and the TREX, BTW).
3 cell apogee 1050/phoenix 25 ESC gives 8 minutes of awesome 3D, inverted hover, etc.
This setup pulls +9 degrees of pitch, no problem.
With the heat sink, the motor is about 150 degrees and the battery about
105 at the end of a flight.
It's a good idea to weigh the flybar paddles. one of mine was .6 gram heavier than the other and thus made a magnificent shake.
Just for fun the TREX landing gear fits if you drill the holes and put it on
computer circuit board standoffs. If you use shorter front standoffs, the tail clearance is fine.
mickey

WreckRman2 · Apr 06, 2005, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mnowell129

My stock motor burned up ( i think it had machining trash in it, so I'm not faulting the motor or century) so I replaced with a 2025-4200.

The magnet broke in my stock motor in a crash. Amazingly I stripped no gears but the motor sure did.

Hoverup · Apr 06, 2005, 12:37 PM

My stock BL Century motor froze in the first two minutes of flying causing the ESC to shut everything down. Contacted Century, returned the motor and got a free replacement. Good customer support, just funky, low quality motors I'm afraid.

Apr 05, 2005, 05:06 AM	#1
ozace Renewed interest Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Melbourne , Australia Posts: 8,918	Hummer 3D Pro ? I have been playing for a week and would like to know if anyone other than Century reps have been able to get smoothness out of the 3dpro. I have spent a fair bit of time with this one and the tail is not pretty. As has been reported by others, the tail gearbox loves to rotate, so far i have not had a destructive one but it is close. The gears mesh very nicley but at 1/3 throttle the vibs begin. It comes purely from the tail gb that i am sure of. i now have a screw holding the gb to the boom as the alignment lugs have worn away. The heli is sitting in the shed right now running on a big pack to see if the gears will bed in and smoothen out. So far the heli has had 2 very low hs flights but i am not game to try a proper flight until i sort this out. The Version i have is the one with the upgraded boom bearing but i think i read that there is a new style tail gb here or comming. I hope an independant party can enlighten me as to what to try next. adam

Apr 05, 2005, 10:30 PM	#7
ozoneone King of The Moon Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: NYC Posts: 667	ozace, the setscrew backed out almost too easily on the "hub" end of the tail rotor shaft. So all the time I wasted trying to get the gear off all I had to do was remove the hub. Still can't get the gear off! BUT be sure the ball bearings are firmly pressed itto place in the TGB. Here's a pic of the wrench: Attached Thumbnails 28.5 KB · Views: 208

Apr 05, 2005, 10:41 PM	#8
ozace Renewed interest Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Melbourne , Australia Posts: 8,918	I got home and gave it a try. Sweet, it goes nice. I am using a hyperion 10 amp speedy and it is doing very well. The stock motor is holding up nicely. So far so good, but i need to spend more time sorting the align gyro. Attached Thumbnails 71.7 KB · Views: 212 48.3 KB · Views: 208 73.5 KB · Views: 209 34.1 KB · Views: 209

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Apr 05, 2005, 06:40 AM	#2
ozace Renewed interest Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Melbourne , Australia Posts: 8,918	I ran the heli, no blades, top or rear for 1 hr to settle the gears in. Seems to have worked quite well. The heli can now be spun up to full throttle with the tail blades on without shaking itself to bits. Tomorrow i will try again without the mains to see if all is well. If it works i will put the mains on and give it a try. So far i have managed to not break a single part, but i do have 2 screws holding the tail gb on to the boom to stop rotation. More fun tomorrow adam

Apr 05, 2005, 09:17 AM	#3
skeppley 2 Turbos...Nope 1 Big one Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auburn PA Posts: 1,496	Hey Adam, my tail gears took a few packs to smooth out, but run like a charm now. The stock swash will also cause some vibes and shakes, for about 10 or 15 packs, especially on hard cyclic you will notice it. It smooths out too on its own. When you spool it up today without the mains, be sure not to give it more than half throttle, or you may have a paddle fly through your hand, and stick into your wall, and have your girlfriend B**chin at ya. Been there

Apr 05, 2005, 11:15 AM	#4
Hoverup Mercedes C63 AMG heli hauler Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Golden Gulf Coast Posts: 8,716	Removed the tail assembly and ran the gears in using my Dremel. Removed the front drive pinion and chucked the drive shaft up and ran it in for about 25 minutes in 5 minute increments. Tore the T/R gear box down and flushed it out, lubed it with white litium grease, reassembled it and it's smooth as silk now. Did the same on my Stretch variant with the same results.

Apr 05, 2005, 01:10 PM	#5
ozoneone King of The Moon Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: NYC Posts: 667	My tail blew itself apart. After getting replacement parts and putting back together myself, the tail seems very smooth at least for now. The setscrews in the metal gears seem to be locktited with a welding torch. Nothing (heat, soaking in Liquid Wrench, etc.) freed them up. The supplied allen wrench turned into a "Twizzler" trying to get them out. I took a picture and will post it later. I hope I never buy an assembled heli again, but the manufacturers don't seem to want to offer kits anymore. Horay for Align, I'll put it together myself thank you!

Apr 05, 2005, 10:55 PM	#10
ozace Renewed interest Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Melbourne , Australia Posts: 8,918	Hyperion is the new brand at acw (field programable with the e-meter) the soft start is nice and it has a gov mode but i havnt tried it yet. THe esc has a switch on it which is a pain but its there. I never tried the heli stock, as i did the setup bits i used the ali swash(sweet) and the blade grips (sweeeeet). After the initial mucking about i have decided i am not a fan of arf helis. I would much rather assemble a kit and know what is going on than trust the heli to some poor soul on min wages.

Apr 05, 2005, 11:51 PM	#11
theShark Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 791	cool...a switch whats wrong with a switch? switch would come in handy when those freak accidents happen instead of trying to unplug a deans while avoiding rotor blades.

Apr 06, 2005, 12:39 AM	#12
ozace Renewed interest Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Melbourne , Australia Posts: 8,918	Switches are great on the planes but i find them a pain to mount on a heli.

Apr 06, 2005, 11:40 AM	#13
mnowell129 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,869	If you remove the front tail boom mount and egg out the holes in the aluminum frame, you can then reinstall the front tailboom mount further back, providing the right mesh on the tail drive pinion and bevel gear. The tail drive becomes immediately smooth with no run in required. My stock motor burned up ( i think it had machining trash in it, so I'm not faulting the motor or century) so I replaced with a 2025-4200. 10 tooth HPI-RS4 pinion (these fit the piccolo and the TREX, BTW). 3 cell apogee 1050/phoenix 25 ESC gives 8 minutes of awesome 3D, inverted hover, etc. This setup pulls +9 degrees of pitch, no problem. With the heat sink, the motor is about 150 degrees and the battery about 105 at the end of a flight. It's a good idea to weigh the flybar paddles. one of mine was .6 gram heavier than the other and thus made a magnificent shake. Just for fun the TREX landing gear fits if you drill the holes and put it on computer circuit board standoffs. If you use shorter front standoffs, the tail clearance is fine. mickey

Apr 06, 2005, 12:37 PM	#15
Hoverup Mercedes C63 AMG heli hauler Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Golden Gulf Coast Posts: 8,716	My stock BL Century motor froze in the first two minutes of flying causing the ESC to shut everything down. Contacted Century, returned the motor and got a free replacement. Good customer support, just funky, low quality motors I'm afraid.