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Get some aerostart but it's also marketed also as "START YA BAS....
" (true name!)They are ether based, and you just squirt in in the intake for a second or so, and it'll start first pull . If an engine with spark won't start with it, it'll never run! A couple of 2 stroke facts for you guys. 2 strokes do indeed suck, squeeze, bang and, er, blow , they just do it differently. Valves are used in them, reed, or rotary disc for the inlet, but aren't compulsory as you can use the piston skirt itself to close the inlet. Most of your whipper snipper/mower type 2 strokes use the latter "piston ported" as it's cheap and as they generally run at fixed RPM they are timed to suit that RPM. They can also be used on the exhaust ports, guillotine or rotary valve to adjust the height (timing) and also the area of the exhaust port to help broaden the power curve. Too much oil when premixed, does not make a "safer" mix as you are only displacing the fuel itself, so you can still seize from overheating due to a lean burn. The engine will be plenty oiled as you take it aprt to fix it though I threw that last one in as I hear the opposite every now and again in my trade, and it annoys me I'd say the problem is worn rings/low compression: What happens when initially starting a 2 stroke with leaking rings is when the piston is going up it creates a low in the crankcase drawing air and fuel into it. If the rings aren't sealing (or the crank seals are worn, or a leaking barrel gasket, or the crankase itself) not all of the "mixture" in the crankcase that will end up being burnt in the cylinder has come from the carburettor, meaning a weak or lean mixture. Combine that with the fact you need a richer mixture anyway when cold you now have one stubborn possesed whipper snipper!! When it gets real bad you'll find that it will struggle when hot too. You find that by pouring some fuel into the cylinder helps because you have just turned on the "choke" the old fashioned way. Oil will have a similar effect when poured into the cylinder as it helps the rings seal. assuming you have the choke circuit clean I'd say this is your problem. These engines have so few parts, but ALL of them need to pull their weight for gardening bliss to occur! Just get some of the ether based products as fishnut first said, and forget about the stupid thing! Cheers Paul Edit: Try to pull the cord as fast as you can and don't let it stop between pulls may help. Get that thing spinning fast! |
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Port Washington, Wi. USA. Next to the Black hole Lake Michigan
Joined Dec 1998
42 Posts
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2 Cycle
Another thing to check is the exhaust ports to make sure thet they are not filled up with carbon from all the oil that is ran throught the engine over the years. Remove the muffler if there is one and look at the holes. If they are plugged take a knife and open them up.
Mowman |
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Joined Dec 2003
781 Posts
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The first thing to check on a used 2 cycle engines that wont start well is the piston condition.
I used to work in a saw shop and would watch people spend hours chasing down problems with the carb, ignition ect.., only to find that the piston was scored( junk). It does not matter how small, if its scored, its no good. I would say most of the damage I would see on 2 cycle engines was piston scoring from running too little or no oil in the fuel. Pull off your muffler , look in the exhast port and slowly pull the starter cord. You will see any scoring if its there. When ever I work on any 2 cycle engine I go in this order: Check the piston the exhast for blockage the compresion the ignition and fuel I find if I go in this order I waste the least amount of time and money. |
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