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Old Feb 18, 2005, 06:34 PM
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Bill Germanson's Avatar
JAX, FL
Joined Feb 2002
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Question on servo setup for a full house wing

I'm working on my Adriana and have a few questions about installation of the servos in the wing. I will have 4 servos with the ailerons and flaps all on their own channels.

1. Would you guys open up the round holes in the wing so you don't have to cut the tabs off of the servos? I'm going to be using what I have which is 4 3102's and I hate to chop them...

2. Do you guys lay out the servos in any particular way (servos all pointed out, or in or all laying the same way)? I have a computer radio (9CAP) but I'm curious if there will be something that is made easier with full-house setup if the servos are set in a specific way.

3. What amount of torque would you say would be acceptable for the servos on the flaps and ailerons? The instructions just say Pico servos and a std Pico is about 10 oz in. In fact the instructions say Pico's all around and I can't imagine that being enough for the v-tails.

Thanks Guys,

Bill
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Last edited by Bill Germanson; Feb 18, 2005 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2005, 08:31 PM
xtc
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no-where near tx
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http://www.hobby-lobby.com/servomount.htm have a look at least ,there are a few options but the idea is to not have to glue the servos in permanently
myself ,,i use hitec hs 55 or hs 81servos and glue them in wrapped in maskingtape [no lugs]

xtc
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Old Feb 18, 2005, 08:56 PM
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fishs eddy n.y.
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You can enlarge the opening, but it may reduce the wing strength. I would recommend useing some Hitec hs85's as the 3102's are a bit big. As far as the layout goes, I try to have all servos with the bottoms facing the fus, with servo output towards the TE.

Doug
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Old Feb 18, 2005, 08:58 PM
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patagonia,az
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what's the construction of the Adriana ?? wood sheeted foam ??

on my Art Hobby Serenity 2.5m weight about 63 oz I use Hitec HS56 on the V-tail and ailerons and so far ok. so small servos do work, also use them on High Aspect 3m with x-tail.

used HS81 on flaps because they get more abuse dragging along the ground.

usually servos are put in symmetrically (ie if one aileron servo has the servo arm closest to the tip then do the same with the one on the other side) similarly for flaps.

I'm not a fan of gluing servos in just 'cos you might want to repair it at the field and undoing 3 little screws is so easy.

Philip
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Old Feb 18, 2005, 09:42 PM
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Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
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What they said mostly..

1. - what are you saving the servos for? Cut the lugs!
2. - symmetrical - usually, the horn end pointing "out", away from the root..
3. - certainly "enough" when you have one on each half of the elevator/rudder. I'd use something a little bigger on flaps at least, but it's a sailplane, not a hotliner. I'm probably using Dymond D60's in the wing on mine, and HS55's in the tail..

I usually wrap my servos in lightweight heatshrink, and goop them in place - foam will melt with goop, however, so I might use epoxy..
..a
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Old Feb 21, 2005, 11:26 AM
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goop will melt the foam so there are a few ways to get around this and still use goop.

1. epoxy fiberglass into the bottom of the wing. You may want to do this anyway as the goop WILL cause a small deformation in the surface of the wing where its applied.

2. Smear a bit of goop on the servo and smear a bit inside the wing. And I do mean smear use just enoug to cover the servo side and the place where its going to stick. Then stick them together. You will still have a bit of working time so don't worry about rushing it...
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Old Feb 21, 2005, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soholingo
epoxy fiberglass into the bottom of the wing. You may want to do this anyway as the goop WILL cause a small deformation in the surface of the wing where its applied.
What from, heat? I've used goop everywhere and have not seen a problem except for that lingering smell..
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Old Feb 21, 2005, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift
What from, heat? I've used goop everywhere and have not seen a problem except for that lingering smell..
the smell is probably what's causing the indentations. I have done a lot of wings with goop, some have the indentations, others don't. And my wings run the gamut from balsa/obeechi laminated foam wings to fully molded wings (as do yours) goop gets some of them, others it doesn't. You should share your technique for applying goop, as it seems to be effective in not causing the indentations...

j
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Old Feb 21, 2005, 02:16 PM
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Bill Germanson's Avatar
JAX, FL
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Guys, thanks for all the help. I ended up enlarging the servo cutouts so I wouldn't have to cut the 3102's (picture below). Would have required some cutting anyway since I didn't want to spend money or wait for some smaller servos. I glassed the servo pockets and will be wrapping the servos with heatshrink and will be using goop, epoxy or hot glue to hold them in.

Another question. What do you guys think about these control rod ends that came with the Adriana (picture below). Basically you drill a shallow 4mm hole in the aileron/flap and then the directions say to use CA to make them permanent. There is a small flange that stops the little aluminum nut from going in past the surface. There is also a machined surface to the nut that looks like it will help them grip the wood. There is a larger nut in the picture also that is to be used for the wing holddown. I could just use regular control horns but if these will work I'd rather not put the plastic backs on top of the control surfaces (less pretty )
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Old Feb 22, 2005, 03:19 PM
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Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
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They do work - I used them for the first time on my Fortune. They take some trimming to get installed right..
..a
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Old Feb 22, 2005, 03:50 PM
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Goop, or E-6000, has a really high shrink rate, so it caused some indentations in a molded plane of mine a few years back, sorta "sucked" the skin in.Still flew great. Dont worry about gluing the servos in. You can do things like wrapping the servo in tape or shrink wrap so that if you need to get in there you can get the servo out. I havent seen too many gear swaps at the field, but I have seen servos come out from a hard landing, or leaving the flaps down on touchdown, or flutter. If you have to remove the servo some careful taping will usually get you back in service. Or you can get "Servo Cans" from HiTec.
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Old Feb 23, 2005, 04:52 AM
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Take a look at how I made the servo wells on my ELF.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5&page=2&pp=30

This way all you have to do is to shrink wrap the servos and silicone them in. The rigid wall of the servo well will help hold everything in place.
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Old Feb 23, 2005, 06:42 AM
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Bill Germanson's Avatar
JAX, FL
Joined Feb 2002
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Andy, thanks for the info on using those nut things. I'm still thinking about it because I'm just concerned that they won't last long especially on the flaps...

Slope, I was thinking that the heat of the goop drying was caused the problems with the top skins wrinkling. The shrinking makes more sense. I wonder if the glassing of the pockets would keep the shrinking goop from wrinkling the top?

Nice job Alfred. Never thought about using 77 to tack the glass down before the epoxy. I will try it next time.

Thanks again guys. I'm hoping to get the wing and tail linkages done this week and will post back how things went.
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Old Feb 23, 2005, 12:04 PM
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Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
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Looking at yours again, Bill, I don't think the ball link is appropriate for flaps. You'd be hard pressed to get full flap deflection. You might want to think about using traditional horns on at least the flaps..
..a
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Old Feb 23, 2005, 03:10 PM
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Bill Germanson's Avatar
JAX, FL
Joined Feb 2002
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Good point Andy. There are new enough strikes against these things that I'll probably just go with the traditional control horns. Hope to get the wongs wrapped up tonight...

What would you guys do to make sure you end up with 110 degree angle between the v-tails? I was going to just cut a piece of cardboard to a 110 degree angle and set it between the v-tails while the glue drys.
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