Here is Part 16 of the on going Multiplex Easy Star.


Here is the link to Part 15 - Eaststar 15 - The New Generation

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323760


Brandie

Actually, I've never taken any running steps to launch the EZ. I just give the EZ about 75% throttle, point the nose into the wind and give her a light toss. On all but the calmest of days it is instant climbout, no swooning toward the turf at all.

In fact, I rather enjoy the easy, relaxed launches with the EZ. And on calm days I rather enjoy buzzing around the field about 2 meters off the grass at about 1/3 throttle. Mind you - it leaves no room for any booboo of any sort!

And thanks for starting the new thread, Brandie

BRANDIE.

Iv'e got to agree with you. "The Greatest Trainer Ever Created."

Cheers. Paddy.

The rain stopped here late this afternoon. So I grabbed a couple of plains and headed for my flight site.

I put my 'charged' battery in my EZ and took to the skies. After some high altitude flights followed by some power dives for loops and inverted flights I decided to do some high speed low level speed runs. I was screaming down the road/runway at about 10 feet off the ground. Fantastic

After the battery died I brought him in for a skid on the pavement.

I decided it was time to make a new movie. I put the 2c lipo in him and adjusted the battery for the CG with the camera on him.

There still was no wind.

I pressed power on the camera. (I found out later I forgot to put it in video mode). I made one last pre-flight check.
Pressed record (only took a picture )
Gave him a toss and started making a new movie.
I performed several close to the ground (5-10 feet) runway runs. On my last low level run I glanced down at the transmitter just as I was pulling up and to the right getting ready to do another low level run when to my horror my transmitter (Futaba TX with a power meter) showed almost no power. Just as I glance back up I notice I am about 50 feet up when he does a nose dive down.

I can still hear the motor running. The TX has no effect on him. When I get to him he is laying up side down motor running. He has a dented nose and a broken rudder. Camera is fine. I think, oh this going to be a great video. It isn't till I get home I find I forgot to press the mode button to go into video mode.

A little CA on the rudder, and a nice hot boiling bubble bath (hey it's Valentines Day) And he is good as new. Last thing I did was charge the TX batteries.

Brandie

Originally Posted by TreeTrimmer

And thanks for starting the new thread, Brandie

You are most welcome

Originally Posted by oldpilot

BRANDIE.

Iv'e got to agree with you. The Greatest Trainer Ever Created.

Cheers. Paddy.

It really is a great plane. Especially if you have the batteries charged

Brandie

Originally Posted by oldpilot

3. Semi flexible means it will absorb shock better than a rigid coating such as resin.

4. A rigid substrate, such as a balsa lining is a waste of time, as a really bad "Arrival" will only cause the balsa to fail in compression. A lining of bi-directional packaging tape on both the inside and outside is preferable by far. It enables the foam to absorb the shockload in compression without the sideways expansion which is capable of fracturing the foam internally.

EPP foam, and it's deritives such as Elapor and Arcel are very strong in compression but not in tension. The Fibre re-inforced packaging tape provides the tensile strength to "Contain" the expansion of the foam on impact.
In order to get the maximum adhesion of the tape to the Elapor , it has to be lightly sanded with 400 grit paper to remove the mold release lubricants, and then preferably spraying with a very light coating of 3M 77 adhesive, allowing it to dry before applying the tape. Then Iron the tape down with low temp Iron (100 deg C) to get MAX adhesion.

Now some of you may think this is a lot of bother, but it can save your "Pride and Joy" from a horrible demise.

Cheers. Paddy.

OldPilot,

I agree with item 4 when considering a stock EZ. Tape inside is definitely the way to go. I don't agree when the outer shell is rigid or semi-rigid. The resin is the mechanical inverse of the foam; it is very strong in tension. But it takes very little compression to cause huge shear forces that will, I guarantee you from experience, crack or shatter the shell. Compression of a semi-rigid shell will crack paint or leave permanent creases or ridges that heat shrink won't cover. Hence, the balsa and glue stiffens the airframe against compression, so as to make the shell significantly more resistant to damage. It certainly won't save it from a hard nose in strike. Orb will be heading to the repair shop for an extended session if he does that with a carbon coated EZ.

Originally Posted by CRASHED AGAIN

I gotta agree with your grandson

Jack

edit : hey U have a tractor on that??????????

Yep - If you look closely, you can count all three motors.

Hey EZ* folks! If you're one of those wise ones or not, please feel free to render your predictions about the flight performance of these two setups as compared to the stock Permax setup. Your opinions are valuable to me. Now I do not want to start any e-power wars, and I know that ZoomZoom will remain silent ... but feel free to have at it. Your participation is graciously requested.

SETUP ONE
QRP Hyper S400 Motor 6V
7-cell KAN 1050

SETUP TWO
MEGA 16/15/5
3s LiPo (11.1 volt)

Assume that both will use the 6x3 folder prop. Feel free to even add your own SETUP THREE (as long as you explain why).

Did I forget something? Yes! Thanks.
Peter

Hello Easy ones!

Brandie, here is a link to Twister2s post about using a timer to keep the TX batteries in good shape. I do this, and occasionally run them down till the red light comes on (low battery), then do an overnight charge, but this method keeps the batts ready to go. I can get over 6 hours from the stock Nicads in my laser 4 and neon txs.

Here is a link:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=61

Precisely one year ago I maidened my EasyStar in a windy beach.

It still has no major mods except the mandatory tape on the belly and on the nose. Only major repair was replacing the motor due to worn brushes.
It still flies great and it still is fun to fly, even though it got me addicted to sailplanes and I now fly planes that are 20 times more expensive (also about 10 times faster).
It is a great plane!

Happy Birthday to jcosta's easy star, I remember the video, very windy. tt

Originally Posted by omba

SETUP ONE
QRP Hyper S400 Motor 6V
7-cell KAN 1050

SETUP TWO
MEGA 16/15/5
3s LiPo (11.1 volt)

Assume that both will use the 6x3 folder prop.

I would go straight for the SETUP TWO...

However I am really happy with the stock motor and I will upgrade with a radical modification, as soon as possible: the EasyGlider Electric

Piero

TIME4RC

I Quite agree with you. I would never consider using fibreglass or WBPU on an EPP fuse or wing.

However, WBPU is excellent to use over extruded styrofoam, and is lighter than f/glass. It will not protect against a heavy crash ---but is good for protecting blue foam, pink foam, depron etc: from dings, scratches and the inevitable "Hanger Rash".

Cheers. Patrick.

Anyone ever try double sided tape or water-based contact cemenet to hold the two halves together? IIRC the RTF version has the fuse halves taped. A semi-permanent joint woul allow access for motor changes and repairs. When covered with 3m Extreme packing tape there's NO chance of delamination. FWIW I've played with using ProBond water based contact cement on Arcel and and it makes a strong yet flexible joint. You can seprate the pieces but it does take some force. And when covered with packing tape is as solid as the expoy fuses I've tried.

Whaddya all think? Should my ES be taped halves or water contact fastened??

Originally Posted by rutat

Anyone ever try double sided tape or water-based contact cemenet to hold the two halves together? IIRC the RTF version has the fuse halves taped. A semi-permanent joint woul allow access for motor changes and repairs. When covered with 3m Extreme packing tape there's NO chance of delamination. FWIW I've played with using ProBond water based contact cement on Arcel and and it makes a strong yet flexible joint. You can seprate the pieces but it does take some force. And when covered with packing tape is as solid as the expoy fuses I've tried.

Whaddya all think? Should my ES be taped halves or water contact fastened??

Hello rutat:

I think somewhere way back in one of the post I mentioned that my RTF EZ was put together with double sided tape.

To re-iterate in a Readers Digest way,.....

After my first crash I decided to tear my EZ apart down to just the foam. This was for his first big hot water bath to fix dings, smashes, and such.

It was then that I discovered that it was put together with double sided sticky tape.

This tape had a stretchy property though.

I began searching and found it is a very normal easy to find tape.

I found it at Staples.

It is called "Scotch Poster Tape".

It is sticky on both sides and stretches really great.

I used it to completely re-assemble my EZ.

That includes the fuselage halves as well as the rudder and elevator.

He has been flyin great ever since except when I forget to make sure the TX battery is charged

Brandie