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Old Aug 04, 2003, 03:38 PM
Real Men Fly Pink Planes...
kepople's Avatar
United States, TX, Rockwall
Joined Jun 2001
8,080 Posts
Beta Build: Stevens Aero Groove Pt.5

edit:
This is part 5 of a great thread that has gone well over 2000 posts long now. To make it easier to read and search for info it has been split up into 500 post parts. Part 4 can be found here.

Keep up the great work People!

Greg Gallegos
Ezone Moderator
/edit





Quote:
Originally posted by kepople
Correct me if I am wrong Bill, but these pants are worth the trouble, they weigh nothing, and thei coolest thing is the way they are designed, you dont have to use wheel collars.

They are even free standing...
Bill, I meant correct me about not needing wheel collars not if they were worth the trouble...They are definatley worth the trouble..

Kirby
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Last edited by GregG; Dec 24, 2004 at 12:20 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 08:37 AM
Glow Free Since Aug, 2005
tommy321's Avatar
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Joined Aug 2004
1,258 Posts
Hey Beagle,
Do the pull pull. After you're done, you'll never go back to long pushrods again. I find they seem snappier and have less play than pushrods. I think that one trick is to select a servo head that has the same diameter as the control horn you're using. This will keep the two lines as close to parallel as possible. That way there will be very little slack in the "limp" line when the you deflect the surface.

Regarding CG, I had gotten the impression that people were having to move batteries far aft in the battery bay when using the 2808. So I went with a rear mounted elevator servo, and I mounted my rudder servo on the bottom of the fuse about 5 inches aft of the stock position. (See my pics in the previous posts). I find I need to place my battery (Apogee 2480 (~5.5oz)) right at the front of the battery compartment to get the CG at the aft edge of the spar. I'll probably slowly move it aft as I get more flights on the plane.

Long story short, if I were to do it again, I'd go with rear mounted elevator servo, and probably my rudder mounted inside the fuse.

Tom
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Last edited by GregG; Dec 24, 2004 at 12:21 AM.
Old Dec 21, 2004, 08:59 AM
Live to fly!
doc-e's Avatar
United States, NJ, Fair Lawn
Joined Nov 2002
3,072 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy321
Long story short, if I were to do it again, I'd go with rear mounted elevator servo, and probably my rudder mounted inside the fuse.

Tom
Ditto!
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 09:20 AM
Glow Free Since Aug, 2005
tommy321's Avatar
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Joined Aug 2004
1,258 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mexico
Is it hard to setup the Pulls inside the fuse once the top deck (aft of cockpit) is sheeted? Seems like it makes access to the guide tubes almost impossible.
What if you string something through there before you sheet and secure it with some masking tape at each end. Then when you're ready for your pull pull you attach the pull pull thread to your string and pull it through. Only catch is you only get one shot at it. Depending on the size and number of holes you have to get it through, you can sometimes use a 0.032 pushrod to string stuff through the fuse.

I used the string trick for doing aileron servos in the wing panels. Tape string somewhere that you can reach it through the servo hole with tweezers. Then cover without the servos installed. When complete, use the string to pull the servo wires through.

Tom
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 02:58 PM
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NJ
Joined Aug 2003
8,892 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy321
What if you string something through there before you sheet and secure it with some masking tape at each end. Then when you're ready for your pull pull you attach the pull pull thread to your string and pull it through. Only catch is you only get one shot at it. Depending on the size and number of holes you have to get it through, you can sometimes use a 0.032 pushrod to string stuff through the fuse.

I used the string trick for doing aileron servos in the wing panels. Tape string somewhere that you can reach it through the servo hole with tweezers. Then cover without the servos installed. When complete, use the string to pull the servo wires through.

Tom
If you suggest running string or thread through the guides prior to sheeting as a means of pulling the actual pulls through later why not use the actual pulls now and save the step of hoping to fish them through later?
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 04:38 PM
PRO BRO #157
daking's Avatar
Sterling hts, Michigan
Joined Jun 2003
2,084 Posts
edit:
This is part 6 of a great thread that has gone well over 2500 posts long now. To make it easier to read and search for info it has been split up into 500 post parts. Part 5 can be found here. The last page is here

Keep up the great work People!

Greg Gallegos
Ezone Moderator
/edit



Ok...

MEX.............. Your trying to to put a stick mount in your groove. right? I used the circle on the firewall to line up the output shaft of the gear box. Lined up perfect. Just make sure to add o down thrust and 2 or 3 deg right thrust !! It's a bit harder to change it later.

Flyingbeagle......I have a mega in mine(2.7 oz). Then the added weight of the Cobri GB. I was a little worried about being nose heavy so i put my servo's in the tail. I had to make a new plate for the rear so i could mount both servo's back there. One on each side. Nice short linkage and the plane balance's 1/8 inch behind the spar with the back of the pack(tp 2100) at the back of the batt plate!

I made my first decal set !!! Not too bad but still a little fuzzy. They look good from a foot or two. Here are a few detail shot's of what i am talking about.
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Last edited by GregG; Feb 11, 2005 at 08:09 AM.
Old Dec 21, 2004, 04:46 PM
Does anyone hear a cat?
headless's Avatar
Tallahassee, FL
Joined Sep 2003
4,380 Posts
Daking, where do you place your battery to balance it with the mega up front in the cobri GB and rear mounted servo's? I had a g-480 w/ mega 16/15/3 but i used a 2.1oz all metal planetary GB to avoid having to fashion a stickmount; was way too heavy.
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 04:57 PM
PRO BRO #157
daking's Avatar
Sterling hts, Michigan
Joined Jun 2003
2,084 Posts
The plane balance's 1/8 inch behind the spar with the back of the pack(tp 2100) at the back of the batt plate.
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 05:42 PM
Registered User
mexico's Avatar
NJ
Joined Aug 2003
8,892 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by daking
Ok...

MEX.............. Your trying to to put a stick mount in your groove. right? I used the circle on the firewall to line up the output shaft of the gear box. Lined up perfect. Just make sure to add o down thrust and 2 or 3 deg right thrust !! It's a bit harder to change it later.
Sort of a stick mount. It is the Cobri flush mount. Like an aluminum stick attacked to a mounting plate.

Does the laser cut AXi mount have 2 or 3 degrees right thrust designed into it?
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 06:55 PM
Registered User
FlyBoyKB's Avatar
USA, OH, Cincinnati
Joined Dec 2003
284 Posts
Another Groove ready for covering! We're going away for Christmas so I won't get a chance to do much on it until next year now. The plane was my Christmas present from my wife so I can't finish it before Christmas. Thanks for everyones help and advise. And - Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.
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Last edited by FlyBoyKB; Dec 21, 2004 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Adding picture
Old Dec 21, 2004, 07:18 PM
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mexico's Avatar
NJ
Joined Aug 2003
8,892 Posts
Looks great. Love the spinner. I am finishing up the fuse. Just wet the sheeting for the battery hatch.
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 08:17 PM
PRO BRO #157
daking's Avatar
Sterling hts, Michigan
Joined Jun 2003
2,084 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mexico
Sort of a stick mount. It is the Cobri flush mount. Like an aluminum stick attacked to a mounting plate.

Does the laser cut AXi mount have 2 or 3 degrees right thrust designed into it?
The plane is built with 0 right thrust but, you will need some.
You might have to add some wood to the firewall for the bottom two screw's on that flush mount. I think it would be easyer to just make a mount like fredn or i did. Save that mount for a solid firewall.

Flyboy......Nice job!
Are you gonna sheet the top? I wish i had done mine! I dont like the look of the hatch to nose joint with just the stringer's.

Dennis
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 10:21 PM
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mexico's Avatar
NJ
Joined Aug 2003
8,892 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by daking
The plane is built with 0 right thrust but, you will need some.
You might have to add some wood to the firewall for the bottom two screw's on that flush mount. I think it would be easyer to just make a mount like fredn or i did. Save that mount for a solid firewall.

Dennis
If the plane is built with 0 right thrust why will "I" need some? Has Doc-e been showing people video of me flying?

BTW - Doc- I sheeted the battery hatch and the deck just aft of it tonight. Looks incredible. Like a fine piece of furniture. The more I sheet the less I want to cover up the wood. Stain with some clear covering on the fuse?
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Old Dec 21, 2004, 11:06 PM
Scott Stoops
sukhoi26mx's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2002
8,408 Posts
[QUOTE=mexico]If the plane is built with 0 right thrust why will "I" need some? [QUOTE]

To correct for spiral slipstream, of course... haven't you been reading? Seriously, I would add 2 degrees of right thrust, in fact, I did

Scott
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Old Dec 22, 2004, 07:01 AM
Live to fly!
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United States, NJ, Fair Lawn
Joined Nov 2002
3,072 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mexico
If the plane is built with 0 right thrust why will "I" need some? Has Doc-e been showing people video of me flying?
Do you want me to? I can post them in a heartbeat!

The Groove AXI mount does not nave any right/down thrust built into it. I find that my Groove needs its rudder offset to the right to compensate. Stella, on the other hand, has the right/down thrust built into the AXI mount and the stick mount...
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