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Old Feb 09, 2005, 12:25 PM
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Landkey, Devon, England.
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I must admit Herb I have been considering whether to go with fixed canards or have them operating. I need to make the change over to Lipos, but cant afford to do that just at the moment, so I am trying to get it together with what kit I allready have.

Having said that the weight of the operating system for the canards would be small, so I may well be tempted.

Ron
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Old Feb 09, 2005, 12:38 PM
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Herb, Thanks for the pointers, now you have got my interest at those prices. I have a 16/15/2 and 3 what would you suggest if running with the 3S lipos, I guess the 2?

Is the charger you refer to the TP425C @ $54.95 and the pack the 2000H 15C @69.50 euro,s

Ron
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Last edited by Ron Laden; Feb 09, 2005 at 12:55 PM.
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Old Feb 09, 2005, 01:18 PM
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Yes it's the TP 425, I had one for a month and it works like a charm. It will do a 6S also, if your pack is two 3S packs connected in series like mine are .

Keep in mind with LiPos you can charge on Monday and fly on Saturday, no "top off" needed.

Gordon might suggest a better European supplier for the Kokam 2000H 3S packs, you are better off getting an assembled pack than trying to solder single cells yourself. In the US I get mine from fma, www.fmadirect.com , or at the LHS.

Yes I think the Mega two turn should work well on 3S, if worse comes to worse you will have to throttle back after launch. Throttle management is generally a must with LiPos.
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Old Feb 09, 2005, 02:39 PM
Wof
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Ron part of the enjoyment of building planes like you are is the challenge, we can all buy'n'fly RTFs but the best bit is will it fly won't it i will be watching this thread for sure.

Mind you to get in the air quickly RTFs are good but not for me.

Mark (Essex)
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Old Feb 09, 2005, 05:46 PM
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Very nice Ron.
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Old Feb 14, 2005, 02:37 AM
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Landkey, Devon, England.
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Slow progress (long hours at work), but I have made and fitted the fan mounts and layed up the intake duct using brown parcel paper/pva (white glue).

Ron
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Old Feb 14, 2005, 03:42 AM
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Wow Ron, too .

Clearly drying the pva off in the airing cupboard worked. It looks marvellous. Is it pretty rigid, or will it need any stiffening? What's the internal finish like - smooth enough to paint and use?

Gordon
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Old Feb 14, 2005, 04:44 AM
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Hi Gordon,

I dried it off above a storage heater in the end worked really well.

The inside surface finish is quite good and shouldnt need much to finish it off. The dilema was whether to lay up enough layers until it was thick enough not to need any stiffening or to keep it light and add stiffeners later. I went for the latter and it is only two layers thick, three in places where some of the overlaps fell.

The last pic shows stiffening bands applied and a double layer of 0.4mm ply cyno,d around the outside edges front and rear. I will see how stiff it is when I remove it from the plug. If it needs more I can easily add them, but I want to try and achieve a balance of rigidity with not too much weight.

Ron
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Old Feb 14, 2005, 05:02 AM
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Forgot to say Gordon, it was not rigid enough when I first removed it from the plug, (2nd picture) but that is what I expected. So it is now back on the plug (3rd picture) having had the ply and stiffener bands added, I will see if it needs any more this evening.

Cheers
Ron
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Old Feb 14, 2005, 06:45 AM
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Very nice Ron

Lets have a bit more detail on how you did the duct, I have got a similar pair to make.

w.r.t. the canards, working ones please, that was the original idea to get some feel for how much movement is going to be required for the "full house version"

Have you seen the new RAF advert with the leading edge flaps deployed? another function to add. Retracts and flaps and balsa plaking will make mine a heap heavier than this version and the build is not going to be as quick.

Great modelling Ron
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Old Feb 14, 2005, 07:18 AM
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Wow

I hope you will have plans for this. I want one. The EuroFighter tops on my fav. Jet.

Chris
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 02:12 AM
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Landkey, Devon, England.
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Hi Robert,

Yes I am going with working canards operating from a couple of HS55,s and mixed into the elevons, may have them switchable, I did that on the "Duck".

It will probably take me as long to explain the method of producing the brown paper duct as it did to make it but here goes:

I covered the blue foam plug with clear sellotape and then pushed a pencil part way into each end so that I could support the plug on two blocks above the bench and also rotate it.

The adhesive mix is approx 3 parts pva (white glue) to 1 part water with a dash of acrylic colour which makes the visibility of what has been pasted easier.

I then cut a number of 3/4" wide strips of brown parcel paper a little longer than the plug. Three or four strips are laid on a flat washable surface (I used a piece of Conti board) and brushed with adhesive, they are left for a couple of minutes to soak. No more than 3 or 4 are done at a time otherwise they will start to dry by the time you come to use them.

A coat of adhesive is painted along the centre line of the plug and the first strip applied painting more adhesive over the top of the strip and smoothing down with the brush. Its then a case of working around the plug adding more strips, each one overlapping the previous one by about 5mm. You work around the plug until you have the required thickness, a final coat of adhesive is painted all over the surface and then put aside to dry. The paper shrinks and tightens nicely to the plug as it dries.

Using a flexible straight edge the moulding is cut along the centre line top and bottom and the two halves gently released from the plug. They are then fitted back on to the plug and one of the seams joined with a neat strip of sellotape, this acts as a hinge which allows the two halves to be prised open just enough to remove from the plug.

The plug is then cut horizontally into sections so that it can be assembled inside the moulding but removable later. With the plug assembled back inside the moulding the second joint is taped and the plug removed. Trying to join the two halves neatly off the plug is almost impossible.

The internal top and bottom joint is then sealed with a strip of paper applied with the adhesive and left to dry. I then assembled the plug inside the moulding again and added the 0.4 ply to the outer edges and the paper stiffening bands.

Thats it, sounds complicated but its quite easy, the longest part is the drying, I guess actual assembly time was not much more than a total of 90 minutes.

I removed the finished item from the plug last night and it looks good, quite light and fairly rigid. I will apply another coat of the pva mix to the inside and then paint.

Cheers
Ron
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Last edited by Ron Laden; Feb 15, 2005 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 03:31 AM
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Spot on, Ron ! A really inventive use of common (not to mention cheap) materials to simplify a difficult task.

Cutting the plug after moulding to make it disassemble-able (ouch) for finishing off is a nice touch. Have you a pic of the now-fragmented plug? Please don't be too shy to show it if there are now some rough edges on it. For a one-off it'll be less work to have any rough edges to the plug sections appear after the smooth moulding has been done and when it doesn't matter, rather than trying to dress them to a precise fit beforehand.

Bravo!

Gordon
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 03:34 AM
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Oh ... will you be going with your idea of a similarly-moulded brown paper/pva centrebody fairing so that you can leave the spinner off the Minifan?

Gordon
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 03:53 AM
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The Netherlands, DR, Emmen
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Ron looking good

Will this be a plan also to be published in Q&EFI ??

I will be following this closely.

Cheers,

Appie
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