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Old May 27, 2005, 11:47 PM
STeve B in NC
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North Carolina, USA
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmincin
Sure, no problem - I've never used a mill before this one.

Next time you're in WV stop on by and I'll give you the tour.

- And it will only cost you a measly little $10 entrance fee...
Need to get my financing some how... I'm sure you can understand...
Better watch out, WVa is not that far on the ST1100. I've done it over a weekend several times, and my wife owes me a weekend after her recent trip to the beach. I could bring along the Ricky bike and one of the 1/5 bikes also.
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Old Aug 11, 2005, 09:11 PM
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Well i put ricky back together.Just got to throw in some radio gear .He should be ready to go.
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Old Aug 11, 2005, 09:20 PM
mp-
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Napa, California
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706 Posts
Edwin,

That is one crazy Ricky C. bike. I would love to see video of that monster run...

mp-
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Old Aug 11, 2005, 10:00 PM
dammachines
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Feb 2004
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I can't remember, did you ever say how you planned to stop that monster?

I've held off converting mine to nitro because I was worried about the gyro gears going. Signats had 4 or 5 gears melt using a brushless and I would expect the nitro to do similar damage. Speaking of Signats, I sent him an aluminum hub to mount his melted gear on but never heard back from him.

My gyro replacement design changes the ratio from 1:6 to 1:4 in anticipation of greater wheel RPM with the nitro motor!

And YES, lets see some video!!!
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Old Aug 11, 2005, 10:41 PM
STeve B in NC
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North Carolina, USA
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmincin
I can't remember, did you ever say how you planned to stop that monster?

Dave,
Edwin's bikes stop by hitting immovable objects, or sometimes other moving objects that can't get out of the way quick enough. I think mine is the only nitro bike in our group that actually has brakes, which gives me a real advantage sometimes.

But then, I've pulled a "Valentino" on his bike more than once myself.

STeve B in NC
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp-
Edwin,

That is one crazy Ricky C. bike. I would love to see video of that monster run...

mp-
I'm going to try to.
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmincin
I can't remember, did you ever say how you planned to stop that monster?

I've held off converting mine to nitro because I was worried about the gyro gears going. Signats had 4 or 5 gears melt using a brushless and I would expect the nitro to do similar damage. Speaking of Signats, I sent him an aluminum hub to mount his melted gear on but never heard back from him.

My gyro replacement design changes the ratio from 1:6 to 1:4 in anticipation of greater wheel RPM with the nitro motor!

And YES, lets see some video!!!
Loook out no breaks. I counld't figure out how i was going to stop it.I was going to make an aluminum brace that would rub against the clutch bell.But because of the momentom of the gyro and back wheel spinning.Probably would have stripped the spur gear or something.If i did front disc breaks then i'm pretty sure the front rim would'nt last to long. any suggestions will be greatful. Well i did go with the third option. Like Steve said LOL.
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 10:05 AM
mp-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swheels
Loook out no breaks. I counld't figure out how i was going to stop it.I was going to make an aluminum brace that would rub against the clutch bell.But because of the momentom of the gyro and back wheel spinning.Probably would have stripped the spur gear or something.If i did front disc breaks then i'm pretty sure the front rim would'nt last to long. any suggestions will be greatful. Well i did go with the third option. Like Steve said LOL.

Edwin,

Doesn't the gyro freewheel when the wheel begins to decelerate? Am I missing something? In other words, if you brake the clutch bell, you're really only slowing the wheel, while the gyro continues to spin. I think your clutch bell brake idea will work. Might try teflon on the clutch bell as it can take the heat, and will apply friction smoothly.

mp-
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 10:12 AM
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Stuttgart
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what needs to happen is that guy who started the nitro MX bike on CNR's reader's rides page, needs to just start making those dope_ass spoked wheels for sale!! And finish that bike!
I think that clutchbell brake would work too, if you have't burnt up the gyro gears by now, just letting it freewheel isn't gonna hurt them either. Just my 2cents!
Tom
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 10:22 AM
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Well i tried this little expiriment. I gave it full throttle till the gyro and wheel got up to speed. Then i tried to grab the back tire to feel force it would take to stop that back wheel. Let's just say i almost lost a finger. LOL To top that all off i had previously drilled holes in the gyro to make it lighter.


Boy that grab the back wheel technic......uuuuhh wasn't to smart.LOL
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 12:28 PM
dammachines
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Feb 2004
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What about something like those "saturn" brakes that have been posted in another thread? If you could attach the rings to either side of the front wheel and have a front brake squeeze on them?

I'm still confused as to what part the gyro plays in braking the rear wheel. If the clutch shoes are working correctly, they should release the gyro wheel once the rear wheel starts to decelerate. I think...

If the electric motor pinion can stop without tearing up the spur gear I would think the clutch bell brake should work ok.

I'm planning to use a large one-way bearing in my new gyro design. It will end up being a bit longer than the current planetary gear box, but will also allow the use of either plastic or metal gears if they are needed.

Dave.
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 01:03 PM
Editor, RCCA
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The gyro does freewheel when off-power, so it should not have any effect. The RC10-GT used a brake shoe directly on the clutch bell, so I don't think it would be a problem in a Ricky. Plus, if too much braking force were applied, the slipper around the spur assembly would rachet a bit until it slowed down. Might wear the slipper a bit, but that's kind of what it was designed for.

Of course, I'm assuming that you kept the slipper setup in your modifications, instead of directly mounting the spur to the layshaft.
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 01:20 PM
dammachines
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Joined Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guidoracer
Plus, if too much braking force were applied, the slipper around the spur assembly would rachet a bit until it slowed down. Might wear the slipper a bit, but that's kind of what it was designed for.

Just wondering... Has anyone ever really seen that thing slip?

I grabbed the inside piece with pliers and tried to force it to turn and couldn't. Maybe it works, but it would definitely take some force to get it to slip. I would think on a stock bike the belt would slip first - I'll have to pull mine apart and see if the chain has caused any wear inside...

Dave.
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmincin
What about something like those "saturn" brakes that have been posted in another thread? If you could attach the rings to either side of the front wheel and have a front brake squeeze on them?

I'm still confused as to what part the gyro plays in braking the rear wheel. If the clutch shoes are working correctly, they should release the gyro wheel once the rear wheel starts to decelerate. I think...

If the electric motor pinion can stop without tearing up the spur gear I would think the clutch bell brake should work ok.

I'm planning to use a large one-way bearing in my new gyro design. It will end up being a bit longer than the current planetary gear box, but will also allow the use of either plastic or metal gears if they are needed.

Dave.
I think that the electric motor slows it down smoothly.But it will not lock up the back wheel.On some of my onroad bikes use that setup and it really wear that aluminum down pretty quick.But i think i'm going to try some breaks on the front wheel.It will be cool to see ricky with a front disc brake.
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Old Aug 12, 2005, 03:30 PM
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Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mollycbr123
Why did you decide to stand the engine up as opposed to having the cylinder facing forward?
Actually, I have always wondered why they put the cylinder facing forward in RC-bikes?
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