Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:06 PM
Making gravity dramatic
AugerIn_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Peshtigo
Joined Sep 2004
212 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
i think it was plastic melting but it really stunk and the battery was hot (being shorted out i guess!)

~Robert
Robert-

I think someone else mentioned it a few posts back that the Dean's Ultra are the plugs you want for the battery leads. FWIW, I doubt you ruined the battery if you caught it soon enough. Try cycling it slowly on your charger and see what happens (I'm sure you know all the safety guidelines so I won't presume to lecture ). And you're right, do one lead at a time with the other folded back until you've applied heat shrink to the base of the connector to prevent direct shorts.

I've done some bonehead things with my LiPo's a time or two and they work just fine. Hang in there and get that SS in the air!

-Brad
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:09 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,724 Posts
Thanks guys. I have the set screw tightened, but figure I should wait until I'm done building before I put the black plastic retainer clip on (so it won't "wear out").

I'm almost done building. I have to drill a hole in the "stick" to attach my himax 2025-4266. And I plan to use a drop of loctite on the shaft under the collet's fingers, and on the threads for the spinner.

Need to figure how to attach the receiver.

I think I'll wait before adding a third wing brace (under the center of the wing). I probably used too much epoxy, and the .125" carbon rods on the leading wing edge are very strong. I used the stock rods + epoxy on the TE. I used no packing tape on the TE yet. Not sure if I will use any. Probably good to keep rubber bands from damaging the wing's surface I suppose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AugerIn_
Block-

I use them with all my electrics requiring smaller diameter control rods and they've never let me down. I've even installed them on my HOB P-51D balsa kit and I've a lot of time invested in that build - and no worries as for how they hold up. They'll work fine.

-Brad
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:10 PM
Registered User
Zanesville, Ohio
Joined Jan 2004
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Block
Probably should only strip one wire at a time I suppose.
Thats all i stripped.. i had them both on and everything was good.. so i thought.. i took a drink of something and smelled something else burning.. i quickly ripped the leads apart breaking the dean connector......

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:17 PM
Registered User
Zanesville, Ohio
Joined Jan 2004
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AugerIn_
Robert-

I think someone else mentioned it a few posts back that the Dean's Ultra are the plugs you want for the battery leads. FWIW, I doubt you ruined the battery if you caught it soon enough. Try cycling it slowly on your charger and see what happens (I'm sure you know all the safety guidelines so I won't presume to lecture ). And you're right, do one lead at a time with the other folded back until you've applied heat shrink to the base of the connector to prevent direct shorts.

I've done some bonehead things with my LiPo's a time or two and they work just fine. Hang in there and get that SS in the air!

-Brad
Actually thats why i was hooking them up is to test the charger! im tempted ot charge it in the bathroom or somewhere that wont catch on fire too quickly LOL! (Just in case ya know!) :P

Ive never charged a LiPo but ive read some bad things about them. I wanted to start out with something less dangerous but the guy at the LHS talked me into it!!

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:26 PM
Making gravity dramatic
AugerIn_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Peshtigo
Joined Sep 2004
212 Posts
Robert-

I know the LiPo's have a stigma riding heavily on their reputation, but they really aren't that bad - I know, I know, "ask the guy whose house burnt down". I think they're becoming more safe as the industry grows and sure they should be handled with care, but they're really not that bad to work with. I keep mine in a steel can with sand in the bottom down in my unfinished basement when I'm not using them and when I'm charging.

Pound for pound they can't be beat and usually a slight mistake isn't devastating (I'm going to get pounded for this), just use your head and take precautions.

LOL, the tub is a good alternative to a charging box

You won't regret running LiPo's - have fun and get some Dean's Ultras.

-Brad
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:26 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
Actually thats why i was hooking them up is to test the charger! im tempted ot charge it in the bathroom or somewhere that wont catch on fire too quickly LOL! (Just in case ya know!) :P

Ive never charged a LiPo but ive read some bad things about them. I wanted to start out with something less dangerous but the guy at the LHS talked me into it!!

~Robert
I assume you have a charger for Lipos? Using anything but one designed for Lipos will cause the cells to rupture and probably flame.
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:34 PM
Making gravity dramatic
AugerIn_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Peshtigo
Joined Sep 2004
212 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Block
Thanks guys. I have the set screw tightened, but figure I should wait until I'm done building before I put the black plastic retainer clip on (so it won't "wear out").

I'm almost done building. I have to drill a hole in the "stick" to attach my himax 2025-4266. And I plan to use a drop of loctite on the shaft under the collet's fingers, and on the threads for the spinner.

Need to figure how to attach the receiver.

I think I'll wait before adding a third wing brace (under the center of the wing). I probably used too much epoxy, and the .125" carbon rods on the leading wing edge are very strong. I used the stock rods + epoxy on the TE. I used no packing tape on the TE yet. Not sure if I will use any. Probably good to keep rubber bands from damaging the wing's surface I suppose.
Block-

Snap 'em on - you can always pull the horn off if you get into a situation where the rod can't be slipped out easily.

Word of advice - go easy on the Loc-Tite... ask me how I know. And ONLY use it on metal-to-metal connections, it eats plastic for lunch (you probably all ready know that).

You really should tape around the rods on the TE if you only have them epoxied. The rods will tear the finish off the wing if flexed hard enough if there's no tape to help retain their position - and the rubber bands DO like to dig in a bit. Per Boomer's advice; all you really need for more bracing is some strapping tape running diagonally and parallel across the bottom of the wing.

On my receiver I mounted it on top of the fuse. I had to notch the bottom of the wing fold a bit, but did not sacrifice the integrity of the joint.

-Brad
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:47 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
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Oops - I did not think of that. I can still remove the control rods (by loosening the set screw) even with the plastic retainer attached. Thanks. I'll still be flidding around for awhile getting the CG set; etc. SU basketball will keep me from finishing the SS tonight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AugerIn_
Block-

Snap 'em on - you can always pull the horn off if you get into a situation where the rod can't be slipped out easily.

-Brad
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 08:52 PM
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Zanesville, Ohio
Joined Jan 2004
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
I assume you have a charger for Lipos? Using anything but one designed for Lipos will cause the cells to rupture and probably flame.
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
Yea an eFlite Celectra 1-3 Lipo charger.. im going to attempt to charge it tonight i think... lol.. oh god.

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 09:39 PM
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600Burger's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2004
158 Posts
Anyone got infromation on a replacement tail section for SS? Mines split right down the edge of the plastic reinforcer and fuse.

Also, my prop saver keeps letting go of the prop, and flinging it into oblivian. Any ideas?

Thanks all,

-Burg
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 10:17 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,724 Posts
I stumbled onto a post (from the first SS thread) with a solution:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...&page=54&pp=15

Or you can mount the servos futher from the stick, which is how I'm leaving mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
Also -- hooking the arms that move the rudder and elevator to the servos.. Is it possible to use the plus sign looking connector because the other ones hit the fuse. They are just straight across ----o----
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 11:12 PM
Making gravity dramatic
AugerIn_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Peshtigo
Joined Sep 2004
212 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 600Burger
Anyone got infromation on a replacement tail section for SS? Mines split right down the edge of the plastic reinforcer and fuse.

Also, my prop saver keeps letting go of the prop, and flinging it into oblivian. Any ideas?

Thanks all,

-Burg
Burg-

Try fan fold foam (1/4"), or meat tray foam... balsa will work too but you'll have to adjust for the shift in weight. Or just order the tail from GWSExpert.com: http://www.gwsexpert.com/product_inf...roducts_id=596

$10.. a homemade solution would be much less expensive.

Can't help you on the prop saver - sounds like your o-ring (rubberband) is a bit loose, not enough shaft poking out or the prop is out of balance. Don't know for sure, I haven't used one longer than five minutes.

-Brad
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Old Feb 06, 2005, 04:02 PM
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600Burger's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2004
158 Posts
ALL FIXED!

I repaired/replaced the broken horz stab with a new one. Its made out of slittlly used "foam board" that I bought in a 24"x36" sheet from Michaels™. Its got dense cardboard (like 2 sheets on construction paper) on both sides of some light foam. I was using it to build my Free Flight models on, but its been used about 3 times now and is getting kinda ragedy. I treid to find the cleanest spot on the board, but there are still some pin holes and cuts into it. It is almost 2x as heavy as the old stuff but i managed to rebalance my plane to the old CG. Hopfully she flies ok. Here are some pictures.






Also, i've adjusted the prop saver so alittle more shaft is going through the prop, I'll keep you posted on the results.

-Burg
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Last edited by 600Burger; Feb 06, 2005 at 04:05 PM.
Old Feb 06, 2005, 05:29 PM
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millerhill's Avatar
USA, VT, Brandon
Joined Aug 2004
1,342 Posts
Soldering connectors to deans with lipos

Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
i think it was plastic melting but it really stunk and the battery was hot (being shorted out i guess!)

~Robert

Best to do one wire at a time.

Never cut both wires at the same time BTW!

Solder and heat shrink negative, then do the same with positive.

Take your time and be careful.

Steve
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Old Feb 06, 2005, 05:33 PM
Registered User
Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,724 Posts
Maiden Flight

It's been very warm with little wind in Central NY state, so I finished my plane and flew it today. Nothing broke, so the flying wasn't too bad. The elevator seems way too big/powerful. Even with exponential control turned on, it was hard to not overcorrect vertically. I was going up, down, up, down. :-)

I turned the motor off right before slowly hitting the ground straight down. I took off from the parking lot a second time (ROG) and flew across the field. It is hard to see the plane when it is not up very high since there is no fuselage and you're looking parallel to the wing! I crashed again and accidentally turned the throttle up instead of down. :-)

The Himax collet came off this time, and I could not get it back on for a third flight...and the CC25 ESC had some humidity under the "wrapper".

Loctite inside the spinner (on its threads) is not a good thing. I loosened the spinner a little, and got the collet and spinner back onto the shaft. But I could not get the spinner and collet tight on the shaft. The whole assembly would just spin. I think it's because the Loctite on the threads causes the spinner to turn the collet before the collet is tight enough on the shaft to keep the collet from spinning. I can't see any way of keeping the collet (the fingers) from spinning, except to take the Loctite off the spinner.

At home, I had to stick a screwdriver into the collet's fingers (to keep it from turning) to loosen the spinner. I ended up breaking one of the collet's "fingers" off.

So I need to find another collet or a set screw type. And I will limit the elevator a lot - perhaps 50% via the Transmitter setting.

I edited this part:
I had one "surprise" today - I had to move the wing almost all the way forward to the motor to get balance at 4 1/8" from the LE of the wing. My 6.5 oz 8 cell Kan 1050 was directly behind the front wing mount. Next is the Hitec 555 RX, then the HS-81 servos, then the rear wing mount. I have the servos w/in 1cm of the ends of the control rods, so they are as far forwards as they can get. I think I hurried too much and was thinking backwards about how moving stuff affects the CG. I think I should move the servos back more. Having all the weight near the CG might be partly why the plane moves up/down so quickly. On the other hand, having a lot of distance between the wing and tail should make it more stable I would think...

I used the correct wheel "caps" to hold the front wheels, but the thing I used for the back wheel looked like it was meant for something else. Nothing else fits the rear wheel's wire though - what's up with that?

I need to change my handle, even though I am a Block.
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Last edited by Block; Feb 06, 2005 at 06:02 PM.
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