Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 03:54 PM
WAA pilot #21
Vanning's Avatar
Princeton NJ
Joined Dec 2003
3,166 Posts
You could just use your car battery - that was the original idea anyway. Dont let a PSU keep you from flying when all ya gots ta do is pop the hood.
As for flying, well you likely will crash it first time out - get used to the idea. Its the 3rd or 4th time out that id like to see you succeed. Oh, i never used the heatsink either. Some guys have actually bent them in a semicircle and zip-tied them to the motor. THATS clever. I never got the bend right though.
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 04:40 PM
Registered User
Zanesville, Ohio
Joined Jan 2004
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanning
You could just use your car battery - that was the original idea anyway. Dont let a PSU keep you from flying when all ya gots ta do is pop the hood.
As for flying, well you likely will crash it first time out - get used to the idea. Its the 3rd or 4th time out that id like to see you succeed. Oh, i never used the heatsink either. Some guys have actually bent them in a semicircle and zip-tied them to the motor. THATS clever. I never got the bend right though.
haha yea but i have no car

I believe I have a way to charge it now.. at least it seems to work but now I need to get this aggrivating CG figured out along with attach the arms to the servos (not sure how to do that yet). As for charging this... from what ive heard i think i would be good to charge my batteries in an ammo box or something LOL.. that really kinda freaks me out.

I also have to figure out this CG to make sure I understand it so its not the cause of my future failures haha. The way that I understand it is that the tip of my wing starts at about 5 - 5 1/4" back from the tip of the fuse. Underneat that i need to center the weight (underneath the main wing). Correct?

Sorry im not too smart in these areas but im really learning

Thanks

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 04:50 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
haha yea but i have no car

I believe I have a way to charge it now.. at least it seems to work but now I need to get this aggrivating CG figured out along with attach the arms to the servos (not sure how to do that yet). As for charging this... from what ive heard i think i would be good to charge my batteries in an ammo box or something LOL.. that really kinda freaks me out.

I also have to figure out this CG to make sure I understand it so its not the cause of my future failures haha. The way that I understand it is that the tip of my wing starts at about 5 - 5 1/4" back from the tip of the fuse. Underneat that i need to center the weight (underneath the main wing). Correct?

Sorry im not too smart in these areas but im really learning

Thanks

~Robert
Robert where the wing is in relation to the motor is not near as important as balancing at the Center of Gravity (CG). You need to measure back 4-1/8" from the front of the wing and make a mark on the underside of the wing at that point on each side of the center. Then put your finger tips on those marks and lift and the plane should stay level. If it doesn't you need to slide things around including the wing if necessary to get it to balance at that point! The plane will fly with the wing anywhere from 5" to 7 inches back of the motor! The important item is balancing at the CG!
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 06:20 PM
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USA, VT, Brandon
Joined Aug 2004
1,342 Posts
I just bent my fuse, even with the balsa "filler" rod. Very depressing. Not a good day today. Maidened my estarter and it instantly rolled right and crashed. Shattered the gear box and dislodged the motor stick. Minor damage really. Then I was trying to fly inverted with my SS and got it stuck in a tree. Managed to poke it down with a alum pole. Everything was fine...doing touch and goes and then I'm not sure what happened but it looked like the I had accidently hit the down trim because the plane pitched down suddenly right after take off. I compensated then looked down briefly to see if I had hit the trim slider. That's all it took...when I looked up a split second later, the plane went in hard. Bent the fuse. Pushed the servos forward which in turn pulled the control horns right out of the stab and elevator. Looks like the motor survived thanks to the prop saver, but it broke my APC prop which takes a lot of energy.

Anyway. I'm thinking of using a Slow V fuse. How rugged are they?

Steve
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:02 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
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I struggled with this step as well today (HiTec HS-81 servos).
I used the "--o--" (2 straight arms) servo arms since they have longer arms than the 4-arm servo arm. This was discussed a few weeks ago, but I can't recall what the solution was - I thought there was a way w/o cutting the arm.

I came up with one way. To keep the two servos' arms from hitting each other, I mounted the servos as far outward from the stick/fuselage as I could (used outermost hole of that odd "double hole" on the GWS mount). I ran the control rods to the arm (servo side) that is closest to the stick. The control rods must bend a little towards the stick to reach the servo arm.

On my first/earlier attempt, I mounted the servos very close to the stick, and used the outter servo arm. The control rods had to bend outwards a little to reach are arm. So the control rods had to bend no matter where I mounted the servo, so I figured why bother mounting the servos near the stick (which requires cutting the inner servo arm).

The Hitec screws did not fit the GWS servo holders, so I used some very small machine screws and nuts.

I had yet another problem & question. I used the Hitec rubber inserts/mounts that came with the servos. They seem to be for vibration damping - why would that be needed for a servo??? I'm unsure what they are for, and if I should have used them or not since I've never seen this discussed on here. The metal "tubes" (spacers?) that came with the servos would require a pretty big hole be cut in the GWS servo mount, so I used the Hitec rubber mounts instead.

I did not use any servo mounting tape - I forgot to, and don't see how it would help much anyhow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
Also -- hooking the arms that move the rudder and elevator to the servos.. Is it possible to use the plus sign looking connector because the other ones hit the fuse. They are just straight across ----o----

~Robert Rittenhouse
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:19 PM
Registered User
Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,724 Posts
double sided hinge

I used tape on both sides of the elevator and rudder for the hinge, but do not like it very much. One direction has more resistance than the other, and the control surfaces do not want to rest in their center positions. I might try to remove the packing tape from most of the elevator. A couple inches of tape at each end/side of the elevator is enough insurance, but won't add as much resistance as running tape the whole length.

As the hinge is closed, I think the second piece of tape fills the hinge's "gap", keeping the hinge from being able to close as far as it could otherwise.

My control rods for the elevator bend once the elevator reaches perhaps 30 degrees down, which is probably far enough anyhow.

My rudder moves freely (control rods do not bend). I measured exactly +/- 20 degrees movement. 20 degrees matches the SS directions, but I think people like to have more travel. My Flash 5 TX is set to 100% travel, which is +/- 30 degrees. I guess the +/-10 degree difference is due to the control horn on the rudder and elevator being so large. The inner hole is too far from the surface. I'll probably wait until I fly it a few times before adding more rudder travel (by drilling a new hole).
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:27 PM
Registered User
Zanesville, Ohio
Joined Jan 2004
83 Posts
Deans Connectors and LiPo battery

Well -- I was soldering the deans connectors (those micro things) to the LiPo battery and the damn thing started smelling and i didnt see any sign of the two leads touching at all! I quickly ripped the leads apart (breaking the $2 dean connector) and took it to the bathroom and set it on the tub in case it would blow or whatnot LOL.

Im so mad right now and I hope that does not ruin my $25 LiPo.. do we have some better ideas to doing this? How about some electricial tape?? LOL

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:40 PM
JMC
Registered User
Joined Feb 2005
18 Posts
Awesome thread guys! I just got my SS together a couple of weeks ago and started searching for info and stumbled on this huge thread. Great info here!
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:44 PM
Registered User
Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,724 Posts
More stupid newbie questions.

I used those "Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors". Does the black plastic "clip" that goes on the bottom reliably hold the ez-connector to the servo arm?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXAHE6&P=K
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:48 PM
Registered User
Oregon, United States
Joined Jul 2004
1,124 Posts
Welcome aboard fellas!

I have two SS in ready to fly condition at any one time. Taught many friends and neighbors kids to fly with them. They look a bit ratty but still fly great. Also have two SS kits in the box, one has been raided for parts the other is waiting for my GWS floats to become a puddle jumper. Helluva lotta fun for little cost.

Check out this site!

http://www.verrill.com/rc/ss/

Tony
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:49 PM
Registered User
Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,724 Posts
Maybe you were just smelling the hot solder?

I do not own a workbench, nor a vise, so I use vise grips to hold the dean's utlra while I soldered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
Well -- I was soldering the deans connectors (those micro things) to the LiPo battery and the damn thing started smelling

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:51 PM
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Zanesville, Ohio
Joined Jan 2004
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Block
Maybe you were just smelling the hot solder?

I do not own a workbench, nor a vise, so I use vise grips to hold the dean's utlra while I soldered.
i think it was plastic melting but it really stunk and the battery was hot (being shorted out i guess!)

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:55 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Block
More stupid newbie questions.

I used those "Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors". Does the black plastic "clip" that goes on the bottom reliably hold the ez-connector to the servo arm?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXAHE6&P=K
As long as you put the plastic part on with the flat side toward the servo arm and snug they will stay on as the ridge on the fitting locks the plastic washer in place.
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:57 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
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Probably should only strip one wire at a time I suppose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8tad
i think it was plastic melting but it really stunk and the battery was hot (being shorted out i guess!)

~Robert
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Old Feb 05, 2005, 07:58 PM
Making gravity dramatic
AugerIn_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Peshtigo
Joined Sep 2004
212 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Block
More stupid newbie questions.

I used those "Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors". Does the black plastic "clip" that goes on the bottom reliably hold the ez-connector to the servo arm?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXAHE6&P=K
Block-

I use them with all my electrics requiring smaller diameter control rods and they've never let me down. I've even installed them on my HOB P-51D balsa kit and I've a lot of time invested in that build - and no worries as for how they hold up. They'll work fine.

-Brad
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