|Jan 19, 2005, 02:53 AM|
Thunder Tiger .15
Does anyone have or know where I can get a manual for this engine? I need to set the carb or something and do not know where the two adjustment screws or the needle valve should be set at for starters. It is hard to start and when it gets running it puts a lot of fuel through the muffler and when I advance to full throttle you can see the fuel mist come out of the carb and then it dies. Thanks for the help guys.
|Jan 19, 2005, 12:54 PM|
I think there is no low end adjust screw but there is an air bleed screw like old system.
İnitial adjustment of this air bleed ;put a needle through that special air bleed hole in front of carb, and make that screw touch that needle(meaning just about the half closed bleed hole).High end screw adjustment;begin with 2,5 -3 tour open,that idling screw doesnt affect the start of engine.After start and getting warm, adjust the highest rpm and add several clicks more to have richer mixture.Than try to tune idling.With very small adjustments and getting full throttle after each adjustment.Than u will find most suitable idling.
|Jan 20, 2005, 10:10 AM|
Ron - You should be able to tune this without any paperwork.
Turk is assuming that you have an air bleed carb, but TT has both, in .25 size, and I'm not sure on the .15 size. It's probably an air bleed carb. You will be able to tell by looking closely at the carb.
I have several TT engines. The "Pro" ball bearing models have a two needle adjustment with the low end needle being located inside the throttle arm center depression. This needle controls "fuel" not air, so turning that screw clockwise leans the engine at idle.This is pretty standard.
My plain beaing .25 engine has three needles. Main mixture. Air bleed needle, and throttle stop. The "air bleed" needle sets idle adjustment mixture. It's a small black screw, sitting horizontally on the left side of your engine as you are facing the front of the engine. It controls air (not fuel) the air being sucked in from a small hole. Turning the screw "in" clockwise blocks off the hole, giving the engine less air making it richer at idle. On the .25 air bleed model carb there is also a vertical screw that looks identical to the horizontal screw. That screw is a throttle stop. When you close the rotating barrel it closes off the "venturi" air. This screw is a small adjustment if you do not want to close the venturi hole completely, killing the engine. I have mine set to close and use the transmitter trim to set the stop point.
Turk has given you sound advice for setting the air bleed. I use the same method to estimate if the air hole is fully or partially open. With the hole open you can start you engine as usual. From your description the engine is too rich now. Turn the high speed needle (either direction, but probably clockwise since your too rich now) until you reach peak RPM. Then give a couple of clicks rich (counter clockwise) becasue the engine will tend to lean out in flight. You can tell if you are right by picking up your plane and pointing it straight up with full power! If it is to lean it will sputter and probably die. If its OK it might pick up a little RPM but make maximum power.
Now back to the low setting. The engine should idle reliablely, it should transitions from idle to higher RPM smoothly. Pinch the fuel line until the engine dies. Listen to it as it dies. If the setting is correct, the engine RPM should speed up then die. If it dies quickly without speeding up a little, its too lean. I have found the low end air bleed settings not too critical. However, the Pro models have a very sensitive low end needle.
Let us know how you get along.
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