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| This thread is privately moderated by Fotta, who may elect to delete unwanted replies. |
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 155
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BladeRunner FAQ
I am in the process of creating a Bladerunner FAQ which will be made into a sticky. Please use this thread to post advice that you feel is commonly asked and/or is of use to others.
Last edited by Fotta; Jan 13, 2005 at 07:13 PM. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wheaton, MD, USA
Posts: 2,384
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Please do. I think a sticky FAQ will make life much easier for all the new BR owners. Also, maybe a list of links to important threads.
-Kwok Here is the original BR FAQ developed by RCGroup members: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313695 Last edited by Kwok_Yu; Jan 21, 2005 at 06:29 PM. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 155
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Yes, a list of links too, but in a seperate thread.
How to reinforce your landing gear (link): http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320738 A link to collected mods - many to choose from: http://theclassroom.50megs.com/Blade...nformation.pdf Tail Rotor not working: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330484 Last edited by Fotta; Feb 03, 2005 at 10:39 AM. |
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#4 |
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Live to ride... and fly!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Forney, TX
Posts: 13,065
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Yes, very good idea. I suggest you number the items so we can refer to them by number when answering posted questions. Here's a start for you:
1. Problem- Bladerunner moves forward/backward slowly or not at all. Solution- Try removing the plastic hoop from around the rear motor prop. Wire cutters or even nail clippers can be used to remove it. Be careful to remove the hoop only, leave the prop intact. This allows the prop to spin faster and improves forward/ backward flight speed. 2. Problem- Bladerunner has very low flight times (2 minutes or less). Solution- The earliest Bladerunners had a different battery than later versions. Flight times have been reported to be 2 minutes or less. The battery can be replaced, but it requires opening up the plastic body and doing some light solder work. A 340 Kokam cell is the best replacement; this should bring flight times up to 8+ minutes. The bare cell can be purchased at the following vendors: http://www.allerc.com http://www.b-p-p.com/ http://www.balsapr.com/ 3. Problem- Bladerunner turns to one side even though trim tab is set all the way to the opposite side. Solution- If the BR is turning to the left (needs excessive right trim), try twisting some pitch into the upper rotor blades and/or flattening the blade pitch of the lower rotor blades. If it’s turning to the right, try the opposite of the above. 4. Problem- Upper and lower rotors clash when in forward flight. Solution- Remove the plastic sleeve holding the upper rotor in place. Remove the rotor and install a ½” spacer. The spacer can be a small straw or shrinkwrap (don’t shrink it). Replace the rotor and the plastic sleeve. The rotors are now spaced ½” farther apart and that should prevent clashing in most circumstances. 5. Problem- Rotors wobble. Solution- If the rotors only wobble slightly and don’t seem to affect flying, leave them as-is. If they have a severe wobble, check to make sure both rotor hinges are free to allow the rotor to pivot during flight. If that’s not the problem, check the rotor balance. If a repair has been made to the rotor blades such as taping them, an equal amount of tape might be needed on the opposite blade to rebalance the rotor. 6. Problem- Blade is broken. Solution- Blade breaks can be repaired with tape. Clear packing tape works well. Hold the blade in position at the break and apply tape over and across the break, then wrap the tape underneath so that both the top and bottom of the blade are taped. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 344
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Tres,
Very good. Other suggestions. Details about charging and the different signals from the blinking LED. This is in the manual, but could be explained in more detail. The Bladerunner not beeing stable due to rotors not tilting as freely as they should. Correct if some parts are bent or out of shape, use small amount of oil. "Kickstarting" the tail rotor and let it run for a while if it is slow to start up. Include most of the FAQs from the itc web page. Maybe something on technical specifications (battery, motor, radio) Petter |
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#6 |
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Live to ride... and fly!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Forney, TX
Posts: 13,065
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I suggest adding this info from "ukgroucho" as well:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...91&postcount=5 |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 155
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good suggestion.
Last edited by Fotta; Jan 19, 2005 at 11:02 AM. |
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#8 |
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Brushless Addict
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Here's a better way to space out the rotors than adding another spacer.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324396 And my charging cord mod http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324786 |
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#9 |
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R/C unconditionnal
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: cote nord/quebec/canada
Posts: 284
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that question is for fotta,"tres" says the BR motors are made specifically for it ,you being marketing mngr(i guess it is for ITC)you are in a position that enables you to have access to all info concerning the BR, right?
then if ITC truly have them made can you tell me please the specs the cie requires from is manufacturer?Once i asked here if someone knew how many turns these motor have and someone ( i am not sure it was you) answered me that a BR owner once posted that he unwinded one and counted forty some turns,but if tres's allegation is true you should then be able to give me (and everyone here) the exact specs;power range,amp consumption,type of magnets,wire gage and #of turns,it would make it so much easier to find replacement motors,i found that my M24 tail motor works but it is more demanding in current than the original BR motors. thanks louis |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 155
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Is this a test ?
You can choose to believe Tres' "allegation" (as you put it), or not...As for the motor info, I am doubtful that posting that sort of thing on a public forum would be a good idea in terms of protecting the product against knock-offs. It's hard enough to do so, as it is. |
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#11 |
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R/C unconditionnal
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: cote nord/quebec/canada
Posts: 284
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A test??? what are we talking about? don't you work for ITC?
i sincerly do not understand why you won't post the motor specs,you insist on the fact that we can not buy these anywhere on the market so what is your worry? i make my own motors from time to time and the BR is one situation where i would like to build my own(seems easier than finding identical ones)any other r/c vehicule comes with a complete spec list ,even the motor has a detailled spec sheet,since you say you can't sell them to us why then won't you give us a hand on that motor issue? i could say e-mail me (or pm)the specs but then i guess i'll become competition... Do you REALLY work for ITC or are you just another internet pretender? anyway,no hard feelings but if it is the mentality of ITC you are reflecting, good luck staying a float... Last edited by omdunor; Feb 11, 2005 at 12:22 PM. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 155
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Omdunor
Please do not hijack this thread - it is meant to be a FAQ and in case you did not notice, is a sticky. If you have a personal issue with me, PM me or email me directly. Please keep it off this public forum and especially off this sticky thread. |
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#13 |
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R/C unconditionnal
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: cote nord/quebec/canada
Posts: 284
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Never mind,i can see there is no way i will get an answer,hell i'm done loosing time here,extremely deceiving i have to admit (getting more precious infos from customers than the retailer itself) but also very reveiling.
hyjacker says:later all
Last edited by omdunor; Feb 14, 2005 at 02:17 PM. |
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#14 |
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oz not aus
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: not here
Posts: 44
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what do i do if the motor burns out. and after that how do i put the case back on proprely
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#15 |
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Infinitisqrd
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Posts: 1,210
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wizofoz : When (not if) a motor burns out, you will have to remove the body to replace or repair it. If you want to be able to put the body back in place after you do whatever fix is needed, you will have to sharpen your surgical skills (and your Xacto blade, as well) Use your hobby knife (or small, precision scissors) to cut the body, just above where it is welded to the underneath piece, leaving about 2-3mm of the body. Remove the rotors and spacers (be careful to not lose the small plastic washer - it is either between the silicone tubing and the top of the upper rotor, or between the top of the lower rotor and the bottom spacer [where it is supposed to be].
Next, join the club and try to find new motors. Or, you can try to do a brush swap. I won't go into either of these options here - they have been covered many times before on this forum - search and read. When it comes time to re-install the body, put it back in place so the body overlaps the 2-3mm rim you left sticking up when you cut it, and glue or scotch tape it to the bottom piece. Most people find they need to fiddle with things, lube the moving parts, change or move the battery, etc., etc., so we just chuck the body into the dustbin. You save 5 gm that way, and the BR really likes a low-weight diet anyway. Download and print this document : http://theclassroom.50megs.com/Blade...nformation.pdf Have fun! Steve Here's a couple more links for your reading enjoyment : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...&page=43&pp=15 http://appft1.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2 FPTO%2Fsearch-bool.html&r=2&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=PG01&s1=%22Muren% 2C+Petter%22.IN.&OS=IN/"Muren,+Petter"&RS=IN/"Muren,+Petter" Last edited by Steve Shepard; Mar 27, 2005 at 05:47 PM. Reason: add links |
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