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Old Jan 10, 2005, 11:12 AM
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questions on diy ir rx

as some of you may know, i am going to give building the ir rx a try. most of it doesent look too hard(or at least of what i coould see by looking at the diagram in the DIY IR Lfers forum) and i want to get some things cleared up firs before building it. the only thing that looks hard in the diagram here
is that i am nervous about soldering the pins on the PIC12C509A that connect to the rudder and elevator, because there is only a small space to solder those pins to the board, and i was just wondering if for ONLY those pins, i could solder the 2 actuators directly to the pins before placing the chip on the board instead of soldering the chip to the board and risk the 2 pins on each side touching, and then place the chip on the circuit board as shown in the diagram, and solder the remaining pins to the board. would this work? also, what is the the "sensor" and "link" for? what do these things go to? do i need these? also, where do i get small enough wire to make 200ohm actuator coils? does this rx come with a built in speed controller?
btw, are there any schematics and parts lists for this transmitter yet?
also here, what is the blue wire in the middle of the board connecting? it doesent show it in the blue schematic that i showed above. please be patient with me on these questions, i want to clear up EVERYTHING on my mind before attempting this, and make the chance of failure as little as possible
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 11:24 AM
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jon,

I haven't got time at the monent to get to all your questions, but if you use one of the posted pcb masks on Koichi's site, like the one in the pix you posted, there is plenty of room to solder actuator wires next to the pic legs. I have put white lines to the two pair of pads for these. The pencil drawing you have posted is really just a component layout, not pcb artwork,though it could be traced to be used as art .

BTW, the ESC (motor speed control) is on the board and is connected to the blue & white wires in your photo.

Also, this really should be in the diy ir thread.

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 11:59 AM
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thanks dave. i am not nervous about soldering the actuator terminals to the board, i am nervous about soldering the legs on the PIC12C509A chip that connect to the actuators because there is only a small space for those legs to be soldered to, thats why i wanted to solder the actuators directly to the legs instead of soldering the legs of the chip to the board.

btw, now that i look at it, the picture from the finished rx that you showed above complies with this schematic instead of the first one that i mentioned right? whats the difference? what is the sensor for?
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 01:13 PM
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jon,

Stick with putting the pic on the board, it really isn't that though, I think trying to wire it seperately would be harder.

I think that is David DeWit's layout, he likes to do his own. I am not sure what the difference is, but I am sure he has thought it out, maybe he will comment.

The (LED) sensor is what receives the ir signal from the tx, it must be matched in mhz to the tx.

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 01:36 PM
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just ONE more question for now, because i dont want to keep on bugging you i looked at the picture below with the sensor, and the 3 sensor terminals are connected to the board differently than they are shown in the blue schematic that i showed above. in the blue schematic, they are connected all on the left side of the board, but on the picture below the red and white wires are connected to the top of the board. why is this?
ps: do the 2 "links" on the top right and the bottom left of the blue schematic get hooked togther by a piece of wire? thanks for the help
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 02:43 PM
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It dosen't look like exactly the same board layout, but it's really too dark to see.
Yes, the grey wire is the "link"
Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 05:17 PM
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could i still hook the sensor up the way the blue schematic shows, or do i have to hook it up the way the picture shows that i mentioned in my previous post? if i could hook it up the way the blue schematic shows, would i still need the link?
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 06:04 PM
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Jonathan,

Bend output pins of pic up and solder act wires directly to pins, pins not soldered to board. Soldering pic is the easy bit though, soldering Maxim pump will be much more difficult.

The schematics you show are for LTC charge pump or Maxim pump.

Schematic for that tx module, which was test my unit, is on Koichi's site.

Sensor can be connected as per schematic, yes link is still needed.

Link connects GND of board. Link is shown in first schematic.

Coil wire can be found in 24hr timers, relays etc.

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 06:26 PM
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i dont mean to be a pest dave, but would you happen to have a direct link to the tx on his site, because i an not sure which one is the right one? and thanks for helping! im gonna hook the sensor on the left side of the board, the way the blue schematic shows how. im probably gonna hook up everything as per the blue schematic
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 06:45 PM
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Go to pic/avr learning page. Down the page you will find transmitter No.18
I don't think link will take you to page.

Which charge pump will you be using ? If using LTC there is pcb layout without wire link.

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 06:51 PM
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I think you will find most of these questions answered if you read first page of DIY LRFers thread. The answer to your last question is in the first paragraph or two I think. You will also find the pcb I mentioned in previous post.

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 07:00 PM
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im gonna use the ltc
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 07:10 PM
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correct me if im wrong dave, but i went to number 18 on koichi's pic/avr learning page, and this module came up instead of this one that i was hoping to see this one here because this one looked easier to build because it used fewer parts.
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 07:14 PM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=225

link to pcb

I'll go check page 18

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 07:39 PM
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Thats it. As I said the picture you show is of my test unit. It does not have all components on it.

Being one of the very first to make one I though at the time a test unit necessary. As it turned out I must have ran into every problem and then some. I went through $$$ worth of pics before I figured out the programmer lead was to long. Then translater was messing up hex file etc etc. Koichi originaly wrote code for mode 2, but it turned out that the change in tx is done after decoder, so that was a few more wasted pics. People now have the advantage of knowing these things if they do there homework.

If you want module with less parts count read recent pages of DIY IR thread.

Dave
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