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Old Jul 14, 2007, 08:11 PM
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Petefoss's Avatar
Oxford, Michigan, United States
Joined Aug 1999
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanlander
A whole load of Micro-flyers got trashed by kids practicing flying for a science fair. One asked me "How can you make it fly better?"

3 evenings building later we flew the "dragonfly" to show them!
Can I get more details on the Dragonfly?
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Old Aug 09, 2007, 08:33 AM
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Welsh Dave's Avatar
Llangollen
Joined Aug 2007
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Jlogue - I recently bought a Rookie, planning eventually to incorporate the bits into a 1/24 Fokker D.VII I'd like to build some day. That looks like being delayed owing to pressure of work and the fact that the Rookie is a pretty cool toy as it is.

The obvious first mod is to remove the heavy stickers and the paint from the top of the wing. It lifts off easily with sticky tape, as it has only a weak bond to the EPP foam. No trim change is noticeable.

The improvement due to the lighter airframe is most evident when the LiPo battery is almost exhausted; the model floats around slowly under precise control until it settles gently to earth.

This little delta tea tray doesn't look as if it ought to fly at all, but it's actually very efficient and stable. One thing to check is that the wing is properly glued to the fuselage. My model got a bit divergent during early flights, and produced an unpleasant ripping noise at one point. The wing roots at the leading edge were not glued to the little fillets below the "cockpit", and if one of them rose, the Rookie turned sharply in the opposite direction. The ripping noise was due to the entire forward part of the wing rising until it fouled the prop! Sticking everything down with a liberal application of PVA solved this problem.

As for the claimed indestructibility, I guess that's pretty accurate. My Rookie has descended vertically through 40 feet of tree and been retrieved by a well-intentioned Dalmatian, both without visible damage. It then got blown into an oak, where it spent a rainy night inverted on a spray of twigs. Next morning it was on the deck, with the port wing ripped off along a jagged line and the starboard wing lifted over the prop. Chlorophyll on top of the port LE showed that a horse in the field had trampled it into the grass. Still there was no aerofoil deformation, so I decided to glue it back together. The wing halves matched perfectly, and the model flies just as well as before, if not better.

I think it will be a long time before there's enough damage to justify cannibalisation. :-)
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Last edited by Welsh Dave; Aug 09, 2007 at 04:40 PM.
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Old May 14, 2008, 07:33 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
795 Posts
swanlander how did you rig the pull pull with the acuators on the dragonfly?
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 01:39 AM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Bump Stik

Last week a buddy gave me his WAMF, which he bought in '04 and had let collect dust over the years because it didn't fly. Today I had some free time, so I slapped together my first indoor scratch design; I'm calling it the Bump Stick, because it borrows the wing and stabilizer shape from the Bump. The materials I used were: 1mm depron, 1/8" cf tube, 1mm cf rod, and blucor fff. It uses stock WAMF gear of course. It is 13" long instead of 9" like the Bump, which I hope will make it track better. Next time I'll use 11 or 12" to get the lipo on the wing mount. I get a solid 20deg throw in either direction with a 1/4" wider rudder, which looks right on the bench. I'm not sure how I managed to pile on so much weight, but with a 27gm AUW I am wondering if it will even fly.

I'm a newbie to micros, so let me know what you guys think. There's a bunch I'm not familiar with. For example, is 1mm carbon necessary with such a small depron wing? Seemed overkill, but the Bump guide says it's necessary with 4mm eps?

Cheers,
Kev

[edit: It flies, in fact it flies great! I gave it a few glides in my backyard today and the L/D was amazing, like 8:1, no joke. 6-8mph is my best guess at the glide speed, so it's no LRF. It was very stable after I added a just a smidge of up elevator. Tracking was gorgeos, and it didn't have any tendancies to snap even when I stayed on the rudder. I'm very satisfied with it so far. The prop pulls so hard, which makes me think this could be a keeper. Now I'm anxious fly with power on tomorrow at the field, weather permitting.]
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Old Jun 15, 2009, 06:00 AM
Don't leave it Stock
mrfliboy's Avatar
USA, IL, Round Lake
Joined Feb 2004
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Looks good.

I'm trying to see how you did the remote actuator?? Any closeups available.

Good luck on the maiden.
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Old Jun 15, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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mrfliboy, thanks for the compliment. I posted the only up close pics of my pull/pull that I have on my hard drive at the moment. The shot of the actuator is poor, so I'll replace it with a better one after work.

Assembly of the pull/pull is finicky! I'm sure there are better guides to setting up a micro pull/pull, but here goes another brief one: To minimize binding and increase your chances of success the first time: 1) You need very smooth hinges on both ends, 2) the "arms" on both ends should be centered on their respective pivot points as best possible, and 3) the strings should be mounted symetrically on both sides (distance from pivot point must be equal). IMO it's easiest to install both ends first (actuator and rudder hardware), then CA both strings to the actuator arm. Then once you're satisfied with tension and placement, lock the strings to the rudder with a drop of CA.

At first for my hinges I tried tiny bits of blenderm, since I'm used to it on my bigger planes, and that resulted in zero rudder, lol. Once I went to rubber bands I started getting throw, but at first it was mostly to one side because I had too much tension on one of the lines and my actuator rod was mounted aft of the actuator pivot point. By installing somewhat flexible string with a little slack on both sides, I ended up getting the actuator to work without having to redesign and rebuild it. This isn't ideal, but it was supposed to be a quickie build, and I already had to glue 4 sets of strings and 2 sets of hinges to get it working the way it does.

BTW, maiden went well. It was blowing about 3-5mph, so most of the flight was pointed in to the wind. I think the lipo was old and tired, since the motor started cutting out (intermittent bursts) after about 50sec of climbing. I do have to tune up the CG, since it was porpoising with throttle. The porpoising killed my climb rate, so I never got higher than about 20'. The actuator worked awesome though. It stayed tracking straight, and whenever a gust blew me off course it would turn right back in to the wind with a few touches on the rudder.

I was going to give this plane to my buddy who gave me the WAMF, but now I need to rig up a plug for his TX charger. He doesn't have a lipo charger at home.

Cheers,
Kev

[edit: After looking at my pics closer, I realize this pull/pull is actually a very poor example to look at if you're getting started. For one, just look at those huge globs of hot glue; they must weigh as much as the actuator itself, hehe. I need to get more practice building micros.

*picture updated*]
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Old Jun 15, 2009, 10:48 AM
Don't leave it Stock
mrfliboy's Avatar
USA, IL, Round Lake
Joined Feb 2004
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Thanks for the closeups.

What channel 27 or 49, I still have a few spare tx around I'll send ya one if I have the right channel for ya.
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Old Jun 15, 2009, 07:13 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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It's 49. Thanks for the offer, but I'm not even sure if it's the tx or rx. I'm pretty sure it's not the battery now, since I tried it this morning just a half hour after a full charge (using my iCharger), and it stuttered right off the bat. On the third throw my buddy had a nice flight without stuttering, until the prop slipped off 10seconds later. Sheesh, if it's not one thing it's another. I'm going to see what kind of GWS dd props I have leftover so I can salvage this beast. At least today's flights went much better, since there was less wind. Now I know it will fly awesome if I can just keep the motor running and the prop on, lol!

Cheers,
Kev
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