Dennis,

Mild aerobatics are completely possible. The 'Sticky Pete' is aerobatic (to the extent that I am able to fly aerobaticts). It has an fully symetrical S8045 airfoil designed for R/C models. It has ~60 square inches of wing, 42(? maybe less) grams AUW, 2 x 170 cells, an N-20, Kenway 4:1 and GWS 5x3 prop (with BSD adapter). The airplane went from real light to fairly heavier after several motor and battery upgrades; it flies much better at the higher weight. The extra mass allows it to power through manuevers at a fairly constant air speed...

The other side of the coil is that is not a floater as it would be with an undercambered airfoil, but it is still not too fast for old reflexs. However, it is nowhere near as fast as the smaller Spicy Wings which have about half the wing area, 28 grams weight and an undercambered wing.

Here is a progress pic of my Bristol bullet racer. the fuse structure is complete, The tail surface structures are done. starting on the wing. The wing leading edge laminations and the trailing edge materiel are on the board.

The motor is installed. I chose the M20 with 6:1 gearing and a 4 inch rubber style prop. This is the setup sold by Bob Selmen.

Looking good so far, Walter. WHat kit/plan is that? Are the turtle deck formers laminated or cut out?

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor

Looking good so far, Walter. WHat kit/plan is that? Are the turtle deck formers laminated or cut out?

Bristol M-1 Gypsy racer in dime scale. WW1 monoplane fighter, rebuilt and re engined and raced after the war. I am building the racing version with the inline engine. The WW1 version had a radial engine.

Thanks to Small Flying Arts for the plan.

http://www.smallflyingarts.com/Free.../free_plans.htm

The upper and lower formers are cut out. the cockpit area is wet formed.

Walter

Very nice. I have always liked the Bristol Monoplane and the post war racer with inline engine is also quite interesting.

I must get some balsa cut and fitted, seems everyone else is moving forward at quite a pace while I am still fussing with making some actuators and messing about with motors.

To the workshop!

cheers, the other other Graham in Embrun near Ottawa Canada

Originally Posted by Rocketman209

Here is a progress pic of my Bristol bullet racer. the fuse structure is complete, The tail surface structures are done. starting on the wing. The wing leading edge laminations and the trailing edge materiel are on the board.

The motor is installed. I chose the M20 with 6:1 gearing and a 4 inch rubber style prop. This is the setup sold by Bob Selmen.

Progress is slow as I have 2 indoor sessions per week (poor bastard) A week only got me the tail group and basic fuse sides of the Baby Ace. A number of boo boos, but no deal breakers yet. The second side of the fuse (built directly on top of the first) is the more difficult of the two. Attempting to perfectly duplicate all the mistakes you made in the first.

I'll probably pay the price for all the gussets I added to the stab later on when I try to balance the plane. Those things are like potato chips once you get started. The only gusset in the rudder is the planned location of the rudder control horn. Ditto for the similarly located gussets in the elevator. I don't have a excuse for the rest of 'em. I'll really be impressed with myself if I can sand 'em out w/o destroying them.

Fuse sides 1.9 g
Stab/ele .6 g
Rudder .4 g

I like the superphaltic glue very much. Easy to work with, no smell, water cleanup.

One important piece of advice regarding the water clean up - DO NOT leave the tip soaking in the kitchen if your wife is blind, drunk or both. My new bottle's dispenser tip is now wedged into the garbage disposal.

Lookin good guys.
Thanks for the input on the airfoils Mike,is the S8045 included in the full version of Profili?
I will probably be using either the Ma 409(smoothed) or the S8045.
Have the basic box framed and will be adding the half formers today,will post a pic soon.
Dennis

Yes, Dennis, the S8035 is in the Profili database. I'm sorry, but I mis-typed the number before - it is 8035, not 8045. Sorry for causing any confusion!

`Has anyone tried the PU-03 motor/gear drive and the small Carbon prop from Bob Selmen? I was thinking that that might be just the ticket with a 90ma cell for a peanut model.

I think you are right - it would be a great combo for peanuts. If you look in the pager-powered models sticky thread you will find a lot of peanut sized models shown there. I haven't tried that prop, but with the other props I've tried, they put out a lot more thrust than you should be able to get from 2 1/4 grams!

Order some spare motors if you go with the Falcon setup. I've gone through 3 since I started flying my Quick Junior this past spring. All with the same M.O. They still run but abruptly lose power. Feels like the LVC on my JMP kicked in, only it hasn't. Took one apart and cleaned the brushes a bit. Everything else appeared to be in order. Went back together and ran just as poorly as before. Thankfully, changing motors is a snap on the Quick Junior. Might be a different story on a Peanut scale plane. I'm not saying the motors are junk, just don't expect the longevity of an N or M20.

Finally completed the basics of my Pacific Ace. Looks really nice, now here comes the tough part, how to make everything work out?!?!?! REmote actuators? will the u-80 prop kp-00 combination work better than the 3.6:1 home made, all crooked up gear box. Well, hopefully one of them will work. Here some pics of what I got so far up to last night.

Regards
Enrico

I have had excellent results with the KP-00/U-80 combo on a bunch of planes as long as they were about an ounce or less (or even a tad over). Deeper gearing and a larger diameter prop should work just as well and maybe match the slower flight of the Embryo's undercambered wing, so your choice. Which one is lighter?

As light as that structure looks, remote actuators would be a good idea. Putting them in the middle of the airplane will protect them, reduce the stresses on the tail group in a hard landing, and they also make it a lot easier to balance. Adding them surface mounted in the tail would also mean a lot more work (and weight) in that nice light built-up tail. I like to use .020" CF rod for the pushrods, and make the 'Z' bends at each end from .020" brass rod. Heat shrink tubing (3/64" works great) at each end holds the 'Z' bends to the rod, but has enough slip that you can adjust the push rod length...

That is looking good so far!

Go to www.gasparin.cz

He's got some new M20 based gearboxes in a variety of gear ratios, and thrust data to go with them. The right gear ratio and the MCF 5x3 prop should develop substantially more thrust than the U80 with the KP00 (the U80 prop might look too small anyway). You can get the props from BSDmicroRC.com. And, I'd bet your home made gearbox ratio is close to one of the ones Gasparin sells. Or, get the Gasparin as it is deadly quiet with his stainless steel gears.

`Has anyone tried the PU-03 motor/gear drive and the small Carbon prop from Bob Selmen? I was thinking that that might be just the ticket with a 90ma cell for a peanut model.

If you have a subscription to RCMicroflight, I have an extensive review of the PU04 and PU03, including tests with the small CF prop. Or, the Inside Story has results for gear ratios corresponding to the PU03.

http://www.microinvent.com/
Has RTF peanuts on their site that use the Gasparin gearbox with this small prop and the 4.5 ohm pager motor. You can get some ideas of what will fly those models by perusing their site and looking at specs.

Gordon