Something not mentioned is that the Norvels don't like to work with the clothes pin type glow clips. The ceramic/whatever coating acts as an insulator so you need to use a clip that goes directly to the plug or plug clamp. I use a beefed up Cox clip so I can yank it off.

Jim's post reminded me of my first experiance with a power panel. I kept hearing a hum when the plug was connected. Used a VOM and was surprised to see 12+ volts at the clip. No problem, but for the first start of the day, I turn the power down and work my way up. I was even more surprised when I accidently plugged the glow clip in the 12v. starter socket! The engine actually popped and I immediatly lost a $10 Cox plug! Turning the power down didn't help!

- Norm

With yours and other similar 12v experiences, I decided to put a piece of black tape over the 12v sockets. (No starter or fueler at present, so nothing lost--but the chance to burn up a glowplug with 12v!).

I am running a new BigMig .061 on my Zagi XS. I also purchased the Norvel electric starter. I picked up a "clothes pin" type glow plug clip, which turned out to be a piece of crap! I then got some little alligator clips from Radio Shack. I hooked those babies up to a good quality D size battery and PRESTO! It fires up with authority. I do need to cut my 6x3 Tornado prop down though. The Zagi is now 5 oz. lighter(than when it was electrified) But, my buddies Astro 020 powered 400X is still faster.... CAN'T HAVE THAT!!!

Randy

Yeah, you can cut that 6x3 down by a full inch. My new .061 seems to needle quite well on a 6x3 cut down to 5 inches. These Norvels LOVE smaller props.

APC 6X2, APC 5.7X3 and COX 5X3 props all work well on the Norvel .061.

I really like the 6x2 especially on my HalfWit. Keeps the speed down some.

Duke

Does the inner diameter of your props fit the prop shaft perfectly? Mine has room to scoot around, so I tried to center them as best as possible. There is very little vibration, but I doubt I could get it centered perfectly. Do you use a prop adapter?

You can use a piece fuel tubing if you need to bush out the hub of the prop. Since I got a lathe, I started making adapters for my props.

Thanks! I'll try the fuse tubing next time I have the prop off. Well, till I hit the local tech schools and have them machine me one out For some reason, I completely forgot about them.

Originally Posted by Bipe Flier

You can use a piece fuel tubing if you need to bush out the hub of the prop. Since I got a lathe, I started making adapters for my props.

Bipe Flier used to use fuel tubing like the rest of us poor folks, but since he acquired that lathe, he's moved on up to the east side with the other machinests -- and makes what we have to cobble up from junk.

I'm glad I found this thread! I plan to break in my Norvel 0.074 this weekend.
Maybe some of you guys could give me a hand with those dumb questions -sorry but no one here seems to fly with such small powerplants.

What prop range is suitable? 6x3 for break-in, all around use, 7x3 for slower flights...?
I use tornado fuel (15% oil, synthethic only), should there be a problem with that?
Anything I should know to make the engine run comfortable and for many time?
Finally, I'd like to know what plane size (by wingspan, weight, wing area.. doesn't matter) can it handle, for both gentle planes (i.e. a typical high wing plane), sport planes (i.e. any WWII model) or aerobatics (that is, +1:1 power/weight ratio ). I've just translated into cad a 3view drawing of the Transavia Airtruk, it would be nice to power it with the norvel.

Thanks in advance!
Regards,

Juan

I use 7X3 on the ones I have. For break in, and flying.

You should have 20% oil with at least some castor. I use 20% all castor in mine.

The .074 can fly 50" 30oz+ models or pull a smaller 20oz model vertical.

Here's a link to a video clip of one of my Norvel .074 powered planes.
http://donatelli.net/12aee/Vertical.mpg