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Old Feb 26, 2008, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsarge
David, what are the EXACT measurements of these packs? I know what they state on the site, but what they say and what they really are is usually different (for the Thunder Power 3S 1320s, they are different anyway). Can you measure yours as close as you can and let me know? I would like to use some of these packs but I am unsure if they will fit in my TM400 - I gouged out the compartmet to fit the TP 1320s.

Matt
67mm long. 24mm thick. 34mm wide. These measurements were taken off a pack with at least 30 cycles on it. The only problem I have had with the Loong Maxx's is that the battery tap wires come unsoldered. I untape the pack, resolder the wire and retape the pack. Good to go.
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Old Feb 27, 2008, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Feldman
67mm long. 24mm thick. 34mm wide. These measurements were taken off a pack with at least 30 cycles on it. The only problem I have had with the Loong Maxx's is that the battery tap wires come unsoldered. I untape the pack, resolder the wire and retape the pack. Good to go.
Thanks very much, my TP packs run 65x19x34 so a difference of 5mm at the thickness, I think I can gouge a little more foam out of the TM and add a little to the TP packs so they will still fit snugly... I think I will order a couple and see how they go...

Matt
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Old Feb 27, 2008, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsarge
Thanks very much, my TP packs run 65x19x34 so a difference of 5mm at the thickness, I think I can gouge a little more foam out of the TM and add a little to the TP packs so they will still fit snugly... I think I will order a couple and see how they go...

Matt
I've hogged out my TM400 battery bay to about 25 mm with no problems... used real coarse sandpaper (e.g. 80 grit) and a hard flat stick to remove foam quickly.
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Old Feb 27, 2008, 02:11 PM
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A hacksaw blade will wack it out in a hurry too.

Gord.
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Old Mar 20, 2008, 11:35 PM
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Regards warped struts: I just got a kit wth warped struts, as did a friend, and I examined another at a hobby shop today that also had warped struts. GWS admits the problem, says they think heat/humidity is causing it, but will only send new ones if you pay the postage to mail the bad ones back to them.

I attempted flattening them by sandwiching them between two peices of plywood placed on a hear source, with a weight on top. By the time they would remain flat, they also changed shape from the heat. Also, even though I allowed them to cool still under compression, they still warped after cooling.

The good news is e-flightline is still a source for replacement struts.
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Old Mar 20, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Correction: "heat" source...
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 04:09 AM
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try carbon flat 1/2 in stock ,works well !
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rperego
Regards warped struts: I just got a kit wth warped struts, as did a friend, and I examined another at a hobby shop today that also had warped struts. GWS admits the problem, says they think heat/humidity is causing it, but will only send new ones if you pay the postage to mail the bad ones back to them.

I attempted flattening them by sandwiching them between two peices of plywood placed on a hear source, with a weight on top. By the time they would remain flat, they also changed shape from the heat. Also, even though I allowed them to cool still under compression, they still warped after cooling.

The good news is e-flightline is still a source for replacement struts.

I've had good success with the wooden struts from e-flightline http://www.e-flightline.com/ on both my Moth and Stearman (PT-17). I have never seen Moth struts and cabanes from GWS that were not warped. I also didn't notice any difference during flight from the warped struts.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 09:16 AM
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Nov 2006
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I held my struts flat at each end and CA'ed 1mm CF rod to each of them.

Straightened and strengthened
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie_Toyman
I held my struts flat at each end and CA'ed 1mm CF rod to each of them.

Straightened and strengthened
That'll do it, as will even balsa strips!

Aeronca
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeronca
That'll do it, as will even balsa strips!

Aeronca

There's one place that sells Ply Strut upgrades if you perform a search as I do not recall who at this moment.

If you are planning to spin the model and snap roll it, I believe you need a harder and stronger strut material than "balsa strips"
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guapoman2000
There's one place that sells Ply Strut upgrades if you perform a search as I do not recall who at this moment.

If you are planning to spin the model and snap roll it, I believe you need a harder and stronger strut material than "balsa strips"

For ply struts you can try http://www.allerc.com

I know they used to sell them for the Pico TM because I bought 3 sets from them.

Good luck!

Aeronca
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Old Apr 02, 2008, 12:37 PM
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My TM400 build is progressing with the help of this thread.

My latest issue is with the last (back) few inches of the fuse being twisted. At a minimum I need to adjust where the the horz. stab. mounts to get it parallel with the wing and I could block sand the sides of the fuse so it looks right. I've read about using hot water to bend foam but I'm nervous about trying this.

Recommendations?

Thanks, Bob
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Old Apr 02, 2008, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rperego
My TM400 build is progressing with the help of this thread.

My latest issue is with the last (back) few inches of the fuse being twisted. At a minimum I need to adjust where the the horz. stab. mounts to get it parallel with the wing and I could block sand the sides of the fuse so it looks right. I've read about using hot water to bend foam but I'm nervous about trying this.

Recommendations?

Thanks, Bob
Hi Bob... I recall the two fuse halves on mine didn't line up perfectly where they meet, but didn't see twist needing correction. I just glued the two halves together such that there would be the minimum amount of sanding need on the top/bottom join lines along the entire fuse, then countoured the high side of the stab location to match the lower side. If there's any twist, it really doesn't matter. Just glue the vertical and horizontal stabs on and align visually as you normally would.
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Old Apr 02, 2008, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rperego
My TM400 build is progressing with the help of this thread.

My latest issue is with the last (back) few inches of the fuse being twisted. At a minimum I need to adjust where the the horz. stab. mounts to get it parallel with the wing and I could block sand the sides of the fuse so it looks right. I've read about using hot water to bend foam but I'm nervous about trying this.

Recommendations?

Thanks, Bob
Hi Bob,

I'm also building another TM 400 right now, and it's my opinion that you may be biting off more than you can chew with trying to use hot water to bend the type of foam that our Tiger Moths are made of.

It's hard trying to determine how badly your fuse is twisted, because our assessments of 'twist' are pretty much subjective. I do think however that once the fuse halves are glued together, a gentle untwisting is nigh impossible. Perhaps if you could take some well placed pictures, we'd have a better idea of how badly (or not) it's twisted.

For future builds, try gluing the halves together, one inch at a time, from the nose towards the tail. Glue an inch, then stop and check to see how it's coming along by sighting down the seam. The whole process should take no more than 20 minutes or so, but it guarantees a straight fuse.

For a fuse that is severely twisted, you may have to think about breaking the glue joint and starting over.

For a fool proof method of aligning your stab to the wing, click on my Avatar and go to my Blog page, where I just a few days ago, detailed out how I do this process.

Let me know how you're coming along!

Chuck
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