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Old Jan 13, 2005, 04:33 PM
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S. Jersey, US, the 51 state
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Willow parmagin.
The TM400 was my second plane and I had NO problems it was very easy to fly
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Old Jan 13, 2005, 05:46 PM
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San Diego, CA.
Joined Feb 2003
231 Posts
Hello all,

Great build thread thank's for the info. I am picking up one of these in the next day or so and will get started on it. Has anybody built a more scale/stronger landing gear for this plane yet? I am getting the moth for doing touch and goes and want the gear to hold up for the long haul.

Rob,
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Old Jan 13, 2005, 06:13 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,138 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smooth Spanky
I received the Apogee pack in the mail today so I can help out a bit. The pictures should give you an idea of the size differences. The Apogee pack is the 3S 2480 and the other pack is a 2S 1500.

I found a very crude food scale and I measured 3.1 oz versus 5.2 oz. My calibrated hand said that the 2480 was twice the weight of the 1500, but I guess I'd trust the scale for now.

I can't speak to performance I've the new pack, but I'll let you know once I get some time to install it.

Hope this helps.

S.S.
I'd be interested in how your balance comes out with the bigger pack. My 2/3A 8 cell NiMH pack shoved to the front of the normal forwardmost point of the (enlarged) battery bay balances near the aft inside edge of the fuselage cabane strut, and my pack weighs just 6.3 OZ. I've not maidened it yet, and am trying to get a concensus of the proper balance point relative to something we can measure from (not the lower wing reference) I saw another post that mentioned 6 cm behind the UPPER wing leading edge as being good, but I'm still about 1 cm behind that (still tail heavy), even with a heavy 10 x 5 APC E prop. I guess my AXI is too light
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Old Jan 13, 2005, 07:11 PM
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Wakeman oh.
Joined Oct 2003
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0~10mm from leading edge of lower wing with plane upside down.I have a TP2200 11.1v in mine had to add all the clay plus some of my kids.Thing flys real bad if tail heavy.
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Old Jan 14, 2005, 12:05 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenron
0~10mm from leading edge of lower wing with plane upside down.I have a TP2200 11.1v in mine had to add all the clay plus some of my kids.Thing flys real bad if tail heavy.
Thanks... that's the range recommended in the manual. I guess inverting plane does enable balancing from the lower wing, but I find it easier to support and see if the plane is level when it is upright, so am trying to equate that with an upper wing measurement. I can find that point that equates to the balance range in the manual, but am trying to determine from those who are flying this plane if the manual is correct. From what I've gleaned from postings, It sounds like the point furthest aft in the range is best, or possibly a little further back. But going back too far could mean flying too tail heavy so I am being cautious.

I think I've found the problem I have with getting proper balance. I forgot most are probably using the brushed 400 motor that comes with the kit, and my AXI is closer in weight to the smaller 350 motor that comes with most other GWS kits of this size. The 400 motor weighs about 2 oz MORE than my AXI outrunner. So even though my 8 cell NiMH pack weighs about 2 oz more than a large LiPo pack, it is more centered on the balance point and does not compensate for the heavy motor out on the end of the stick.

Looks like I will have to add some clay to safely maiden my TM until I find the balance I like, then see if I can eliminate the clay by moving the battery pack forward through the firewall. Or maybe this is a good excuse to get a larger and heavier AXI
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Old Jan 14, 2005, 12:38 PM
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USA, MO, Kansas City
Joined Feb 2004
509 Posts
Smooth Spanky,

Does the 2480 Apogee pack fit in the TM 400? What are its dimensions of the pack?

Have any idea if it will fit in the PT-17? I am considering a TM 400 or a PT-17. I have the older style Tanic 2200 and 2600 3S packs which are fairly good sized.
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Old Jan 16, 2005, 10:31 PM
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Hi all, thanks for a great thread! You've inspired me to go get a TM of my own. This is my first GWS/foam model, and I had a couple of questions about how things fit together. In dry fitting the fuse halves together, I noticed: i) that the holes (especially the motor mount hole) are not perfectly symmetrical, and ii) that the one side is slightly longer than the other, so that where the tail is supposed to glue in is not quite square, and will require some sanding. If I stick the motor mount in its hole, the fuse halves won't line up, the right side is slightly higher than the left. Is this "normal"?
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Old Jan 16, 2005, 11:38 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
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MIne was a slope glider version, not pre-painted, but I doubt that would make any difference. My motor mount holes were like yours, but since I was mounting a bottom mounted stick, I did not use it and that made no difference.

I don't recall the one side being longer, though. I'd line of the cockpits, tail, etc. as best as it will fit and let the front have the slightly longer offset if possible. Since it will be covered by the cowl, it will not show up. Bummer since yours is pre-painted and now will need some matching touch-up paint, if you can find a match.
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 08:24 AM
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Somerset
Joined Nov 2004
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Urghhh, looks to me that you've glued it incorrectly - whilst securing mine after applying glue, I could contort mine to look as yours has set, but I held it by hand until it cured, and due to that its complete even - its not a fault in the kit, you've just got to be very careful when you glue it.

In my experience of GWS models, this is the best molded set I've built yet, a pleasure to put together!
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashleyhall
Urghhh, looks to me that you've glued it incorrectly - whilst securing mine after applying glue, I could contort mine to look as yours has set, but I held it by hand until it cured, and due to that its complete even - its not a fault in the kit, you've just got to be very careful when you glue it.
Except that it's not glued!

I figured that I'd dry fit everything before gluing anything (perfect paranoia is perfect awareness!). The two sides are held together with elastic bands.
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 09:33 AM
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United States, GA, Kennesaw
Joined Jul 2002
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I have noticed on some that same situation. My last is one I glued together, and made slight adjustments with a super fine fileset and sandpaper. I concur with AshleyHall. This kit was a peice of cake for ARF foam. Popped it together with very thin applications of 60 second epoxy.

Mentioned earlier in the thread, ensure that you clean the paint from all recess areas of plane if your going to drop some glue to retain a part. ALWAYS GLUE TO FOAM NOT PAINT. ;^)>.
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 09:41 AM
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United States, GA, Kennesaw
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Look at the images well, it does appear there maybe a slight QC issue dealing with the injection temperature of the foam. Notice the surface area and texture of the left peice is more "bulbus" and less smooth, hinting that the pressure, heat, and amount of foam was not as great as the peice from the right. This is just the realm of subposition here, it could be that the seal on the mold that cast the peice on the left may have been leaking?

No big deal either way, mine was similar, and this is mass production. It in no way hampered the flight, and was only minor inconvience in assembly.
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 10:04 AM
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Joined May 2004
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p-40-
The apogee 2480 fits perfectly in the battery bay. And it is heavy enough to balance the plane. Do not apply velcro to the inside of the battery bay and on the battery as you will never get it out. Having ripped my battery out I am searching for a new way to secure it.
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 10:09 AM
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Somerset
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Aahhhhh, glad you haven't yet glued it - you'll notice then that you can infact contort the frame to make the front/rear level, this should also give the fuselage a straight line. Once glued, make sure you keep an eye on it until set, that way should the fuselage appear warped, you can alter it before its too late.

Personally, I used the GWS glue to glue the two halves, this gave me ample time to make minor adjustments before it set - I used Masking table wrapped around in inch intervals, I could then make tiny adjustments to its alignment - Epoxy is very unforgiving, particularly 60second!! Its also heavier and harder to clean from bits to which it shouldn't be stuck.
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 10:42 AM
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United States, GA, Kennesaw
Joined Jul 2002
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Yes, unforgiving, but quick! Its double edged, and more fun if you mix with baking soda. The way I apply it, its not really heavier, or harder to clean, you MUST be quick with the cleanup.
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