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Old Feb 20, 2002, 10:44 PM
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United States, TX, Midland
Joined Apr 2001
462 Posts
Prog. JR8103 for motor control+4 servo wing

I'm trying to set-up a Stork-E electric sailplane with a 4 servo wing. I would prefer to retain crow and 3 position preset switch but have motor control on throttle stick or Aux2 pot rather than off-on switch. I don't care if crow is on throttle stick and motor control on Aux2 or the other way around as long as I have propotional motor control. Anyone have suggestions on how to acheive this? Thanks for the help!
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Old Feb 21, 2002, 06:18 AM
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Ben Diss's Avatar
USA, NY, Chestnut Ridge
Joined Jun 2000
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I do it by programming the gear switch to disable the motor when forward. For normal TD ships, I program it this way for landing mode so that the flaps go all the way down. This way it's still intuitive for me. Using this method, when the switch is away from you, the stick doesn't effect the flaps and controls the motor. When it's towards you, it doesn't effect the motor, only the flaps. You have to remember to stop the motor at the top of the climb by throwing the switch. If you bring the stick down and then throw the switch you'll deploy flaps.

-Ben
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Old Feb 21, 2002, 04:33 PM
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Ben, thanks for the quick response. I saw your earlier posting with this solution. I was concerned though about suddenly dumping the flaps with their extra lift to get full throttle. Paticularly in a too low/slow approach or when necessary to go around. Since this is my first large electric sailplane I'm not sure what to expect. Am I worrying unnecessarily? In full scale we always cram in the throttle first then milk up the flaps in a go around situation.

John
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Old Feb 21, 2002, 06:01 PM
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NickW's Avatar
Providence, RI
Joined Nov 2000
344 Posts
Ok this is my suggestion

I like to use the throttle stick for both throttle and for camber and or flap control. Setup your airplane so that the throttle is active when the crow switch is away from you. This should happen all by itself anyway. Then use one of your free mixes so that when the crow switch is flipped towards you the throttle is inactive. This is an "inhibitive" mix, that mixes channel 1 back into channel 1. Use a negative mix percentage and an offset at both ends of the stick travel and no matter where that stick is, you will not get throttle response when that switch is towards you. Now setup your flaps on the throttle stick.

To launch you keep the switch away from you and you have proportional throttle control. With the stick at full throttle throw the switch and you now have no throttle and no flap. Pull a little bit of the stick down for some camber, and pull it all the way down for full flap. For a go around you have to flip the switch and then push the stick back up to full throttle. Easily done with enough height.

This took me a while to figure out, and needless to say, take the prop off while you program!

Hope this helps.

Nick Wisdom
Orlando, FL
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Old Feb 21, 2002, 09:17 PM
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Thanks Nick, same question about go arounds though. I'm getting the impression that due to the power to weight ratio involved, dumping the flaps quickly is OK as the thrust is enough to pull the bird right into a climb, yes, no? My full scale light aircraft training shudders at this, a major no-no. As I said the Stork-E is my first large electric sailplane so I'm at the bottom of the learning curve here. Thanks again.

John
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Old Feb 22, 2002, 07:19 AM
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In my Mooney, I do as you say. I smoothly apply full power, rotate to positive attitude, flick the flap up switch, pull up the gear, stop the flaps at half, check attitude and airspeed. On the electric glider I just flip the gear/crow switch and point the nose up.

-B
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Old Feb 22, 2002, 09:28 AM
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NickW's Avatar
Providence, RI
Joined Nov 2000
344 Posts
I know you are worried about sharing the throttle stick but I wouldnt be. I dont find it to be a problem. You should be able to make the go around no go around decision at a reasonable enough altitude where you will have plenty of time to pull the flaps up, maintain level flight and add throttle to climb.

If you are really worried about this, these are some other ideas for 8103 programming. Put the flaps on the three position switch instead. You could have one position as a little bit of camber. And another position thats full flaps down. But I dont care for this setup personally. I like proportional control of my flaps. And you will most likely have to be aware of ballooning when you first hit that switch till the elevator compensation kicks in.

I have also never messed around with the rotating knobs (pots 5-7) on the 8103, but you should also be able to get flap control there. I find that clumsy and it takes my hands too far from the sticks for my liking, but its another option.

Most of my stick time is on nonpowered sailplanes. So there really isnt a go around procedure. A carefully planned approach with flaps means you shouldnt have to worry about it.

To address your question properly though: You mention that you could dump the flaps quickly and apply a considerable amount of throttle power and that will be ok. True. But consider this. Even a marginally powered glider could still do this. You pull up flaps and enter level unpowered flight. Then you add throttle. Then gain some speed at a level altitude and enter a shallow climb. You dont need a lot of power to do this. When you drop flaps the airplane will not drop out of the sky. (this is assuming you have enough down elevator compensation dialed in and a decent flying speed)

Anyway.. all of this comes down to personal preference. Try some different setups and practice go arounds at altitude. If you dont like it try something else. The F5B guys just put their throttles on a switch which is another option too. On a ship as advanced as the stork I consider throttle secondary. I would want to make sure I can take full advantage of crow, flaps, camber, reflex etc. So I would setup my radio for these first, and then consider throttle second.

Good Luck (sorry I keep rambling on!!!)

Nick Wisdom
Orlando, FL
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Old Feb 22, 2002, 06:09 PM
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Napa, California, United States
Joined Feb 2001
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Being a rookie 3 meter pilot myself I had the same worries. But with flaps and spoilers you won't be making many go arounds. Great glide control and they slow to walking speed.

I plugged my throttle into aux 3 and use the mixing switch for motor control.Most controlers have a soft strart. My first set up had motor on spoiler stick but find I like on off just fine.

Only other problem is this sailplane flying makes my neck stiff because of the long flight times. I guess that's not all bad.

garyg
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Old Feb 22, 2002, 06:14 PM
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Napa, California, United States
Joined Feb 2001
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Oh yeah in my Piper Pacer you push in carb heat and throttle to go around.

garyg
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