The ITC Bladerunner thread is now reaching epic proportions in terms of the numbers of posts. This is a daunting task to peruse for someone looking for some quick answers. At the suggestion of Dave Wulff I've started this thread to summarize solutions and Frequently Asked Questions. This helps aleviate the need to start a new Bladerunner thread every time someone wants to ask a question.

As usual in these summary threads this thread is not the place to discuss things. We want to keep it short. I'll go through periodically and delete posts that are not summarizing a technique or answering a commonly asked question.

So, if you have a technique or tip worth adding, please post away in this thread to help others.

I've also started a "Bladerunner Part 2" thread and closed the original. discussion of techniques and experiences should now be posted in this thread.

Gordon

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I'll start by repeating ssling (Dale In Singapore)'s post #559 from the big Bladerunner thread. He provides links to documents on his web site that summarize a lot of the Bladerunner thread.

================ SSLING's POST ==================

Hello all,

I live in an area (SE ASIA) where the bladerunner is not yet available, but I have been following the thread. It is getting difficult to keep up with all the posts. For what it is worth, I have tried to the best of my ability to create a document that contains all the modifications and suggestions that I could cull from these pages. I have revised it, and sent it to Petter for his revisions and additions. I will post it on my website (the link is provided below) and I will try to update it daily. If it is possible to post a sticky to keep this at the top of the thread, that would be nice, but I do not know much about forums and how they operate. I can't figure out how to contact the moderator, for example. However, for what it is worth, here is a place where you can get a reasonably complete and up-to-date list of modifications and changes. I am no rc expert, so some the modifications may not go into the same depth as the thread. Modifications and suggestions are always welcome.
I am experimenting with MS Word and Adobe formats. The link is:

http://theclassroom.50megs.com/Blade...nformation.doc
OR
http://theclassroom.50megs.com/Blade...nformation.pdf

Hope this helps, especially new people to the thread. Like me!
Happy Hunting,

Dale in Singapore

In my experience the cat killer mod is over kill if you totally lighten up the BR. If you run the stock body the mod seems to help the agility. BUT if you do all the weight saving mods and cat killer you could make the BR too sensative to where you induce too much control and have rotor clashing.

Just my observations in a large dead air room with plenty of room to let the thing loose. I would also mention that my BR is a prolly one of the newer ones with the better stock battery and the rotors with the carbon wheel vs. the glass white ones. I don't believe my BR is a first gen. Maybe 2nd gen... It actually flew pretty well stock. BUT I do like the zip it has now. I may try adding some scotch tape...small piece to the tail prop to tame it a little. Other than that I'm like most and just love this darn toy!

ADDED: Yes a little tape on each tip of the tail motor prop slowed down the rpms back there. With the ring gone the BR would work the boom down and up if left on the ground sitting on the landing gear and full forward/backward was given at the transmitter. Now with the addition of scotch tape...just the normal clear 1/4" wide wrapped around each blade tip to allow the tape to extend off the tip approx 4mm but not wider than the prop itself slowed the rpms down to allow for better control. I have the tape on the prop about 4mm too. Seems right. More or less tape could help tune for the feeling you want.

__________
Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO

I agree with Ron here, mine is one of the early ones but with the weight savings, and cat-killer I find it has too much pitch control, it is prone to rotor clashing.

I think it should be left as the last mod you do, wait and see waht you think after a few flights with the tail stock.

Grant

If your charger is working properly, battery should charge to 4.2 volts.

can anyone tell me where in the UK it is possible to get N20 motors suitable as replacements for the bladerunner?

Scott

just a q, is the radio set up like a normal heli tx? colictive on the left,pitch and ail on right stick?

Pitch & yaw are on the right stick. There is no roll control. In the document listed above there is a way to mod the Tx to have yaw & throt on left stick & pitch on right stick to more closely resemble a proper heli Tx.

Steve-S

a Question about the charger on Qvc models. I under stand the new batt. is 300Mah 4.2 V Lith-Poly takes 20+/- min charge and has VOLT cut off.

But @ what Mah does it charge.? Will it charge down to a 145mah 4.2 Volt Lith-poly pack. If sooo i can get some of these small batts and throw them in a ZipzaP.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294497

maybee there is a way to switch the current and cut it in half.?

Originally Posted by bEbOp ¿?

a Question about the charger on Qvc models. I under stand the new batt. is 300Mah 4.2 V Lith-Poly takes 20+/- min charge and has VOLT cut off.

But @ what Mah does it charge.? Will it charge down to a 145mah 4.2 Volt Lith-poly pack. If sooo i can get some of these small batts and throw them in a ZipzaP.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294497

maybee there is a way to switch the current and cut it in half.?

All lipos are charges at 1C. To cut the current in half you just have to double the value of the current sense resistor. If you download the data sheet for the AAT3680 IC, there is an equation on page 10.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=499

I think a better option is to build your own. There are plans in the DIY forum, only a small number of parts and probably under $10.

Just a reminder to please summarize and post tips and answers to FAQ here, in this thread.

Gordon

I have seen where a lot of guys use c/a to make repairs. Personaly I have had NO luck with it. I broke the lower rotor head, I used hot glue on and around the break with an equal amount on the other side for ballance and it works great. Also if you break the rotor blade strut you can use a little model cement and a small piece of heat shrink tubing to hold it together. Keeps it in the air till the replacement rotors get here and it flys as good as it ever did.

What would happen if you bent the tail 90 degrees?

Steve

Would a 3.7v 340 lipo work on the bladerunner?

I REALY NEED TO KNOW!

Alex