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Old Oct 20, 2004, 09:01 AM
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Dr Honda's Avatar
Pittsburgh Allegheny, Pennsylvania, United States
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Cheap DIY Shogun belt drive.

Hi All,

OK... before I get started... I must give credit to the person who gave me the starting point on this install. The original info was seen at www.cuttingedgecnc.com

This install is almost the same... but I changed a few things that I did not like. (hacking up the frame mostly) Go over to his webstie and look over his install for the details. Oh... and to buy the parts listed will cost you around $20

OK... the things I did different:

1) I did not flip over the main gear. I found there was no real reason to do this. Flipping the gear leads to having to cut the frame open, and having to move your tail servo. There is JUST enough room to leave the gear in its stock location. But by not moving the gear down, you will have to raise your tail boom slightly ( aprox .090") and you will have to sand the tips of the gear teeth so the belt won't snag on them. I found that the tips of the gear teeth were higher than the base. so all that has to be done is to take a Dremel or a file, and just make the top of the gear flat. I used 3 small peices of .030 "Plasti Sruct" styren to shim up the tail boom to the right hight. Raising the tial boom will requier you to use longer screws in the clamp. Dubro 2mm x 12mm work perfect.

2) I used a 40 toth main drive pully apposed to the 36 tooth. I did this because there has been a few people say that if the head speed drops... you loose tail control... and the higher spped tail will give you better responce. BUT... if you are doing HOT 3D... you may want to stick with the 36 tooth, because the tail speed may be too high!!. for the normal sport flyer, with a head speed below 2300 rpm, I recomend the 40 tooth.








3) I did not like the Idea of using a hex shaft to hold the cut output gear onto the evevator see-saw. I felt that by using an e-clip, or wheel coller would alow the servo arm to come loose. So, I cut a smal keyway into the see-saw, and a key into the output gear. there was a slight tapper fit, so it would snug up as the bolt was tightend that was holding them together. (2mm x 12mm) But after a few weeks of flying my Shogun... it seemd as if the elevator trim would change. well, after closer inspection I found that the keyway in the elevator arm had spred opem from the stress, allowing the output gear to move slightly. this problem was cured by sliping over a 5mm ID bushing. the one in the picture happens to be a centering bushing for an APC slow flyer prop. But a small 5mm bushing of any type will work. this will keep the kyway from spreding, and it helps keep the output shaft centered. This method of assembling the see-saw allows you to install and remove the parts without splitting the frame.






Now for one last tip. the pin in your stock tail pitch slider WILL FALL OUT. So, just pull it out now, and reduce slop. I used a 2-56 bolt and the base off of a dubro 2-56 ball link. the tappered base will fit into the taper of you stock bell crank, and the 2-56 bolt will bite into the plastic housing of the pitch slider. You must leave it a little loose, because the bolt has to have room to rotate as the slider moves back and forth. This is not the "Cure all" solution to tail slop... but it helps, and it will keep you from crashing because of the stock pin falling out during flight!!




OK... I will have to post the part #'s later. (I forgot them at home)

I'm happy to answer any questions you may have. Oh... and I don't feel like fixing my spelling. so live with it
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 09:16 AM
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helibobber's Avatar
Western NY state, United States
Joined Jun 2004
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I did the same conversion project and am very pleased with it too. I did flip the main gear which did require some sanding of the lower frame. I think your idea of not flipping it is a great idea. I did use an e-clip on the elevator arm and it is holding fine. Your idea is much better though and I may have to try it.
I cut far less material off the elevator see-saw than you did. Is it because you didn't flip the gear?
Also can you explain your tail pitch slider a little more? I'm not clear on the use of the cut off ball link idea. I like the idea of changing the stock setup very much.
Good job!
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 09:23 AM
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Western NY state, United States
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Here's a shot of my elevator arm using an e-clip. I have noticed a little play in it where it passes through the frame. No big thing but I would prefer it to be solid.
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 09:09 PM
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Dr Honda's Avatar
Pittsburgh Allegheny, Pennsylvania, United States
Joined May 2004
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ok... the parts for this conversion can be orderd from https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

and tha part #'s are:

Belt 3mm Neoprene Fiberglass MXL 412 Grooves A 6Z16M412030
10T Pulley MXL 2 Flange with hub, polycarbonate A 6M16M010DF6003
40T Pulley MXL 1 Flange, no hub, polycarbonate A 6M16M040SF60


good luck
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Old Oct 21, 2004, 12:07 AM
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EddieNewYork's Avatar
Los Angeles, CA
Joined Apr 2004
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Looks great dude! I'm going to have to save this in my archives. I didn't plan on going to a belt system anytime soon, but if I do... this post will definitely help a lot. I also like the fact that the costs are minimal.
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Old Oct 21, 2004, 02:18 AM
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jerrysimon's Avatar
Cambridge, England
Joined Jan 2001
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Great post. Thanks for showing us

Jerry
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Old Oct 22, 2004, 09:00 PM
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Houston, TX USA
Joined Nov 2000
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Do you have to do the elevator see-saw mod when you convert to belt drive, or did you just do it because it was already apart.

Thanks
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Old Oct 22, 2004, 09:11 PM
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USA, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Mar 1999
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Weighing in here, for I'm working on this mod now with the help of Dr. Honda. You have to do the see-saw mod so the pulley will fit. I have made a servo mount that places the servo behind the swash. One could also be made to put it in front of the swash tucked under the canopy. I'll still have to remove the lower area of the see-saw but won't have the torsion type of elevator control. I haven't tested my the mount but I'm cautiously optimistic. The rear see-saw arm is simply removed and is replaced with a servo-direct ball link at the swash. That's the plan. The front arm is kept in place to keep the swash straight.

Merely an alternative.
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Old Oct 22, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Pittsburgh Allegheny, Pennsylvania, United States
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yup... what he said.

Can't wait to see the new servo mount.
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Old Oct 23, 2004, 12:21 AM
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Hi eekflyer!

After reading a few times only then I got what you were trying to describe.

Would like to see the picture of the mounts you made for the servo to be mounted at the rear of the Swash.

My personal opinion would be mounting the servo in front of the Swash, under the Canopy.

I have read quite a number of posts on other modifying the servo gear to replace idea of linking the rod on the inside, and I don't quite like that idea. Drilling the frame does warrant a solid fit at all.

Hope to see those pictures.
Thanks!
Alfie


Quote:
Originally Posted by eekflyer
Weighing in here, for I'm working on this mod now with the help of Dr. Honda. You have to do the see-saw mod so the pulley will fit. I have made a servo mount that places the servo behind the swash. One could also be made to put it in front of the swash tucked under the canopy. I'll still have to remove the lower area of the see-saw but won't have the torsion type of elevator control. I haven't tested my the mount but I'm cautiously optimistic. The rear see-saw arm is simply removed and is replaced with a servo-direct ball link at the swash. That's the plan. The front arm is kept in place to keep the swash straight.

Merely an alternative.
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Old Oct 23, 2004, 05:47 PM
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Houston, TX USA
Joined Nov 2000
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If your using a long pinnion on the motor does that create a problem with the belt drive?

How thick is the carbon plate that is used to make the belt guide thing. It has the 2 bearings attached to it.

Thanks
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Old Oct 23, 2004, 07:41 PM
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eekflyer's Avatar
USA, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Mar 1999
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Servo mount alternative

Here are the pics of the mount I cut out of clear acrylic. A simple mount made of thin aluminum should fit under the canopy. Use your imagination to add the elevator assy. and connect a ball link to a longer servo arm. Food for thought.

EEK
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Last edited by eekflyer; Oct 23, 2004 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2004, 08:44 AM
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United States, MI, Goodrich
Joined Mar 2004
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I say you just go CCPM!!! Cool mount idea.
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Old Oct 27, 2004, 08:32 PM
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Bumped
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Old Oct 27, 2004, 08:46 PM
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Pittsburgh Allegheny, Pennsylvania, United States
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Depending on exactly where the guide bearings are... you can use the long pinon. My first couple flights with the belt drive were with the pinion in the stock position. (it fits with almost no clearance) After a few succesfull flights... I droped the pinion down, even with the main gear.

If your bearings are just a little closer together than mine... the pinoin will hit the belt. And since they are running different speeds / directions... it can snap the belt if they touch during a flight.

Oh... And my bearing plate is made from G10 fiberglass. so... it's about .030" thick. whatever you use... it doesn't have to be very strong... but it should be rigid. (don't use thin plastic for that part)
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Last edited by Dr Honda; Oct 27, 2004 at 08:58 PM.
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