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Old Nov 18, 2004, 07:31 AM
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Marietta, Ga
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More Helo

Photos
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Old Nov 18, 2004, 09:18 AM
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Thanks for research

Wilt - wow - thanks for the helo research! I never thought of posting that kind of stuff. I'll post links for info I found on the saucer sub. After a lot of web search have really only one good pic. I'll get to it tonight.
Dan
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Old Nov 18, 2004, 09:24 AM
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Hi Dan,

I'm pretty sure that there were several photos of the saucer sub printed in National Geographic in April 1960 (shameless plug ...my wife sells old NG's online at www.abong.com). I'll take a look tonight and see what I can find, and post some pics.

Regards,

Raymond

Here they are, there are a few more if you are interested.
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Last edited by RGinCanada; Nov 19, 2004 at 07:14 AM. Reason: Added pictures
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Old Nov 19, 2004, 08:53 AM
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Here's some more:
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Last edited by RGinCanada; Nov 19, 2004 at 09:05 PM. Reason: Oops, forgot the pictures!!!
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Old Nov 19, 2004, 04:55 PM
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I see a total of four pics in the first post, and no pics in the second "here's some more" post.
Thanks for posting - great research material!!!
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Old Nov 19, 2004, 04:59 PM
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Wow - check out Calypso pic 2 above

See what's on the upper deck! A SHARK CAGE! What a great detail to add. Every pic I see of the Calypso it is totally jammed and cluttered with equipment, unlike the "sparsely furnished" decks of the model. This model needs tons of deck clutter to give the real feel of the research vessel and it's activities. The shark cage is a must do....
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Old Nov 21, 2004, 03:51 AM
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Marietta, Ga
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Calypso Today

Have you guys seen these?
You can really see her planking.
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Old Nov 21, 2004, 05:17 PM
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Breaks my heart to see her in that condition after all the fond memories of my childhood watching Cousteau's TV shows & specials. I'm very glad it looks like they're finally going to restore the ol' gal!!!

Jesse
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Old Nov 28, 2004, 06:55 AM
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First Scratch Attempt

Ok.....Here's my Helo interior. I used scrap pieces of the white ABS, Bondo, and Crayola modeling clay that dries hard. The paint seems a bit shiny but the helo windows aren't that clear so it may not matter. If I need to dull it, what's the best way?

Wilt
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Old Nov 28, 2004, 07:46 AM
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Panama City, Panama
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The best way I could think to dull the shine a but would be give it a light coat of semi-gloss or satin clear spray paint. You could also use a dull coat but that might take away some of the shadowing effects. When I was building static models I always used a flat enamel for seat fabric with good results. Flesh is always a dificult one to get right though. Very impressive detail though. Looks great!
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 02:40 AM
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Impressive

Wilt - very cool, especially given the size! The penny really shows how samll you worked the detail.
On some SCRAP piece of material, painted with the same glossy paints you used on the interior, try a mix of PollyScale Satin Finish thinned with some PollyS airbrush thinner and with just a touch of black india ink added. The idea is to brush on a thin wash that will give the satin finish and add darkness to the grooves and indentations of the piece. Go thin and light on the india ink - you can always add additional layers of wash. The wash method works well, but practice on other stuff before you try it on your great interior.
This Calypso has so many detail sub-assemblies to work on, it gives you a sense of progress as the main construction goes on. I finished the sub (with lights that come on when it is lifted from the deck) and made a shark cage and cable spool after seeing teh pictures posted by RGinCanada. Pics attached. I also added a tarp cover to the launch because the opening looked "funny" to me.
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 02:47 AM
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Animation for the Calypso

Slow steady movement seems a hard thing to get for model animation. I found some old 12V car cassette player chassis' at a surplus store and made a low RPM drive from the components. The tape player cost less than $3 and has a great motor, tons of gears and drive wheels, a couple microswitches, etc. Got a 70:1 reduction using the parts - can get down to a very smooth 5RPM that will be great for the crane rotation.
Pics show the genral idea...
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 03:23 PM
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Nice Job

Dan,
Your stuff looks great. The tarp definitely adds realism to the launch.
After some reassessment, I decided to repaint the cockpit. It was just too glossy. I already lost some of the detail with the existing multiple coats of paint and adding more will make it worse. So, I'm in the process of stripping it down. Knotaddicted recommended using flat enamel and I'll try the stain method you recommended to bring out the details.
How's your hull coming along? I'm just getting to the white section. Have been futzing with the helo most of the time. I have my motor and have been sourcing the gears. Although they didn't have everything I was looking for, here's a link to a surplus supplier that has all kinds of gears, motors, belts, bearings, & electronics. http://www.goldmine-elec.com.

Wilt
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 04:01 PM
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paint choice

Wilt-
Try PollyScale paint -at your hobby store. It's flat finish, has an ultrafine pigment so it doesn't hide detail, is water cleanup and easy to work with by brush or airbrush. Windex is the perfect solvent for cleaning it off brushes and for correecting mistakes, eg a little Windex on a swab can clean off a painting mistake if done within a few minutes.
If you want a satin or gloss finish, just overpaint/spray with Pollyscale satin or gloss clear finish, or do a final #600 buff sanding to get the flat finish to a nice smoth sheen.
My hull was on hold while I figured out animation drives, etc - thanks for the link. Next step is to finish prop tube mounting, stern detail and finish paint the red below the waterline. I'll then get the hull upright for the deck and railwork, and paint the black and white hull colors later.
Getting the bottom finish done will also let me float the hull as I plan placement of add different parts so I can keep track of bouyancy and balance.
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 07:18 PM
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PDX, OR
Joined Dec 2002
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Testors sells an clear acrylic flat finish paint that can be airbrushed over the gloss to tone it down if you want. It is usually on top of the "model masters" paint display racks.
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