Hey, I like that retractable antenna/helicopter idea. It sounds like absolutely great "showmanship" of the builder.

WiltP,
I think your are speaking above my head,...
Push the button, make boat go...
There are commercially available channel switches avalable.
They typically come in 8 and 16 switch banks. About 10 dollars a switch.
Which is why I just glue cheap micro switches around a cam mounted on a servo.

Robbe makes such a thing for the F-14 system
http://www.harbormodels.com/Harborma...plates/m20.htm
http://www.hrfsbo.com/sub/radio2.htm

Vantec
seems to make a couple versions also for different radio transmitters.
http://www.vantec.com/khitch.htm

My impression is that this is Graupners version
Graupner multi switch module

There used to be a really simple version available that allowed you to put a simple push button bar on your transmitter, and decoding module in the boat, but I can't recall the manufacturer.

Things I learned so far while building the Calypso.
1. This is much more fun than I expected.
2. Glazing putty works really well on the fine imperfections. However, it disolves oil paint. I had the best results when I sprayed a coat of primer (Rust Oleum sandable) over the area (let it dry a day) before applying the
glazing putty.
3. While working on the hull, it's very easy to crack it at the bow end where the square cut is made. I'm almost thinking it would be best to paint it first than cut it out.
4. Everything is very expensive in the hobby world.
5. Wives don't like it if they think your enjoying yourself.
6. Hanging out in the garage is cool!
7. I fear that I may need to enroll in a 12 step RCaholic Anonymous program when I'm done. Hi! My name is Wilt and I'm an RCaholic.

Oh yea, my motors and ESC's arrived. The Radio is due in two days.

Wilt

Wilt, My name is Pat, I'm a boatnplaneaholic, and I'm INCURABLE... The good news is that my wife doesn't mind, because it's cheaper then Beer joints and you don't end up in jail over it -- and she knows where to find me! True, it can be expensive, but if you compare it to some vices, and concider the cost per hour of entertainment value, it's really not so bad. And when it's done, you have something you can be proud of!
PAT

Here's one. I just completed putting on the 2nd to last coat of paint. Tamyia TS-38. As I was painting, I noticed one area started wrinkleing. The rest of the hull is fine. What's up with that? It's been 24 hours since last coat. Area was sanded like the rest and wiped with a tack cloth. Has the appearance of wrinkled skin.
Your Thoughts?
Wilt

After wiping the hull with the tack cloth, did you rub the hull with your bare hands or fingers? Skin oils can cause paint and varnish to wrinkle and lift from the previous coat. Also, the "tack" in a tack cloth can cause some problems with paint adhesion. Personally, I never use a tack cloth on my models. I use a rag thats dampened with a solvent that's compatible with the paint or other finish that I'm using. For acrylic paints, I dampen the cloth with isopropyl alcohol.

Pat,
Used your logical advice. I didn't get much of a response. Will see how it goes.

Bob,
Looks like the hand oil may be the issue. After your post, I took a break and did some failure analysis. Looks like the spot where the paint wrinkled is the area where I hold the hull the most. I'll tell you, that little episode was a bummer. I sanded down the area and now I'm ready to move forward. Thanks.

In other news, I am now the pround owner of my first radio. Here's all the RC stuff. Kewl!

I am having a problem fitting the deck to the hull. I glued in the deck support
strips 3mm down from the top edge of the hull (the edge was accurately cut and sanded smooth to the marked cut line).
The deck support strips extend forward to the vertical front bulkhead that was glued in place with the lower deck piece.
After placing the deck onto the support strips all looked great until I placed the arched shaped bulkhead that forms the front wall of the main deck cabin.
It extends a good 3/16" too high above the deck top edge, so that the foredeck can't touch the top hull edge.
If I try to lower the deck supports, the deck is too low farther back on the hull. If I bend the supports down, the deck (and cabin structure) will droop down toward the bow. If I cut off the extra height, the cabin walls will also have to be shortened. It's a weird geometry problem. Any thoughts?
Attached diagram shows the general issue.

Welcome Back! Hope your trip went well.
I ran into the same problem. I don't know if I did it correctly, but I moved the deck forward till it was flush at the stern. The instructions indicated that the front wall (the one with the hole and curve should sit on top of the lower deck (RC platform). I placed it forward and glued it on the end instead. It is a bit short but I plan to use a shim strip. This then puts the other bulkhead at the right spot but it's a bit high like yours. I intend to sand it down. Looks like the rest of the pieces will fit. Hope I did it right.

Wilt,
You describe EXACTLY what I found on my kit, too. Did the same as you did.
Problem I see with just sanding down the arch shaped bulkhead is that the cabin will still be too tall to fit under the foredeck that comes back over it.
I'm checking some dimensions tonight against the full scale drawing to see where the problem might be.
I ordered new top-decking from MicroMark. It looks great - caulking between the boards and beautiful fine grain! Pieces are 3" wide so you don't have to lay individual planks.
Also, on the rear hatch cover, instead of cutting out the individual pieces and drilling the indicated holes, I scribed the separation lines to mimic individual hatch covers and glued very small washers on to provide the round bases for the hand grabs.
I'll post pics later.
When I get to RC, I'll definitely have Q's for you. Your stuff looks really cool.

Here are some pics:
1. Aft hatch cover with scribed separation lines and small washers to avoid drilling many tiny holes.
2. Decking pics. Panels are 3" x 22" and have simulated caulk.
3. Front bulkhead sanded at edges only to allow upper foredeck to attach to hull sides, but keeping center bulkhead height to match cabin wall height

On mine, I had to add in some balsa planks to pull the hull together for the deck to fit in.

In the pic you can see my masking tape job holding things in place while the epoxy sets on the three planks...

Substructure

Andy -
I'm in Blomington. About as far along as you on construction. Got my Calypso and getting R/C advice at Hub Hobby. Where do you go?
We should get together, compare notes...
DanL

I've checked my hull with RC deck in the bathtub. With a 7 cell C battery back, moters, and RC gear, it floats pretty darn close to the waterline. I don't think this kit will need much ballast unless the superstructure makes it overly top heavy. Even then, just a bit of weight under the RC deck should do the trick. It sure isn't going to take much.

- ASZ

I also had the problem with fitting the Hull and Deck. I used rubber bands to keep it together till the glue dried.
Status:
Started working on the copter. I'm just cutting out the pieces. I think I may be missing some parts. Here's one I know is not in the kit.
Still painting the hull.
Andy are you also building the Calypso?
Wilt

P.S. Dan the technique you suggested for the rough cutting and than sanding the parts worked great for me. Thanks

Building....I guess you could say that. The kit has been in and out of storage for at least 4 years now. Hopefully I'll have it unpacked again soon.