Okay, this is my first build thread, my first 3D plane, my first EPP plane and my first overpowered plane, so bear with me and everything hopefully will turn out okay.

You may have already seen Graham Allen's new EPP Toccata in his initial thread and here I will attempt to document the entire build.

I was made aware of the development of this kit around 4 or 5 weeks ago and put my name down for one of the first batch. I was excited to see it turn up last week and dived straight into the build.

My model will be running the AXI 2208/34 (modified to have the shaft poke out the opposite side and use a back mount adaptor plate) with a 9x3.8 APC prop, Jeti Advance 08-3P ESC and E-Tec 3S-700 pack. My radio gear is a JR610 micro receiver with JR NES-371 micro servos. These servos are a little heavier than recommended and as I found out make it difficult to achieve the correct CG due to the stab and rudder servos being mounted in the rear of the fuse.

First up DO's and DON'T's:

DO use light radio equipment - 4 or 5 gram servos are best.
DO use the recommended 3M 77 spray adhesive. I used a no name craft store brand with less than desirable results.
DO take time to double check all the alignments of parts. I glued in the motor mount pointing down without realising and had to shim out the bottom of the motor and re-drill the mounting holes to get a zero thrust line.
DON'T go overboard on the glue. I used the entire tube of supplied glue and then some more! This doesn't help with achieving the correct CG.

Now to the pictures. Below is the essence of this kit - the wing. It is supplied like this, as cut, with the waste to aid in assembly.

The LE and TE of the wing have beads of glue run the entire length; the carbon spar is glued in the pre cut slot; wing tips plugs, a LE block and servo mounting ribs are cut from the internal waste and glued in place, then the whole assembly is wrapped in greased (baking) paper and sandwiched back in to the wing core. This is weighted down with books or other weights and left overnight.

Fuselage construction can begin while the wing is drying. First centre lines are marked on all the fuse components to aid with correct alignment. A 3mm hole needs to be cut in the rear of each fuse half where the stab pivot tube will pass through. 3M77 is sprayed where the reinforcing tapes will be applied and also where the keel piece will be fitted down the centre. The tape is then applied and the fuse fronts are sprayed again with 3M77.

The front fuse doublers are then sprayed and fitted. The velcro which allows access to the radio gear and battery is also fitted here behind the doublers.

The keel piece is sprayed and fitted to one fuse half, along the centreline at the front, and then moving below the centreline at the rear to clear the stab pivot tube.

The other fuse half is then layed down over the keel piece, starting with the rear of the fuse pieces lined up to each other. In this photo you can see the motor mount block and wing dry fitted also.

The motor mount block is first prepared by chamfering the edges to match the laser cut motor mount plate. The second photo shows the mount plate, the laser cut horns and stab pivot tube guide plates.

The motor bulkhead is fitted to the mounting block with 3M77 and then taped with the supplied fibreglass tape.

The motor mount assembly is then glued in place with 5 minute epoxy over the wing and the fuse sides pinned to wrap around it while the glue sets. The top and bottom fuse side are not glued at this point, just held in place with tape to conform to shape.

The front fuse seams are then glued together and held in place with tape. This is left overnight. You can see the tape on the LE and over the spar on the wing (top and bottom), which is applied after being sprayed with 3M77 once the initial wing assembly had cured.

Once dry, Multibond is applied inside the seams and I also applied it on the outside. You can also glue the wing fillets in place and also the battery mount inside the fuse at this point. While this is drying, one of the plastic pivot plates for the stab pivot tube can be glued in place over one of the 3mm holes in the rear fuse side.

The horizontal stab is made by first gluing in the spacer pieces with 5 minute epoxy, leaving a channel for the pivot tube.

The pivot tube is then epoxied in place on one half of the stab only. The top piece of the stab is then glued on top forming a sandwich, and the whole lot weighted down in between some baking paper. Once cured, Multibond is applied around the perimeter of the stab halves and they are glued together. I used pins, but the suggested way is to use scrap balsa under the edge and on top which is weighted down. My method resulting in a stab which is not perfectly symmetrical.

The stab half with the pivot tube is then slid through the fuse with the plastic pivot plate attached, and also through the control horn, then out the other side of the fuse.

After checking the pivot tube is dead square to the fuse in plan view, the second pivot plate can be tacked in place with epoxy. Later this will be glued around with Multibond. Glue the control horn in place with CA making sure it is 90 degrees to the stab. The second stab half can then be glued in place with epoxy.