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Old Sep 20, 2004, 10:01 AM
Maxx Basher/Savage Hunter
Davcruz's Avatar
Central VA
Joined Sep 2004
281 Posts
How to clean a nitro engine?

As some of you know from my previous post, I recently got a vintage wood cracker box with a K&B .61 engine. The engine is quite gummed up and the carb does not move freely (though the piston does move freely).

So here is the question. What is the best cleaner to use to get it all nice and cleaned out?

Next question. What fuel would you recommend using in this engine and what glow plug?

One last question. Is it possible to convert this engine to a pull start. I am used to nitro buggies and trucks and they are all very easy to start with a nice recoil starter.

Oh, and this is the last question for real. Does this look like an airplane engine? The water cooling is being achieved via what appears to be an add on device from Octura.

Here is the engine:
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 10:41 AM
Registered User
Vernon, Connecticut
Joined Oct 2003
58 Posts
Yep! That's vintage all right. That is an airplane engine that was converted to marine use by adding the Octura 'Kool Clamp' and flywheel. The carb on your engine is a Perry with a composite body. I'm sure the carb needs no more than a good soak in some fresh fuel. The castor oil in the fuel has gummed up the carb barrel and is preventing it from moving. The fresh fuel will desolve the old oil and free things up. You may have to exercise the barrel to help get the fuel into the body/barrel interface. I wouldn't try any type of paint thinner for fear it may attack the body. There is also an 'O' ring inside the carb that seals the needle valve body to the carb body and you don't want to destroy it with some strange solvent. As for the engine. an external wash with lacquer thinner should do the trick.

Glow plug and fuel - I'd install a standard K&B plug or similar and run the engine on 10% nitro fuel with a synthetic/castor lube. I like the castor because it gives that added protection against corrosion since you will be so close to water.

Pull starter? Never heard of one as an after market add on.

John
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 10:46 AM
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pda4you's Avatar
USA, TX, Trophy Club
Joined May 2002
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Go buy a cheap small crock pot from WalMart. Mark it with a permanent maker "poison do not use for food!" and then fill it will anitfreeze. Disassemble the motor, Take the carb off and cook the disassembled motor on low overnight.

Get all the antifreeze off and it should be clean. Reassemble and go fly!

Mike
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 12:38 PM
Maxx Basher/Savage Hunter
Davcruz's Avatar
Central VA
Joined Sep 2004
281 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Palica
Yep! That's vintage all right. That is an airplane engine that was converted to marine use by adding the Octura 'Kool Clamp' and flywheel. The carb on your engine is a Perry with a composite body. I'm sure the carb needs no more than a good soak in some fresh fuel. The castor oil in the fuel has gummed up the carb barrel and is preventing it from moving. The fresh fuel will desolve the old oil and free things up. You may have to exercise the barrel to help get the fuel into the body/barrel interface. I wouldn't try any type of paint thinner for fear it may attack the body. There is also an 'O' ring inside the carb that seals the needle valve body to the carb body and you don't want to destroy it with some strange solvent. As for the engine. an external wash with lacquer thinner should do the trick.

Glow plug and fuel - I'd install a standard K&B plug or similar and run the engine on 10% nitro fuel with a synthetic/castor lube. I like the castor because it gives that added protection against corrosion since you will be so close to water.

Pull starter? Never heard of one as an after market add on.

John
John, thanks for the great tips and information. You must really know your boats!

So on that note, would you know of a more standard boat pipe than the one that is on it now? I am looking for more of a boat type pipe for it.
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 07:09 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,902 Posts
Lots of questions. Try carb or brake cleaner. There is also cleaners that you can get from Hobby Shops in both spray and liquid to clean it up. Use these outdoors, especially if you try the anti-freeze trick!
Pluds and Fuel. McCoy MC-9's, I run them in everything. Fual, a good brand of fuel made for boats, not cars or planes, up to 40-50% with 20% oil content.
The picture is not showing up for me so I'll have to rely on what the others have said. you can get a water-cooled head for it and if it is a plane engine, I'd replace the sleeve to get boat timing, not airplane timing. We're talking about a serious upgrade in HP and RPM.
Yup, no pull-starter made for a K&B .61 . A good electric starter is what you'll need.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 01:16 AM
Useful Idiot
Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
3,545 Posts
If you change the head and sleeve and use 50% nitro, as suggested by Ron, you'd probably want to upgrade to a tuned exhaust for a 60 sized motor to get the full benefits.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 07:19 AM
Maxx Basher/Savage Hunter
Davcruz's Avatar
Central VA
Joined Sep 2004
281 Posts
Very good. Once again thanks guys! I have just learned something new, I did not know that there are different sleeves, heads and pistons for different applications. That is what is so great about these forums. THANKS!
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 07:43 AM
Registered User
Vernon, Connecticut
Joined Oct 2003
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Get real guy's! It's a K&B 61. Why would you direct anyone to put all of that $$$$ into an engine of that style. By the time he got the parts, had the thing modified and running properly he could have bought a modern marine engine. I'm sure his intent is to take the boat out and have some fun. Let's keep it at that. He can live with 10% fuel with some castor oil in it and forget the pipe. For what you would gain in power on an engine that's not timed for a tuned pipe it's not worth the expense. Let's review the cost:

Tuned pipe - $55
New Piston and sleeve - $100+
Water cooled head - $75
Fuel (50%) - $37/gal
New Carb to up the intake flow - $50+

Clean the boat up, change that broken throttle servo arm (looks like it's cracked in the picture) so it doesn't fail completely and leave you with no throttle control, check everything in the radio system and go have fun. We have Cracker Boxes in New England and they are not fire breathers. Enjoyable to watch, touchy in the corners and not fast. I don't think they can take the speed.

John
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 10:19 AM
Maxx Basher/Savage Hunter
Davcruz's Avatar
Central VA
Joined Sep 2004
281 Posts
Once again thank you John. No I don't want to dump tons of cash into this project. This is something my dad and I are doing together (first real hobby experience together in 33 years). The boat does need a bunch of work though. I have some "spare" radio and servo stuff from my nitro truck projects that I intend to use for the boat, which didn't come with any radio gear at all.

I think you are right though, why not just get it running and learn about boats then hop it up and upgrade it if we want.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 07:16 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
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Hey, the picture finally showed up! What's up with the servo? That thing ought to be in a radio box. They don't last long exposed to the elements.
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Old Sep 22, 2004, 08:52 AM
Maxx Basher/Savage Hunter
Davcruz's Avatar
Central VA
Joined Sep 2004
281 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Olson
Hey, the picture finally showed up! What's up with the servo? That thing ought to be in a radio box. They don't last long exposed to the elements.
Hmmm, funny that you can just now see the picture, not sure what is up with that.

You are looking at the way we received the boat. We intend on changing all of that to a more modern setup. That is an old style Futaba servo and of course the receiver is the old style also. I already have replacements for all of that, now I just need to fix a broken rudder and put some trim tabs and turn fins on. Of course I need to try and get that motor running also.
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Old Sep 22, 2004, 02:40 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,902 Posts
It's probably this antiquated computer. I gotta quit putting money into boats and get a new one!
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 07:57 AM
Registered User
Philly Boy living in Apex, NC
Joined Aug 2008
24 Posts
Hi Gang, I hope I dont make you guys repeat information. But I am looking for advice to get this dried varnish looking substance off the outside of my O.S. engine. One of the other guys at my flying field told me it is castor oil residue. I had always used pure synthetic Cool Power (green) but one time my lhs was out and only had the pink cool power with castor in it. I dont remember if it was about then that I started seeing this dried up, varnish like substance on the outside of the engine......could be.

Anyway, will antifreeze take this off the outside like someone mentioned previously?
Or is there something else I can use.

Thank you...........
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 08:03 AM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
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I've found that either carb or brake cleaner does a fast job of removing the junk plus it's a lot cheaper than having to buy a gallon of anti-freeze.
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 02:23 PM
Registered User
Philly Boy living in Apex, NC
Joined Aug 2008
24 Posts
Thanks Ron, I do believe I have some carb cleaner from the last mini bike I restored.

I'll give that a try.
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