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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:00 AM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2003
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Shogun Modifications - why?

Hi Guys,

I just got brand new Shogun in the box. Before I start turning it into something different I want to fly it first as it is. Do you guys fly it stock ? I mean no changes at all, including servo and gyro placement, stock pushrods, stock langing gear. Just like the instruction goes.

I looked into all design and except the tail drive I found it very good as it is. I have already ordered miter gears (easy an cheap mod for tail) as I know, the stock will not last long. But do I need to mess up with the other parts?

I have GWS dragonfly. First I set it up stock as it was (by the instruction) and it didn't fly at all. Now it's great heli but not much left stock (DD tail, BL main motor, cyclic mods, blades mods, frame mods). I wonder if this will be the same story with Shogun.

I'm going to use Cirus gyro, PIXIE-20P ESC, 2 Blue Bird 271 servos (cyclic) and 2 Cirrus 6.2 (tail and collective). Electron 6 and TP 2100 for power.


RysiuM
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:11 AM
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I flew mine stock for the first month before beginning to slowly upgrade. This chopper is a great "sport flyer" right out of the box. If you want to get into more advanced flying you will need to upgrade. I did mine little by little and now it is fully 3d. I love this bird!!!!!
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:21 AM
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My shogun has approximately 4 flights on and am flying it stock. The tail gears seem to be holding up!! I spent some time to ensure proper mesh of the gears.

The only upgrade is a Himaxx brushless motor.

I have only be hovering and slow forward flight. This chopper flies like my larger gas machines.

On recommendation I would make is to install some small screws on the bottom side of the swashplate to retain the bearings. on the third flight I noticed the main bearing moved down slightly.
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:28 AM
"It's a Quad" :O
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I’ve been flying mine stock except:

I put the yaw servo on the tail.
Installed a brushless
Added a battery extension for correct balancing.
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:36 AM
Why not Delta?
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Thanks, I guess I 'm in the good shape now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by planeflier
I have only be hovering and slow forward flight. This chopper flies like my larger gas machines.
I didn't mention that I'm new to helicopters. I'm flying planes for a couple of years now (including 3D) but got hooked up by helis too. I flew only my GWS Dragonfly like you said: hover and slow forward and back (I have total maybe 2-3 hours with stick in my hands). I still keep the tail pointed at me, as I'm still confused if it starts to rotate.

How does it compare (I mean how difficult it is) to Drgonfly? If I can save fly GWS (without training gears) will I be able to handle Shogun?

RysiuM
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:42 AM
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If you have been hovering a Dragonfly, and your Shogun is setup correct, the Shogun should be easier for you to fly.
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:45 AM
"It's a Quad" :O
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy Ackerman
If you have been hovering a Dragonfly, and your Shogun is setup correct, the Shogun should be easier for you to fly.
Much much much easier. I can even take my hand off the stick for 5 seconds or more! It's such a well-behaved bird!
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 10:52 AM
Why not Delta?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewz
Much much much easier.
Cool
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
I flew only my GWS Dragonfly like you said: hover and slow forward and back (I have total maybe 2-3 hours with stick in my hands). I still keep the tail pointed at me, as I'm still confused if it starts to rotate.

How does it compare (I mean how difficult it is) to Drgonfly? If I can save fly GWS (without training gears) will I be able to handle Shogun?

RysiuM
I'm sure you will be able to hover the Shogun tail in as well. However, the utility of DragonFly is not exhausted. You shoud use IT to learn the other orientations until you are very comfortable and can recover from "unusual attitudes". No point in trashing your Shogun at this point in the learning curve. When you hear the CP head spin up to full speed the first time, you'll know what I mean : )

Otherwise, screws in the swash and CA on the tail pitch slider pin are musts. Tail gears are holding up OK for me with careful setup of mesh and good landing surface (Coroplast heli pad).
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 08:42 PM
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I would be worried about the Pixie 20P. I asked the question about 4 servos, 3c lipoly and a gyro to Castle Creations, and they told me that it was a bit much for the 20P. I decided to not chance damage to the ESC and other components and went Phoenix 25 and Himax brushless from the get-go. First run with the new heli - caught a loose paper towel in the tail and hello Ultem gears and aluminum tail shaft.
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 08:51 PM
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OmegaDot,

What do you mean by screws in the swash?
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 11:13 PM
"It's a Quad" :O
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJKinney
OmegaDot,

What do you mean by screws in the swash?
If you look at the bottom of the swash on the zoom/shogun. You will see 4 small holes. If you put screws in these holes it will keep the swash from separating from the bearing race…as long as the screw head or washer make contact with the race. Do not use too large a screw head or washer or you will interfere with the rotation of the assembly.
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 11:36 PM
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As thewz says, there are 4 holes in each of the inner and outer plastic swash halves. I only put two screws in each piece. 2mm diameter x 6mm long. I got the scews from an old CR-Rom drive (held some of the plastic parts together).
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Old Sep 17, 2004, 11:45 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJKinney
I would be worried about the Pixie 20P.
These are tiny micro servos. They take nothing (same as gyro). I wouldn't worry about it. It may be hard on airplane, when servo keeps the surface deflected fighting the wind but in Heli cyclic servos are not loaded at all (as the main rotor's pich is changed by the paddles path). In heli it works as a kind of pneumatic power. The only hard job will be for collective and tail rotor servos. So count it as 2 servos. 20P can live with that (I hope). If not, than I will have a motivation to go brushless.

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Old Sep 18, 2004, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
These are tiny micro servos. They take nothing (same as gyro). I wouldn't worry about it. It may be hard on airplane, when servo keeps the surface deflected fighting the wind but in Heli cyclic servos are not loaded at all (as the main rotor's pich is changed by the paddles path). In heli it works as a kind of pneumatic power. The only hard job will be for collective and tail rotor servos. So count it as 2 servos. 20P can live with that (I hope). If not, than I will have a motivation to go brushless.

RysiuM

I would have to disagree with saying the cyclic servos are not loaded. They feel almost as much force as the collective. They all perform the same function, changing the pitch of the paddles with a change in the blade pitch. Cyclic is just directing the force in a given direction, not just all positive or negitive.
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 03:07 AM
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heli servos are taking a lot more load and on FULLTIME than 3d planes servos
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmegaDot
As thewz says, there are 4 holes in each of the inner and outer plastic swash halves. I only put two screws in each piece. 2mm diameter x 6mm long. I got the scews from an old CR-Rom drive (held some of the plastic parts together).
So the swash assembly is just pressed together, eh? I see the holes to do this. If they made provisions for this, why didn't they just do it from the factory? Has anyone had this come apart?
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 09:44 AM
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My swashplate bearing started to slide out the bottm. Put (8) 2mm x 6mm screws and fixed the problem. I don't know why they don't put them in at the factory.
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 06:18 PM
Why not Delta?
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First mandatory modification.

This mod can be avoided if you move the tail rotor servo into different position. I wanted to keep the servo as it is.

Instruction shows that the tail pushrod is bend in big Z-shape in order to connect it with servo horn because servo horn sticks out of the frame about 1/2 inch, while the pushrod sleve lays (secured by the screw) on the frame (see the first picture). This is lousy, sloppy solution.
Using the same screw I added pushrod sleve's support and zip tied the sleve to it. See pictures below.

RysiuM
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 07:20 PM
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I love how people come up with all different ideas for the same solutions. Good stuff rysium, I esp like your detailed pics. Keep them coming.
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 07:21 PM
azfai
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Hi Richard.

I tried the bevel gears for a while and found the weak link then became the power take off gear at the front of the TR Drive Shaft. I shed the teeth on this one when I went to the 400DH brushless motor on mine. I am still waiting for the gears from Stock Drive Products for that particular gear system. I put a belt drive on it and the TR problems went away. Got the Parts from Stock Drive Products for around $10.00USD.

On the stock motor, the gears held up fine. problems began when I started loading the stock gears with the BL.

Jim


Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
Hi Guys,

I just got brand new Shogun in the box. Before I start turning it into something different I want to fly it first as it is. Do you guys fly it stock ? I mean no changes at all, including servo and gyro placement, stock pushrods, stock langing gear. Just like the instruction goes.

I looked into all design and except the tail drive I found it very good as it is. I have already ordered miter gears (easy an cheap mod for tail) as I know, the stock will not last long. But do I need to mess up with the other parts?

I have GWS dragonfly. First I set it up stock as it was (by the instruction) and it didn't fly at all. Now it's great heli but not much left stock (DD tail, BL main motor, cyclic mods, blades mods, frame mods). I wonder if this will be the same story with Shogun.

I'm going to use Cirus gyro, PIXIE-20P ESC, 2 Blue Bird 271 servos (cyclic) and 2 Cirrus 6.2 (tail and collective). Electron 6 and TP 2100 for power.


RysiuM
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 08:57 PM
Why not Delta?
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Modification number 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieNewYork
I love how people come up with all different ideas for the same solutions. Good stuff rysium, I esp like your detailed pics. Keep them coming.
OK then. I had to do another one. I use Cirrus 6.2 for collecive. This servo is very high on the supports but still not high enough to reach to the pushrod end (Z-bend) - Does Hitec 56 fit?

So I just decided to make a new pushrod without Z-bed (I use E-Z link anyway). You like my pictures? So here they are. On the first picture you can see original and new pushrod. New one is mounted. It fits like it should.

Btw. Pushrod is music wire 1.20 mm (I measured it).

RysiuM
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 10:02 PM
azfai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
OK then. I had to do another one. I use Cirrus 6.2 for collecive. This servo is very high on the supports but still not high enough to reach to the pushrod end (Z-bend) - Does Hitec 56 fit?

So I just decided to make a new pushrod without Z-bed (I use E-Z link anyway). You like my pictures? So here they are. On the first picture you can see original and new pushrod. New one is mounted. It fits like it should.

Btw. Pushrod is music wire 1.20 mm (I measured it).

RysiuM
I just used a couple of pieces of Fiberglass under the servo ears to move it away from the frame and the rod would be a straight shot to the servo. Seemed easier than bending more wire.

Jim
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 10:10 PM
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I just took the collective arm off and fliped it over to make it a straight shot with the servo.
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Old Sep 18, 2004, 11:23 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planeflier
I just took the collective arm off...
Quote:
Originally Posted by azfai
I just used a couple of pieces of Fiberglass under the servo ears
What I'm trying to do here is make Shogun flyable with minimum changes from the manual's instructions. I hope it will end up with just a list of misses Shogun has.
You guys the same as me were not able to mount collective servo as manual shows. Whichever solution you took, it still the same conclusion: They didn't do the job right.
The same thing with the TR servo. I didn't know why everybody is moving servo to the tail boom till I tried to do what manual shows. Now I understand - it just doesn't work.

Such small things still deducts the points from "90% factory assembled"


RysiuM
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Old Sep 19, 2004, 06:09 AM
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thats why it is soo cheap compared to others
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Old Sep 19, 2004, 11:38 AM
Why not Delta?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpops
thats why it is soo cheap compared to others
Cheap doesn't always mean bad. In example Shock Flyer is darn cheap, but the same quality as 100 dollars planes.

I like Shogun very much. Don't get me wrong. It is very good quality. I believe it can fly with the basic setup (with small fixes) unlike GWS Dragonfly that just didn't. These tiny things don't change the cost at all. With all these small fixes it would cost the same, but may be just better.

Stay tuned, I'm not done yet

RysiuM
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Old Sep 19, 2004, 03:52 PM
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With the HS-56HB servo, I simply bent a new collective link from music wire with the Z-bends on opposite sides. This took care of the offset and also took care of the slight length mismatch so that the servo arm and collective lever were parallel at zero pitch.

I use a Cirrus CS-10BB as the TR servo. That is narrow enough that it fits fine in the stock location.
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Old Sep 19, 2004, 08:47 PM
t3k
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Wasnt this protechs first helicopter? If thats the case then you have to assume that the first run will have problems as all of you describe. Even the auto industry that spends millions on one vehicles R&D winds up making changes after the first year in production...

Heh, take a look at the Commanche Project... how many billion over budget and they decided to scrap the whole project!
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 12:44 AM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t3k
Wasnt this protechs first helicopter? If thats the case then you have to assume that the first run will have problems as all of you describe.
Guys, dont' get me wrong. This is very nice machine. Even more - These tow changes I described above were just two changes I had to make before I fly it. Yes, I have finished mu Shogun today and after brief radio setup (by the rule: Looks About Right) I flew it in my backyard.
This is true - Landing gear sucks. I'm quite good with landing my Dragonfly without training gear, but I had to put the training gear on my Shogun. Without it it's like a landing on a pinhead.

With Thunder Power 2100 in the nose (this battery pack fits very well in the provided compartment) heli balances very well. And the power is awesome, even with the stock 400 motor. I wouldn't say it's more stable than Dragonfly, but it is much more responsive.

Now the only thing is left. I know my radio setup sucks. I used to program my Futaba 8U Super in Aircraft mode and I feel very comfortable with it (my GWS Draonfly flies on Aircraft mode), but when I switched to HELISWH1 my radio showed me the menus I've never seen before. It's quite new world for me.
Please anyone with Futaba 8U show me the good example how you have setup the Shogun in there. Tread me like a complete moron in the heli area.


Here are the pictures of Shogun ready to fly and in the air.

RysiuM
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 01:27 AM
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Ah, nice to see another thumb and forefinger man.

Nice job Rysium. Please do report what kind of duration you get with the 2100. I am in the market for more batteries.

Luis~
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 02:11 AM
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Wow, that was fast.
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 08:19 AM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dulcelife
Please do report what kind of duration you get with the 2100.
I'm affraid, that the battery will last longer than the motor - this 400 is working hard at 11V and gets quite hot

Yesterday we had a bad weather in Sacramento area (including high wind, thunders and hail) so I didn't fly long because of terrible wind turbulences on my backyard. And as I'm not sure if I setup the radio right my heart was in my throat

RysiuM
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 10:05 AM
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Nice pics... I love my Shogun but like many others I flew mine stock for a bit then have upgraded many parts. It flew very well out of the box. Most of the changes I have made were not only to make it fly better but more importantly to make it more efficient. I'm using a Himaxx 2025-3200 with a 9t pinion, CC25 and an Apogee 1570mah 3s1p battery pack. I get about 17-19 minutes flight time with this setup. I'm still using the stock gears and stock landing gear as I see no problems with them. I have about 6-8 hours flight time on mine with only one minor crash. I'm using 4-HS56 servos and they work great in the machine. No mods needed for the collective when using the HS56.

Some things I would recommend updating are:
  • A brushless motor for more power and more efficiency. Remember though, brushless motors run more efficient at 85-100% throttle so if you are not into 3D stick with a motor around 3000-3400kv.
  • Boom mounted tail servo, reduced linkage length and slop.
  • Battery extender tray which help the CG if you move the tail servo to the boom.
  • Lighter paddle holders if into loops, rolls, etc.
  • Aluminum tail shaft as the stock one is the cause of many stripped gears.
  • A really good gyro such as the Futaba GY240 or GY401.

Now I have many more updates than those but those are the ones that will greatly increase the flying abilities and efficiency of the helicopter. I got most of my upgrades from http://www.sparrowproducts.com.
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 11:54 AM
azfai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
What I'm trying to do here is make Shogun flyable with minimum changes from the manual's instructions. I hope it will end up with just a list of misses Shogun has.
You guys the same as me were not able to mount collective servo as manual shows. Whichever solution you took, it still the same conclusion: They didn't do the job right.
The same thing with the TR servo. I didn't know why everybody is moving servo to the tail boom till I tried to do what manual shows. Now I understand - it just doesn't work.

Such small things still deducts the points from "90% factory assembled"


RysiuM
I left the TR servo in the stock spot after opening up the frames a bit so it would not rub on the maingear. Using the stock pushrod with NO BENDS and it is working fine.

I also have not had any problems landing or operating with the stock landing gear.

I can honestly say that it is a very nice helicopter for the money. One thing Richard, If you even tap the main blades on the ground or on something, You will bend the aluminum mainshaft and the Blade axle. get yourself the steel main shaft( a couple of them) and a couple of the blade axles. With the 400DH motor from JustGoFly.com it came alive and flies very fast and solid. Trying to build a 20mm triple or double that will turn in the neighborhood of 25000 RPM unloaded to see if it will fly better than the 400DH. The cogging on the 400DH is very strong and may make the motor run just rough enough to overload the tailrotor input gears.

Jim
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 12:09 PM
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I too left the T/R servo in the stock location, I just opted to use a servo that fits in the location without modification. The GWS pico/BB was a perfect fit. I did replace the wire with cf rod without testing so I do not know if the wire itself caused any of the slop. What I did find caused slop was the stock pitch slider lever or bell crack with it's over-sized hole for the slider pin. Also the actual blades holders were too loose on the tail rotor.

I documented my changes here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273759

Luis~
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 12:37 PM
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Luis, I've posted a question to you about one of your mods, back on the original thread.

Randy
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 02:28 PM
Why not Delta?
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Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfai
I left the TR servo in the stock spot after opening up the frames a bit so it would not rub on the maingear. Using the stock pushrod with NO BENDS and it is working fine.
Can you show the picture? I didn't find any servo that would work. I mean the pushrod lays on the same surface that you screw the servo to. It is at slight angle as the TR pushrod is bent where it's zip-tied to the boom but still not much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by azfai
I also have not had any problems landing or operating with the stock landing gear.
As I'm using training gear I'm not worry much for now. After I feel comfortable with this heli ready for taking it off, I was thinking of putting Augusta A-109 body with retracts. Should look cool and solve the problem with narrow LG.


Quote:
Originally Posted by azfai
get yourself the steel main shaft( a couple of them) and a couple of the blade axles.
That's what I'm gona do today

RysiuM
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 03:05 PM
azfai
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Sure. here you go. I also have zero slop in the linkage. I glued a piece of .020 Fiberglass on top of the TR Bellcrank and drilled a 2mm hole for the pin. No slop and the TR is very responsive.

Jim


Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
Can you show the picture? I didn't find any servo that would work. I mean the pushrod lays on the same surface that you screw the servo to. It is at slight angle as the TR pushrod is bent where it's zip-tied to the boom but still not much.



As I'm using training gear I'm not worry much for now. After I feel comfortable with this heli ready for taking it off, I was thinking of putting Augusta A-109 body with retracts. Should look cool and solve the problem with narrow LG.




That's what I'm gona do today

RysiuM
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 12:15 AM
Why not Delta?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfai
I left the TR servo in the stock spot after opening up the frames a bit so it would not rub on the maingear. Using the stock pushrod with NO BENDS and it is working fine.
OK, no bends, but you didn't follow the instruction You did mount the pushrod exactly like I did, just you didn't make support for the selve (my first mod)

As the instruction shows on the picture the sleve shoud lay on the frame secured by single screw. In your Shogun the end of the sleve is hanging in the air. So as I see ithis is mandatory mod for Shogun anyway, as the base solution can't work.

RysiuM
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 01:00 AM
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I didn't post pictures of my Shogun made by instructions with just two tiny mods. I have placed all the gear in the provided places. I tried to balance it with 3s1p Kokam 1500 (104g) but it was tail heavy. I had to use 3s1p Thunder Power 2100 (142g) to balance the heli properly. Notice, I don't have any extra stuff on the tail.

So there are the pictures:

1. Frontal view. For cyclic I used Blue Bird servos 371. I had to make the servo hole 1 mm longer to fit these servos (they are a little bigger than recommended HS56). I had Hitec Electron 6 laying around so I used it. Now I can use channel 5 for retracts (in the future ).
You may notice sticky tape over the crystal. I always do that for all my receivers. And I never lost a crystal in the flight (like my friend did on his Slow Stick )

2. On the right side I put Cirrus Gyro and Blue Bird 371 for collective. I had Cirrus here, but I notice a bad pot around the center, so I scrapped it. Again I had to make a hole a bit longer to accomodate bigger servo. You can see Pixie 20 ESC under the belly. Good spot to keep it cool. On this picture you can see that battery is quite long as half of it is sticking out of the battery compartment.

3. Not much on the left side. Cirrus 6.2 for TR with modified pushrod support. I have coiled antena on the plastic tube taped to the landing gear legs. I'm not gonna fly it to far, so I should have enough radio range. I put a new connector for the motor (to match my ESC) so I can play collective and TR without motor running. I wrapped the battery in the foam to keep the battery inside the compartment otherwise it would be too loose.

4. Tail rotor unlike all other pictures I saw on the Internet has a plastic pinion. Good or bad, I don't know. But after a couple minutes of running I saw some marks on the gears. Then I grabbed a silicon lubricant that came with the excersise machine (you know the one you walk for hours and still be in the same place). It seems to work very well, as I didn't notice any further marks. Even after my son's mishap (broken baldes, bend shafy and broken landing gear tube) it didn't strip.


The heli ready to fly with the battery and the training landing gear weights 570 grams (20 oz). But if I set 7 degree pich it hovers at 1/3 throttle.

Now I'm asking for help again. Anyone with Futaba 8U Super - how to setup my Shogun in there. I mean exact options and values: What, Where, How and Values (I can change them a little if the heli is out of trim).

RysiuM
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 02:01 AM
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dulcelife's Avatar
Tampa, Florida, United States
Joined Aug 2003
2,330 Posts
Rysium,
That blue gear is suppose to be an improvement over the brass version.
I just bought a couple of those TP 2100 from Bishop. Got in on the free shipping just in time as it ended today. I hope to get at least 20 minutes on that battery with the Himaxx 3200. I am glad to see they fit so nicely.

Luis~
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 11:53 AM
azfai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
OK, no bends, but you didn't follow the instruction You did mount the pushrod exactly like I did, just you didn't make support for the selve (my first mod)

As the instruction shows on the picture the sleve shoud lay on the frame secured by single screw. In your Shogun the end of the sleve is hanging in the air. So as I see ithis is mandatory mod for Shogun anyway, as the base solution can't work.

RysiuM
I found that the TR rod is flexible enough to leave it anchored at the rear near the TR but that there is no friction or very little friction if the opposite end is left free. The wire is stiff enough so that there is no flex and none is introduced with a bend. The old rule of making the pushrods as straight as possible applies here very well.

Jim
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Slidell, LA, USA
Joined Nov 2002
714 Posts
Hey guys, what is a better servo to use for the tail rotor on a Shogun with a Futaba GY240: a Hitec HS-56 or a Hitec HS-50?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 12:05 PM
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United States, FL, Apopka
Joined Mar 2002
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The HS50 is faster but the HS56 has much less slop. I use the HS56 and it works great.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 04:19 PM
Registered User
Slidell, LA, USA
Joined Nov 2002
714 Posts
But will the HS-56, with the GY-240, hold the tail well enough for aggressive 3D flight? (assuming you mod the tail and get all of the slop out of the control linkage)

Thanks.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 06:33 PM
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In Heli Wonderland
Joined Aug 1999
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Although the 56 is a nice servo, it is about 50% slower than the 50.

I would say no then, go for the 50 or another comp servo.
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Old Sep 21, 2004, 08:01 PM
Registered User
Slidell, LA, USA
Joined Nov 2002
714 Posts
OK, what is a comparable servo in speed (or faster) to a HS-50, but that does not require mods to fix the slop?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 22, 2004, 06:49 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dulcelife
Rysium,
That blue gear is suppose to be an improvement over the brass version.
Here are the pictures of the tail gear after 60 mintes in the air. I mean very gentle flying - hovering at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle (I can't do anytyng else yet ). I land on the grass from time to time, so my tail rotor blades are green at tips.
On the pictures you can see that TR gears are still in very good shape. The pinion got a little used but most of marks is just dirt - I used silicon oil to lube it. I'm watching it carefully and we will see how long it will last. My TR gear mod is on backorder

Quote:
Originally Posted by dulcelife
I just bought a couple of those TP 2100 from Bishop...I hope to get at least 20 minutes on that battery with the Himaxx 3200.
I had 15 minytes of flying (flyig style described above ) and battery voltage got down to 11.1V. I'm charging it now, so in an hour I will know how much I did use it. Battery was slightly worm (like usuall on all my planes) but the motor extremly hot. But runs smooth (no sparks) and I read somewhere that it just is like that. So I don't worry for now.


RysiuM
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Old Sep 22, 2004, 06:52 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2003
1,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by thewz
If you look at the bottom of the swash on the zoom/shogun. You will see 4 small holes. If you put screws in these holes it will keep the swash from separating from the bearing race…as long as the screw head or washer make contact with the race. Do not use too large a screw head or washer or you will interfere with the rotation of the assembly.
Can someone post pictures? I see many holes there (or O'm not looking at the right part )

RysiuM
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