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Old Oct 10, 2004, 08:45 AM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Thank Boomer

Boomer, I appreciate your help and quick replies. I would have thanked you earlier, but I had to leave for the evening.

Early next week I hope to begin building. I'll try to take digital pictures of each step, from layed out pieces to the finished and slightly modified Slow Stick.

Thanks!
Tony
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Old Oct 14, 2004, 04:43 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Three Questions

I have been building my SS, but have a couple of questions. I'm sure Boomer knows right off the top of his head, but...

1. I have a GWS ICS 400S (Speed Controller). It comes with a heat-sink. Of course the controller is wrapped with clear plastic so I'm not sure how to use the heat-sink or whether or not it is even necessary in this setup. What's your thoughts?

2. I have a 400C/F with a +/- line without connectors. Same is true with the receiver for connecting to the motor. Do you recommend I use Ultra-Deans connectors or should I purchase some simple push-pin connectors similar to the ones that are on the servos that connect to the receiver or do you have a better solution?

3. Last question for now I hope - The prop that even came with my SS doesn't fit the shaft of the 400. I did purchase six extra 1260's and they too don't fit the shaft. I can see they'll fit the 300, but not the 400. Should I just drill out the props to 4mm?

Thanks!
Tony
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Old Oct 14, 2004, 05:01 PM
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Sayre,PA
Joined Sep 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMF
1. I have a GWS ICS 400S (Speed Controller). It comes with a heat-sink. Of course the controller is wrapped with clear plastic so I'm not sure how to use the heat-sink or whether or not it is even necessary in this setup. What's your thoughts?

Tony
The ESC should have come with an extra piece of heat shrink. You cut the heat shrink off the ESC and then use the extra piece to hold the heat sink to the ESC. After shrinking you can cut out some of the heat shrink to give better exposure of the cooling fins. I figured I may as well use the heat sink since it only added very little weight.
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Old Oct 14, 2004, 05:02 PM
Been There! Done That!
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
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1. I have a GWS ICS 400S (Speed Controller). It comes with a heat-sink. Of course the controller is wrapped with clear plastic so I'm not sure how to use the heat-sink or whether or not it is even necessary in this setup. What's your thoughts?
A:You should have received a extra clear heat shrink piece so you may cut off the existing heat shrink, attach the heat sink by peeling the paper off the sticky side first and then putting the new heat srink on the assembly and shrinking it with a heat gun or hair drier. Then cut away the part of the heat sink leaving the 2 end fins to hold the heat sink in position which will expose the center fins for better cooling.

2. I have a 400C/F with a +/- line without connectors. Same is true with the receiver for connecting to the motor. Do you recommend I use Ultra-Deans connectors or should I purchase some simple push-pin connectors similar to the ones that are on the servos that connect to the receiver or do you have a better solution?
A: Use a Deans on the battery end. Plus goes to the wider crosswise terminal. The side connecting to the motor you can either solder the wires direct (I remove the wimpy Motor wires on the motor first) Or use bullet gold plated connectors or Deans will also work. Normally the female end goes on the Speed control in the motor to speed control connection. Again the crosswise wider part of the Deans is always + or Red wire. Follow instructions that came with your speed control.

3. Last question for now I hope - The prop that even came with my SS doesn't fit the shaft of the 400. I did purchase six extra 1260's and they too don't fit the shaft. I can see they'll fit the 300, but not the 400. Should I just drill out the props to 4mm?
A: Yes drill them out!
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Oct 14, 2004, 05:18 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Thanks guys!

I really appreciate everyone. This has been a tremendous resource. I've already messed up one build attempt by trying to follow the instructions. I think I might be dyslectic because I built everything reverse. hahahaha
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 04:06 AM
semper ventosus
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Sasebo, Japan
Joined Jun 2004
991 Posts
Does anyone have a picture of how they mount their battery? I have etec 1200mah lipo's and I have been using one of those velcro straps, but still I am a little scared that one of these days I'll have a rough landing and the battery could fly out. Just wondering what the safest way to mount lipos on the stick could be. Thanks.
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Last edited by weather_man; Oct 15, 2004 at 04:09 AM.
Old Oct 15, 2004, 04:21 AM
"Fly It Like Ya Stole It"
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San Bernardino, Ca
Joined Jul 2004
768 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by weather_man
Does anyone have a picture of how they mount their battery? I have etec 1200mah lipo's and I have been using one of those velcro straps, but still I am a little scared that one of these days I'll have a rough landing and the battery could fly out. Just wondering what the safest way to mount lipos on the stick could be. Thanks.
I use velcro with the stiff side stuck to the fuse and the soft side on the battery, then use a velcro strap wraped around the fuse and battery as a safety strap. Battery never moves.
(I use the soft side of the velcro on the battery so everything doesnt stick to it when its in my flight box)
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 07:46 AM
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USA, VT, Brandon
Joined Aug 2004
1,342 Posts
Prop for Kan 1050's

Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
Perfect! Use a 12 X 6 Prop!
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
Is that an APC slow fly prop? I don't remember seeing a GWS 1260...maybe 'cause I never looked!

Steve
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 11:19 AM
Been There! Done That!
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerhill
Is that an APC slow fly prop? I don't remember seeing a GWS 1260...maybe 'cause I never looked!

Steve
GWS 12 X 6
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 05:15 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
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Yesterday I used 5 minute epoxy and hardener to join the two wing haves together instead of tape. I used some strips of wood and small clamps to hold the two pieces together over night. Today I took the clamps off and things looked fine. I left the wing sitting on a table and after an hour I came back and the glue joint separated. Should I have used a different type of clue?

Thanks,
Tony
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Oops
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Last edited by Ron H; Oct 15, 2004 at 10:13 PM.
Old Oct 15, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
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If the glue wasn't set, it could only mean an improper mixture or inadequate mixing. 50/50 is standard mix. Less hardener means slower set time, but it will set within 24 hours even using a very small amount if mixed thoroughly. Cold temperatures may slow it also.
If this is what happened, you have two choices; Tape it and fly it or remove the old glue with lots of paper towels and isopropyl alcohol. Not an easy task. Even harder if the epoxy has begun to gel. If it has, tape it up and wait or you will just make a mess. The alcohol won't remove epoxy that has set up, only that which is unmixed or fresh.

If you mean the glue didn't bond to the foam, this is much simpler. Just clean the foam with isopropyl alcohlol and let dry before bonding. This should also be done on the rudder and elevator before taping the hinges.
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Old Oct 16, 2004, 01:15 AM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Hi Ron,

Yes I used 50/50 mix and it was clamped together for 24 hours. The problem was not the hardening, the problem is that it just didn't stick. What I did was apply a thin layer of mixed epoxy to both sides of the wings. Pressed them together with clothes pins and waited 24 hours. When I first took off the clothes pins (with lath backing), everything seemed fined. But after an hour of resting, the two wings separated. The epoxy is hard as a rock and stuck to both sides of the foam wings, but the epoxy didn't stick to itself. Get what I mean? Maybe clamping caused this to fail?

All these foam parts have been painted by the manufacture. Are you saying that I should have used alcohol on all these parts first (possibly trying to remove paint)? But yet the epoxy appears to have held to the foam, but not itself. Both glue joints of the wings are shinny with hard epoxy.

Not much has gone right with this build from the start so I'm going to ask another question to be on the safe side. I have fabricated the 3 degree thrust insert. But before I glue this in the fuselage, I want to make sure I understand the instructions. As stated this should be 3 degrees down and 3 degrees right. My quesiton is, when you say 3 degrees right, is this looking at the plane from the front (prop) or from the rear?

And what glue should I use for this thrust mod insert (made of hardwood) and should I also clean the inside of the fuselage with alcohol before gluing (most likely I will anyway)?

I've been working on this few hour build all week, taking my time and trying to be very careful. Of course I have never built anything like this before and have never flown an RC anything so most of the time I'm confused. I was hoping to test fly tomorrow (with an instructor), but it looks like it's going to be Sunday at the earliest.

Thanks,
Tony
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Old Oct 16, 2004, 05:19 AM
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Cracow, Poland
Joined Nov 2003
651 Posts
Hello,

As I've wrote, I plan to buy Slow Stick.

What sticky tape is the best to replace GWS's?
I've heard, that 3M products are rather good.
I've also have 3M dealer near my school.
Which tapes you use in SS?

Szymon
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Old Oct 16, 2004, 05:53 AM
WAA pilot #21
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Princeton NJ
Joined Dec 2003
3,166 Posts
AMF, ive never heard of epoxy (when fresh enough) not bonding to itself. If the joint separated cleanly, just try adding some fresh epoxy to the joint and resetting it. Once cured, apply two or three strips of clear 2" packing tape - front to back - over the top, and the fiberglass & aluminum wing joiners.

For the motor mount a strongly urge you NOT to glue it - use a tiny screw like the ones used to hold the tail on. One through the fuselage and one through the gearbox. WHEN, not 'if', you crash, the mount may break. If its glued in, your going to have a heck of a time getting it removed.

Symon, 3M 2" (51mm) wide clear packing tape is good.
The stuff with fiber reinforcing strips is even stronger, but its ugly and unnecessary in my opinion.

IF you havent already, i put all the tips & tricks in the Slowstick Guide:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273180
If youd like the original .doc version with pictures, PM or email me at vanning AT comcast DOT net
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