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Old Oct 07, 2004, 07:42 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
That makes perfect sense Ron and Boomer. These instructions are confusing and I have to be careful. Now that I go back and read again, they have "FIXED TAIL INSTALLION" and "DISASSEMBLED TAIL INSTALLATION". But as dumb as I am, I didn't realize these were two different "options" for the same process. Even the pictures are different so it looks like a different process. And now that Boomer mentioned this, I now remember reading something in this thread about this stupid two piece tail idea. There's only so much information my brain can hold and this thread is huge.

I'll do just as you said Boomer. I'll cut a few inches of hardwood to go from the front to the wing. Makes perfect sense.

If it wasn't for this site I would be lost. Thanks for all your help!
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 08:12 PM
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Well guys, i sort of got the ss to fly today. I put on a9.4v 8 cell 1050mah bat. It seemed like it had a lot more thrust. I found a place i could ROG and flew it around for awhile untill the wind picked up a bit and landed it in a tree. Man does this thing fly slow comparered to my t-hawk. It seemed sesitive to pitch. What can i do to tame that down for my son to learn on? When i got it out of the tree the battery was cool but the motor seemed hot to the touch. What can i do to help that? Seemes like a stond plane that is easy to fix and will be a good trainer for son i think. BTW, when i put the 7 cell 950 8.2 volt it would hardly ROG and would barally climb at all. I have 4 of those batts and would to use them. What would be a good prop for that como? I am going to do the 3 degree mod on the motor mount to see if that helps any before i fly again too.

thanks for the help
medic 24
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 08:30 PM
Been There! Done That!
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMF
That makes perfect sense Ron and Boomer. These instructions are confusing and I have to be careful. Now that I go back and read again, they have "FIXED TAIL INSTALLION" and "DISASSEMBLED TAIL INSTALLATION". But as dumb as I am, I didn't realize these were two different "options" for the same process. Even the pictures are different so it looks like a different process. And now that Boomer mentioned this, I now remember reading something in this thread about this stupid two piece tail idea. There's only so much information my brain can hold and this thread is huge.

I'll do just as you said Boomer. I'll cut a few inches of hardwood to go from the front to the wing. Makes perfect sense.

If it wasn't for this site I would be lost. Thanks for all your help!
You do know the hardwood goes INSIDE the fuse???? Right? Actually any wood will do as long as it's not balsa!
boomer
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 08:44 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Yep I realize the wood goes in the fuse. In fact tomorrow I will begin building. I'm going to document everything with a photo. I'm also going to remember to make a template of the tail just in case I want to use balsa for that later (your idea I believe Boomer). I'll keep you posted on the progress and of course if I have any questions or run into problems I know exactly where to go.

Thanks a million!
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 08:46 PM
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Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
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If you are certain you have the 350, 8 cells is too much using an 1170. That's likely why the motor was hot. The 7 cell packs are ideal for this setup.
Remember the name SLOW Stick. It will not respond instantly to Rx input with the stock motor.
If it seems too sensitive, scoot the pack forward some. It is better to start nose heavy and work your way back. This may solve the pitch problem and make it more tame. Climb rate will also increase once you gain speed.
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 10:36 AM
Crashing....and loving it
Chuck H's Avatar
Joined Sep 2004
9 Posts
I've been wanting to get into RC for a while. I started with a Telemaster 40 slimer, flew it once by myself (crashed it), rebuilt it, then got some help from an instructor and did a few ovals. It was difficult getting an instructor to help me at the club field so I just gave up.

I've been reading this forum for about a month now and have read the entire SS thread series. I decided on getting one and teaching myself at the local park, which is huge (12 soccer fields 3x4?) I got a good deal on a built used one with a lot of extra parts (motor/gearbox, 4 batteries new wing, props, prop shafts, etc.) It wasn't built the way I would have but I figured I'd be rebuilding it soon anyway.

Well, I finally got some free time and calm weather so I headed off to the park last night with some supporters (my six-year old and three of his friends.) Set it up, did the range checks everything OK. Equipment is 350, D Gear, 11x8 prop, GWS 600 MA 7.2 volt, GWS radio/servos/receiver/ESC. I had read in one of the threads that the plane needed some down elevator trim so I gave it about 1/8". I have no down or right thrust. I also blocked up under the rear wing mount with a 1/8" balsa stick.

Flight 1: Short grass, heading away from me, everyone behind me. Plane starts off, the tail lifts pretty quick, but it looks like it is going to nose over. Gave a little up elevator and it lifted off in about 8 feet. Plane wants to go down and I realize that the down elevator trim is too much. So now I'm fighting to keep it up and straight (also going to the right a bit) and thinking about adding up trim. Flew about 50 feet and went in soft. Broke the servo-arm prop saver but not the prop. Luckily I had another one and put it on for a second try. Added all the trim that I had left on the Tx to try to bring the stab to zero. Hmmmm....not quite but I' figured I'd try it anyway.

Flight 2: Same setup as before. Again plane is hard to get off the ground and once airborne I am still fighting the down tendency. I guess I should've moved the wire in the servo arm to get the stab to zero. I had a much longer flight but was trying too hard to keep level and turn at the same time. I think that I let the plane get too far away for that reason. I managed to fly left and back to the right for about a minute or so. Then I tried to turn back towards me but I got confused on which way the plane was heading. I blame it on the distance and impending darkness (6:30PM in New Jersey.) Was swooping around and went in a bit harder, breaking the prop, vertical stab and bending the prop shaft. Also, I think that I left the motor on too long. As a newbie I am forgetting to cut power even though I am aware of that tendency.

All in all, not very successful but certainly an adrenaline rush. I hope that I can get the plane set up better for the next time out, hopefully this weekend. Sorry for the long read!
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 11:13 AM
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Norfolk, Massachussetts
Joined Jul 2003
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Doesn't sound too bad, chuck...... but as a newbie i would fly with the sun bright on the plane....even as a grizzled veteran of the slow stick, dusk still plays tricks on my eyes when it is far away..... sounds like you just need to buy a couple more prop savers and like a half-dozen props, and maybe a prop shaft or two! Usually u can straiten them out with a vise if they aren't too bad. And i know all about leaving the motor on..... im guilty . Assuming your cg is correct (4 1/8" back from Leading Edge (LE)), than i guess you'll just have to play with your trims! And believe it or not, you probably learned more about flying in those two flights than you ever will again, so your fast on your way to being a pro! Good luck!
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 12:26 PM
Crashing....and loving it
Chuck H's Avatar
Joined Sep 2004
9 Posts
Thanks for the kind words. Pretty sure that CG is correct since I've checked that a few times after reading the threads. It actually flew pretty good (when I wasn't messing with the sticks!) except for the slight downward path.

I managed to sneak off to my car on my lunch hour and accomplished the following in about 30 minutes:
Straightened prop shaft and cleaned dirt off gears
Glued vertical stab back on. Since it was snapped at the fuse stick I used toothpicks inserted into the foam.
Made tail braces out of bamboo skewers.
Changed control horns to minimum throw since I was overcontrolling even though I knew not to (extra hole on control surface and closest hole on servo.)
Should be good for at least another two flights!
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 12:37 PM
WAA pilot #21
Vanning's Avatar
Princeton NJ
Joined Dec 2003
3,166 Posts
Hey Chuck
Where in Jersey are you? im in South Brunswick.
Anyway, one thing to remember is that the servo supports can slide up & down the fuse. Thats a good thing, because it dampens the shock when you nose in - but its also bad if you forget to slide the servos back where they belong.
Start by powering up everything and remove the wing. Center both the trims on the transmitter. Look at the servo horns, they should be sticking out 90 degrees from the fuse. If not, remove the horn and reinstall so its straight out. DONT forget that screw!
Now, slide the servo supports back or forth to get the rudder and elevator flat & straight. If, say, the rudder is straight but the elevator is still out, then slide the servos a little more so that both surfaces are as close as possible to straight, then use the transmitter trims to get em perfect.
A much easier way to do this is to mount Dubro Mini-EZ connectors to the servo horns so you can adjust the length of your pushrods by simply loosening a screw.
Best of luck, mike
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 12:56 PM
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One of you SS experts help me please - is the KAN1050 7 cell NIMH in flat about the best battery for that plane? 300C EPS system
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 01:26 PM
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rutat
One of you SS experts help me please - is the KAN1050 7 cell NIMH in flat about the best battery for that plane? 300C EPS system
Perfect! Use a 12 X 6 Prop!
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 01:30 PM
WAA pilot #21
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Princeton NJ
Joined Dec 2003
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Yup. (assuming your not going lipo yet)
I liked em so much i bought seven packs.
You can save a couple dollars by ordering the CBP labeled cells (made by kan)
Get them with deans connectors and heavier guage wire too - that way they will work great for future planes too. The 1050s are capable of cranking out far more watts than the feeble JST connectors with their 22guage wire can tolerate.
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Old Oct 08, 2004, 01:32 PM
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Tnanks! I'm happy with the stuff Mike makes at CBP. BUt I think I'll skip the Deans - don't like - maybe Sermos... Those JST are pretty feeble for sure.
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Old Oct 09, 2004, 07:30 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Quick Question

Boomer, in regards to the 3 degrees down / 3 degrees right thrust modification. In this post http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=306 you say you use hardwood. So my question is, did you frabricate a piece of hardwood squared to fit in the fuselage just to where the wing is and then let the hardwood extend out of the nose and then cut your 3/3 degrees on the hardwood? And then finally attach the motor to this hardwood rather than the fuse? I've read some posts here that people were bending their fuse to achieve this (3 degrees isn't much). What do you think is the best way?

I still haven't started building (still in the box). Instead I thought I would read the thread again. I'm getting forgetful in my age and often have to read things two or three times before I remember what I read.

Thanks,
Tony
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Old Oct 09, 2004, 07:47 PM
Been There! Done That!
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Q: Boomer, in regards to the 3 degrees down / 3 degrees right thrust modification. In this post http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=306 you say you use hardwood. So my question is, did you frabricate a piece of hardwood squared to fit in the fuselage just to where the wing is and then let the hardwood extend out of the nose and then cut your 3/3 degrees on the hardwood? And then finally attach the motor to this hardwood rather than the fuse?
A: YES
Q: I've read some posts here that people were bending their fuse to achieve this (3 degrees isn't much). What do you think is the best way?
A: TOO EASY TO KINK THE FUSE AND WEAKEN IT. The other way strengthens rather than weakens!

I still haven't started building (still in the box). Instead I thought I would read the thread again. I'm getting forgetful in my age and often have to read things two or three times before I remember what I read.
AREN'T WE ALL!
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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