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Old Oct 06, 2004, 06:36 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
107 Posts
Trying to find the parts

I've been trying to find all the components on a single site so I'm not hit in the face with shipping costs. Unfortunately it's difficult to find anyone that actually carries everything you want/need. On one site I found the following (remember, I have a JR X378 7-CHANNEL AIR/HELI/SAIL CH45 radio). I just want to make sure everything is compatible since I've never done this before:

quantity) description

1) GWS 6-Channel 72 MHz FM Naro Receiver JR Version with Horizontal Connector Pins (0.28 oz)

1) GWS Micro Size UM-1 Crystal for GWS Pico, Naro, and Berg-4 Receivers Channel: 45

2) GWS Naro High Power Plus Ball Bearing Servo with JR Connector (Weight: 0.35 oz, Torque: 31.0 oz-in)

Are the three above compatible? They all have "Naro" in the description. hahahaha

2) GWS EPS-400C Gear Ratio: E (3.40:1) - now an E gearbox, but they do have (A,B,C,D,E,G,H,I)

6) GWS Slow Flyer Propeller EP1080 - is there a better prop for the 400C/E? They have many.

1) GWS ICS-400 ESC (JR) W/O Power On Switch - or should I get power on?

I have already got the batteries:

3) 8 Cell CBP 1050 - Flat/Deans (8- 2/3A Cells. (9.6volts) NIMH)
4) Deans Ultra Male (2pcs)

Am I getting close to an order? Without really knowing the lingo it's really hard for us newbies to figure out what we need. I think I need to write a sofware program for configuring your own flight pack starting with the motor/gearbox and drill it down to the wire connectors.

Thanks again!
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Old Oct 06, 2004, 06:44 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Better prop is a 12 X 6 (1260) as it gives lots more thrust and is a better match for the Slow Stick!
boomer
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Old Oct 06, 2004, 07:11 PM
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Bishopville S.C.
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I prefer having the switch. It's handy if you need to carry the plane or just take a break. With a switch you don't need the Tx on as much. Without one the Tx must be on anytime the plane's pack is plugged in. Just an opinion though, it really isn't a big deal.
One other thing you will need is a 4mm drill bit (or similar). Believe it or not, the GWS props won't fit the 400 gearbox shaft without reaming them out. Fortunately it is very easy to do!
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Old Oct 06, 2004, 09:31 PM
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Hello all. This is my first post. After reading alot here, i bought my 12 yr old son a ss for his birthday based on the advice i read here. After putting the thing together using the worthless instructions and some advice here, we took it out for its first flight. Hand launched it. Straight up and it stalled and nose dived. Figured it was tail heavy so i slid the wing back alittle and tryed again. This time it flew straight out, it took full up elevator just to keep it in the sky and it would not climb. Acts like it has no power. Here are the specs as built.

gws eps-350c with/d gear
gws ep-1170 prop
7 cell 8.4v 900ma nimh battery.

The leading edge of the wing should be 4.75in to 5.25 in bach from the front end of the stick right? And the cg should be 4 1/8 back from the leading edge??

any insights would really be appricated.

thanks
medic 24
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Last edited by medic 24; Oct 06, 2004 at 09:42 PM.
Old Oct 06, 2004, 10:28 PM
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Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
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It doesn't matter where the LE is. Just get the CG. right. 4-1/8 is fine.
Make sure your pack is still warm from charging. If new, the pack will get better after a few flights. With the CG right, take off and let it build speed before adding elevator.

Hand launching can be tricky. Use full throttle and aim at the horizon. If you can't see the horizon, aim slighly down. Most people tend to throw up, so aiming down is nearer to level. It is critical to let the plane build momentum before attempting to turn or add elevator. The elevator does NOT make it climb, the motor does. Adding elevator too soon gaurantees a stall.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 02:00 AM
semper ventosus
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Sasebo, Japan
Joined Jun 2004
992 Posts
Thank you for that Ron H and Boomerace. 12x6 aye aye.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 06:43 AM
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Thanks ron, I am a 1:1 scale pilot so i understand the controls but thought maybe i was overthinking the thing. I have a large hayfeild right out my front door only 30 feet away. Really helps to soften the crunches from the departures from controled flight. But i don't have a good place to ROG. It just acts like it doesen"t want to accererate from the hand launch. I have to dive it to keep it in the air. Is my motor,prop batt como ok? Anthing else i should check?

thanks
medic 24
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 07:37 AM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medic 24
Thanks ron, I am a 1:1 scale pilot so i understand the controls but thought maybe i was overthinking the thing. I have a large hayfeild right out my front door only 30 feet away. Really helps to soften the crunches from the departures from controled flight. But i don't have a good place to ROG. It just acts like it doesen"t want to accererate from the hand launch. I have to dive it to keep it in the air. Is my motor,prop batt como ok? Anthing else i should check?

thanks
medic 24
I'm no expert and in fact I have never even flown and I have yet to build my plane. But there is a good resouce I found to help with the motor/props/batt selection process at:

http://www.gws.com.tw/english/produc...em/eps350c.htm

I figure since they made it, they must know it. Maybe trying something in the middle for the D like the 1047? For a buck and a half you can try many different props:

http://www.gwsexpert.com/index.php?cPath=4_27

Hope this resource helps.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 07:54 AM
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Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
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That should be a good setup. One other thing comes to mind. Any chance the prop is on backward? This oversight happens more often than any of us care to admit.

It may help to give the motor a quick break in. Just run it at low throttle for a few minutes until it smooths out.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 10:50 AM
WAA pilot #21
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Princeton NJ
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron H
Any chance the prop is on backward? This oversight happens more often than any of us care to admit.
Im always the first to 'fess up my stupid mistakes. Keeps peoples expectations low.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 10:52 AM
Been There! Done That!
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
As Ron Say the lettering on the prop goes to the front of the plane!
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 10:58 AM
WAA pilot #21
Vanning's Avatar
Princeton NJ
Joined Dec 2003
3,166 Posts
By the way Medic, did you get it straightened out yet?
Id guess the prop was backwards or the battery wasnt performing well enough yet.
You mentioned it took off and went straight up...was that under its own direction or were you just holding the stick back? Then you adjusted the CG again and it took full-up just to keep it level...
Is it possible the CG was right to begin with and your first crash was because you were pulling back on the stick? The SS (and most planes) need little or no up-elevator to take off. With the CG then moved far forwards, the tail will be struggling to keep the nose up and you'll never accumulate speed.
The elevator doesnt make the plane go up - it just points her upwards. Airspeed makes the plane go up. If you have one without the other, your not gonna go up.
If you try taking off with up elevator, then it'll she'll never get up to speed and you'll stall it.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 04:59 PM
AMF
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Chandler Williams, Arizona, United States
Joined Oct 2004
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Just Started Building

I finally took the SS out of the box, read this entire thread (wow!) and am now ready to build. Now I've read many posts here that talk about the instructions that come with the SS and I'll agree, they are pretty bad. The first question I had was in the section they call "DISASSEMBLED TAIL SET". The exact words are "Using hacksaw, cut the fuselage tube to two parts.". I understand the cutting process, but what I don't know is how long this piece should be. Or maybe I should ask, how far from the rear of the fuselage would I make this cut. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I thought I would ask before I go and cut something.

Also, Boomer said in a previous post:

Quote:
I usually cut a piece of hardwood and saw in the right and down thrust for the motor and run it to just rear of the wing as that what seems to bend if crashed!
I had an idea about this and welcome your comments. I was wondering if I only cut about a 3-5" hardwood piece of wood and made the cuts for the right/down thrust and epoxied that in first. Then after the plane is complete, come from the rear of the fuselage and fill the rest with that expandable insulation foam found in a spray can. Do you think this foam would be a stronger, lighter and a more balanced approach than using hardwood throughout since the entire cavity would be filled? Or would this create some problem later? Just an idea...

Thanks!
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 05:16 PM
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Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
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I can't see the benefit of having a removable tail. It would be just as much trouble storing or hauling two pieces. It also builds in a weak point.

I think filling the fuse with foam would only add weight. Any impact hard enough to bend the fuse would also bend the foam. An arrow shaft would add a lot of strength but adds weight too. But they fit so tight no glue is needed.
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Old Oct 07, 2004, 06:44 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMF
I finally took the SS out of the box, read this entire thread (wow!) and am now ready to build. Now I've read many posts here that talk about the instructions that come with the SS and I'll agree, they are pretty bad. The first question I had was in the section they call "DISASSEMBLED TAIL SET". The exact words are "Using hacksaw, cut the fuselage tube to two parts.". I understand the cutting process, but what I don't know is how long this piece should be. Or maybe I should ask, how far from the rear of the fuselage would I make this cut. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I thought I would ask before I go and cut something.

Also, Boomer said in a previous post:


I had an idea about this and welcome your comments. I was wondering if I only cut about a 3-5" hardwood piece of wood and made the cuts for the right/down thrust and epoxied that in first. Then after the plane is complete, come from the rear of the fuselage and fill the rest with that expandable insulation foam found in a spray can. Do you think this foam would be a stronger, lighter and a more balanced approach than using hardwood throughout since the entire cavity would be filled? Or would this create some problem later? Just an idea...

Thanks!
DON"T cut the tail that is a stupid idea and should have never been put in the instructions! Cut your thrust plug any length you want as long as a couple of inches gointo the fuse to support the motor. The weight the hardwood adds is a drop in the bucket to the Slow Stick. I wouldn't worry about reinforcing anything but the front of the fuse to the wing as the rest is not where the crash impact occurs. If you hit hard enough to crumble the back part of the fuse the plane is trash anyway or at least a new fuse is needed.
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
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