HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 06, 2004, 12:24 AM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Trim the excess material so there's enough to go all the way around and lie flat on the other side by a noticeable margin, 1/16" or so.
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Last edited by mu2freighter; Dec 06, 2004 at 12:47 AM.
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 06, 2004, 12:36 AM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Iron down the excess on the other side, and voila!

You have a smoothly covered side and corner with no raggedy edges to trim. When painted, it looks like a part from a plastic model kit. In the pic you can just barely see the little piece I covered the corner with in the first steps, but that's only because the Doculam's so clear...it's thin enough that that the first piece's folded edge could barely be felt when it's ironed on, and I couldn't feel it at all once the main piece of covering went over it

BTW, when you do this on the other side of a piece you've already done one side of, the cut edge that overlaps to the already covered side may have a slight roughness to it even after ironing and trimming...no sweat, just sand it smooth with really fine grit paper or sanding film. That's something you can't do with mylar, tissue, or woven fiber coverings! That's also why it's best to do the top of a surface LAST, so any imperfections or marks will be out of sight on the underside

EDIT- Jeez, that grain is sure apparent in the pic! Just to reiterate, that's hard, coarse grained scrap balsa.

Unsanded.

It does show how well Doculam conforms when ironed on though...lol


Like I said, this prep work adds some time and effort expended but for me it's well worth it. No ragged edges, no bare wood showing (or exposed to the elements), and nothing to detract from the nice finished look once it's painted!

Hope this all helped...

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Last edited by mu2freighter; Dec 06, 2004 at 09:11 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 06, 2004, 11:14 AM
Cleared Hot!
Merlin_FAC's Avatar
Melbourne, FL
Joined Feb 2001
501 Posts
Has anyone tried using the $1 water-based acrylic craft paints from Walmart (etc.) on Doculam, either brushed or airbrushed? How about metallic colors like silver and aluminum? I'm gonna try Doculam on the plane I'm finishing and was just wondering if I can use all those paints I have, or if I need to get something different?
Merlin_FAC is offline Find More Posts by Merlin_FAC
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 06, 2004, 11:53 AM
Balsa is love....
glue_sniffer's Avatar
Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2004
1,039 Posts
Ahhh that makes way more sense - the way I was envisioning it had me putting the little piece on the "top" of the sheet instead of on the "side" Thanks Glenn!!!!
glue_sniffer is offline Find More Posts by glue_sniffer
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 06, 2004, 12:29 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by glue_sniffer
Ahhh that makes way more sense - the way I was envisioning it had me putting the little piece on the "top" of the sheet instead of on the "side" Thanks Glenn!!!!
No sweat. Hope it helped!

Those little corners and such aren't that big a deal in the grand scheme of things, but I find it's little details that please me in a build. I don't mind working a bit more to get a desired result...though I try not to too much, lest it spoil my lazy slob image!

Of course, I'm the one who spent the better part of 2 hours this morning pulling 30 feet or so of Kevlar thread through a sponge soaked with aluminum colored paint...twice...to get the 'steel cable rigging' look.

Sheesh, if only I got paid for this silliness

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 06, 2004, 02:03 PM
Gravity is a harsh mistress.
Tim Wolff's Avatar
United States, MI, Temperance
Joined Sep 2002
6,566 Posts
Thanks for the tutorial Glenn. You've mentioned that method before, but I didn't get it until now
Tim Wolff is online now Find More Posts by Tim Wolff
RCG Plus Member
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 06, 2004, 08:55 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiberius
Thanks for the tutorial Glenn. You've mentioned that method before, but I didn't get it until now
No problem, though I don't know if I'd dignify that technique with 'tutorial...' LOL, I just got tired of trying to cover sharp corners with a single piece of covering years back; there was always some snag or roughness with Monokote back when I used it like that, and THAT stuff is really beastly to trim in very small areas. My verbal descriptions are usually (overly) detailed enough to cover all aspects, but that's just my attempt to paint a picture with words...pictures work better!

Amazing what one can accomplish in just a few minutes with a tripod, self timer and a camera set on 'macro.'

I was overdue to detail that, someone asked about that months ago and I clean forgot till Sky reminded me

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 06, 2004, 09:06 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin_FAC
Has anyone tried using the $1 water-based acrylic craft paints from Walmart (etc.) on Doculam, either brushed or airbrushed? How about metallic colors like silver and aluminum? I'm gonna try Doculam on the plane I'm finishing and was just wondering if I can use all those paints I have, or if I need to get something different?
Yep, Charlie (portablevcb) has, and he even uses home latex paint! Look for some of his posts on the subject.

I think it was earlier on this thread I mentioned I used some craft store paint. I needed a kinda-sorta metallized medium gray so I thinned some craft store paint with just enough Polly Scale Aluminum to get the metal feel. Sticks nicely. Charlie did mention that straight craft store metallics are prone to some rubbing off though, for straight metallics you may want to experiment with scrap.

Speaking of durability, on my current build, I found the Badger Model Flex paint I used didn't seem anywhere near as grippy as Polly Scale, but I think the clear coat I found helps a lot. I picked up some matte clear at the Hobby Lobby craft store uder the brand name 'Crafts ETC!' that seems really tough. Once I got some on my wings the little touch-ups needed to deal with paint scrapes from handling seem to have really dropped off.

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2004, 04:05 PM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
2,667 Posts
Glue_Sniffer and Glenn,

That's the kind of stuff that makes this forum great! I'm half-way through covering my Fairchild 24 with Doculam, and your tips and tutorials are just what I need. It really is great stuff once you figure out its idiosyncracies.

Steve
Steve85 is offline Find More Posts by Steve85
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2004, 02:47 PM
Registered User
Rekitter's Avatar
Oakland, CA
Joined Nov 2002
1,184 Posts
Hey Glue Sniffer, Glenn and everyone else on this thread:

ditto Steve. I really appreciate you guys sharing your advice and techniques with doculam. I am trying out your suggestions and it really helps when covering my DH2. This doculam takes a bit of getting used to, but it is great stuff with almost no downside. Thanks again.

Alex
Rekitter is offline Find More Posts by Rekitter
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2004, 04:10 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
15,684 Posts
I have not used the craft store acrylics directly on the doculam on a plan, but, did try it on a test piece and it seemed to work well. It withstood the masking tape test (not if you press it on hard!) but not the fingernail test. So, not quite as good as the house paint. I think the latex acrylic works best because it is designed to shrink and expand with the wood. The house paint even stands up to heating/reshrinking (have not tried to adhere another layer of doculam to it although from what I have seen it should work).

In the near future I'll post a pic of my current project with painted doculam.

charlie
portablevcb is offline Find More Posts by portablevcb
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2004, 04:16 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
15,684 Posts
Glenn, I like your addition to the techniques here. I learn something everytime I cover with this stuff. Will be testing the effect on a lightly stringered fuse next week!

Does it shrink more in one direction than the other?

After rereading above I want to clarify that the craft store acrylics will stick sufficiently well for our uses. But, if you abuse it badly enough it will "let go".

I also have a test piece coming up using a very light layer of the Krylon plastic paint and acrylics over that (as well as Rustoleum plastic primer). Stay tuned!

charlie
portablevcb is offline Find More Posts by portablevcb
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2004, 10:45 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by portablevcb
Glenn, I like your addition to the techniques here. I learn something everytime I cover with this stuff. Will be testing the effect on a lightly stringered fuse next week!

Does it shrink more in one direction than the other?
Thanks, Charlie! Hope all goes well. I still haven't been able to overshrink it with just an iron; the unsupported stringers on the Halberstadt's turtledeck had no bowing or distortion when shrunk. Nope, no discernible 'grain' to Doculam, apply it any which way you like, it shrinks uniformly.

OTOH, after painting, I did discover a few little wrinkles that I hadn't noticed previously since Doculam's so clear. While dealing with them, I discovered that there's something else I don't care for about the Model Flex paint: trying to re-shrink a painted area with the iron, it melts right off and sticks to the iron, unlike Polly Scale

BTW, there were a couple other small wrinkles I found and got rid of after discovering I couldn't use the iron. Very un-PC: I held the affected areas about 1/4" over a lit cigarette...the rising heat and steam worked great, took 'em right out. Needless to say, you don't want to hold the cigarette too close lest you make a burn spot. I managed not to

I took a bit of a delay this past week because of this. The re-shrunk areas were on the top wing, and when I airbrushed over them to deal with the paint that came off with the iron, they came out a lot darker than the rest of it. I was down to dregs in the last paint bottle I had, and a lot of black had settled into it. The result looked like a talentless child had finger painted my touch-up areas! Grrrr....

I wasn't about to spend hours trying to exactly match the gray with a drop here and there of gray & white so I called the LHS to see if they had some more. They gave me a rather imperious 'we're out of Model Flex L&N Gray, and we'll have it again...maybe...in a couple of weeks...or when we have it'

Bah. No way was I gonna wait on them, so I got online to order more. Turns out that apparently Model Flex is being discontinued (good riddance, say I) so it was kinda hard to locate some, but I finally got a couple of bottles a day or so back.

Back on schedule. Touch-up done, all surfaces clear matte sprayed. While letting my top wing dry today after the iron cross decals were applied and it got its clear coat, I assembled the externally braced rudder mechanism and made my cockpit coaming and dash padding.

I made them out of skiver (paper thin leather) a la the Pat Daily method...very cool, I like it! Once I glue them in place tomorrow and add a windshield all fabrication is DONE. Equipment installation, assembly and rigging the rest of this week. I'm getting hyped about finishing and flying this beast!

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Last edited by mu2freighter; Dec 08, 2004 at 10:56 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 11, 2004, 08:11 PM
Registered User
Youngstown, NY
Joined Oct 2003
139 Posts
Glenn and all you other guys-thanks a bunch!! I've seen some airplanes in the mags that used clear covering and wondered what it was. After this "seminar" I've ordered 2 rolls of the 1.5 mil Doculam (at my age this isn't enough for a lifetime, it's probably going to probate after... Anyway, I not only bought this film but went to Walmart and bought both the clear Krylon but also the matte. When you cover with this do you just use heat with the adhesive that's on it, or do you also use Sig Stix-it or other adhesive? Either way, I really appreciate the advice you've given.
Bob Peterson
sturmvogel is offline Find More Posts by sturmvogel
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 11, 2004, 08:19 PM
Registered User
Youngstown, NY
Joined Oct 2003
139 Posts
Glen, another question. I've never used an airbrush and was wondering whether you can use it in the workshop or do you have to build a paint booth? Is there much overspray? If you have a gun that you use for detail work, can you adjust it for a wider swath (like painting the base color on a fuse or wing)? As long as I'm making clear just how dumb I am I might as well ask a few more questions-is Krylon an acrylic paint or is it water based? Is that Stuka a kit, a plan, or what? Tell me it's not a Guillow kit, please... You guys build so well that I'm amazed. What a great thread, though.
Thanks,
Bob
sturmvogel is offline Find More Posts by sturmvogel
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools