Kiwi,

Wow, that was a post from a long time ago!

I actually got a roll sent over from the US for me, won in an eBay auction for $9.95 USD :-D. Sure postage was a bit of a killer but it was still cheaper than the $70 AUD commonly asked around here.

I've also been lucky enough to have had other generous people send me some shorter lengths too.

Paul.

Oops, didn't check the date of your request, just saw it at the top of the page when the thread was re-invigorated. Oh well, put it down to a senior moment!

I sprayed my Doculam covered Stinson Reliant with XIM brand primer-sealer-bonder 400 White. I am using high quality blue 3M plastic masking tape, I have been trying to kill some of the stickiness by rubbing accross my forehead, etc. but it still lifts the primer off the Doculam in little spots.I don't think it will bother the final latex paint job very much . My advice, find the stickiest primer that you can and the least sticky masking tape.

Originally Posted by E-Challenged

I am using high quality blue 3M plastic masking tape, I have been trying to kill some of the stickiness by rubbing accross my forehead, etc. but it still lifts the primer off the Doculam in little spots.

I think this is the biggest issue...where to find some good quality LOW tack masking tape???

If you need a LOW tack masking tape, your best bet is to try a auto body paint supply store. They also have VERY thin fine line masking tape.
Rich

Originally Posted by E-Challenged

I sprayed my Doculam covered Stinson Reliant with XIM brand primer-sealer-bonder 400 White. I am using high quality blue 3M plastic masking tape, I have been trying to kill some of the stickiness by rubbing accross my forehead, etc. but it still lifts the primer off the Doculam in little spots.I don't think it will bother the final latex paint job very much . My advice, find the stickiest primer that you can and the least sticky masking tape.

Try using the Krylon matt spray as primer

A good low tack tape is the type they use for Laqeur paints. The stuff I use is called "Green Painters Mate" from Walmart.

Kiwi,
While your checking at the laminating shops, ask them if they have any end of the rolls around. They usually leave a good 1-2 meters on the roll and discard it. Maybe ask them to keep it for you next if they already discarded. They should give it to you free.

ZZ

OK count me in as a Doculam-inator, I just recieved my two 25" rolls, Jeez. that's a thousand linear feet. I've been a long time tissue user and I'm looking forward to not having my coverings get hammered by all the little scrapes and tears that happen in just transporting my models. I had a fellow at our WWI meet put a finger through the fuselage and covering my old 34" Brisfit trying to pick it up. I said a few choice words then regretted it. as he was one of the fellows who owns Proctor Enterprizes.

As far as paints are concerned, did someone mention in this thread something about some waterbased acrylics available a Wal-Mart that work well airbrushed on? I'm beginning to get Peter Rake's enlarged Brisfit along enough to start sanding and final prepping for covering with Doculam. I've also been considering thin washes of low odor Polycrylic stains mixed with regular poly paint to rplicate a PC10 finish that's seen some, (actually a lot of..) weathering.

Thanks

Loooeee!

Originally Posted by houndsfour

If you need a LOW tack masking tape, your best bet is to try a auto body paint supply store. They also have VERY thin fine line masking tape.
Rich

The cool dude at the auto paint store said that this was the tape used to do flame jobs on bike tanks. I think I need to spend more time in killing the stickiness. The primer I used contains acetone and other smelly stuff and the fine print says that it sticks well on "some plastics". (didn't mention Doculam)

Originally Posted by E-Challenged

The cool dude at the auto paint store said that this was the tape used to do flame jobs on bike tanks. I think I need to spend more time in killing the stickiness. The primer I used contains acetone and other smelly stuff and the fine print says that it sticks well on "some plastics". (didn't mention Doculam)

Absolutely, depending on the clothing I'm wearing at the time, I've had to stick/unstick a piece of tape up to 8 times or so on my pants leg...some experience has given me a feel for when it's just sticky enough to hold on but not so sticky it'll lift paint.

WELL worth it for being able to just use cheap 3M paper tape!

Glenn

Looooeeee!
Good luck with doculam. I think you will really like it and wonder why you have been missing out hehe!

Don't forget to use the Krylon matt spray for primer. That's the key to getting the paint to stick. It works great!
The acrylic paints I use are by DecoArt I got from the Dollar Store. The Crafter's Acrylic series has some good colors and the Americana series has tons of colors. These should be available most anywhere that has craft supplies.

Has anyone tried using Humbrol enamal paints on doculam? How well does it stick? Is the finish heavy?

ZZ

Just a quick note on the Rustoleum paint for plastic. I'm painting my Monocoupe 90A with the black paint and it adheres very well. I was applying the N number which I cut from self-adhesive trim to the underside of the wing and had to use some clear packing tape to keep the letters/numbers aligned. I put the tape on my shirt several times so it wouldn't be to sticky, pressed it on to the lettering and then on to the wing. The tape stuck much more than I thought it would, but I was able to peel it off with no hint of the paint lifting.

Well, lucky me - just got my deliveries for the day and in them I had a 500' roll of laminating film *YAY* looks like I'm set for life.

(I'm in Australia, film was delivered from the US)

I've been reading this thread for a while and decided to buy the 500 foot roll. It's a lot of stuff! Tonight I used it for the first time on my Aerodrome RC Supermarine Sparrow (see the FF forum). My tailplane turned into a pretzel! I really liked working with it, it stuck well and shrunk up well, but after covering it I took the tail into a cooler room and watched my taiplane warp up before my eyes! What did I do wrong? I took it off (easy to do) covered it again and the same thing happened. As I'm running out of time to get this model finished I went back to using coverlite until I can solve the excessive shrinking/warping problem. I am going to use it on the fuselage though, but not the wings - I'll have to match them up with the tail now.

Ian,

Keep your tailplane pinned under some weight - like a stack of magazines or such.

It's a bit like when tissue/dope dries, can cause all sorts of fun behind your back.

Also, try perhaps using a bit less heat.

Paul.

Ian, I don't think you did anything wrong. I had essentially the same thing happen on the tail of my Rake Fokker D.VIII. It did work well on the fuselage but I removed it anyway and used polyspan on the whole aircraft. After my experience, I didn't cover the wing with the doculam so I don't know what affect it would have on the wing. I think the doculam shrink is just too aggressive for the delicate structures of these small aircraft.

Larry