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Old Aug 09, 2004, 02:34 PM
hem.bredband.net/b254298
Nicke's Avatar
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Yippee!
Fireworks III build thread

Look what I picked up at DHL today!

It's the one to the right. The other one I picked up years ago.
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 02:36 PM
hem.bredband.net/b254298
Nicke's Avatar
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The plane is a fireworks III, and it came really well packaged in austrian newspaper balls. I feel sorry for the guy wrinkling up the newspaper into balls, it was hundreds of them!!!
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 02:38 PM
hem.bredband.net/b254298
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And here's the contents.
I really hope I found everything necessary in all that paper, cause now I've thrown it away...

I'll post more as soon as I get started
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 03:39 PM
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San Francisco
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It looks great. I want to order one of these myself but getting it here to the states is a very expensive proposition so I'm hesistant to pull the trigger at this point. I look forward to future posts re assembly/flying.

Greg
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 04:22 PM
Love my Pike Superior!
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Austin, TX
Joined Jul 2003
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I too have been contemplating picking up one of these! It's either going to be the Blaster, Fireworks III or the Osiris. I like the Fireworks III the best! Also the more expensive of the 3 and hardest to get here in the states...

Anyways...more pictures!

Jared
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Old Aug 10, 2004, 10:22 AM
hem.bredband.net/b254298
Nicke's Avatar
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Ok, I actually did some "building" yesterday, but it was bedtime so i only posted the first shots.

I looked through the "building instructions", and it lost me completely. Looked throgh it a few times more, and decided to use it as a guide, but I'll be assembling it the way I feel suits me best.

So I started assembling.

The first step I decided was to mount the wing to the fuse. So first came drilling the mounting holes in the wing. The front hole was pre-drilled with 4mm bit, and the rear was pre-drilled a few mm down. So I only had to drill one hole, and there was no risk of slipping on the cf because of the pre-drilled groove (correct word?)
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Old Aug 10, 2004, 10:25 AM
hem.bredband.net/b254298
Nicke's Avatar
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Joined Nov 2001
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I then taped the wing on the correct position on the fuse and drilled the rear fuse hole through the wing hole.

Then I put in a nylon bolt, to fix the wing even better to the fuse, and making sure the wing was straight on. Drilled the front hole. Voilą!
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Old Aug 10, 2004, 10:27 AM
Love my Pike Superior!
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Austin, TX
Joined Jul 2003
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mmmmm....carbon fiber pretty.

Looking good
Jared
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Old Aug 10, 2004, 10:32 AM
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I then had a look in the manual, and found a page with parts that i thought might be useful to mount in the fuse, strengthening the wing mount.
The manual said something about a 2mm balsa part, which I could see no use for, other than getting the mounting bolt ply parts more easily into the fuse. I decided to skip that.

I drilled the ply parts, and ca:d a 4 mm nut on each. I then glued them in place into the fuse using epoxy. After that I realized that the balsa part might have been quite useful after all...
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Old Aug 10, 2004, 10:43 AM
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Joined Nov 2001
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To help me decide whether to put the flaperon servos in the pod or the wing, I put all the equipment in the pod, and taped the tail parts in place to get an approximate CG.

Now, was that crowded in there or what??? And I thought my slingshot pod was crowded. After this, I'd rather call i quite spacey.

This made me consider putting the servos in the wing, but then I'd have to put lead in the nose since the cg was quite far back. Sure, the tail wasn't sanded yet, but I think that might be compensated by the added weight of the linkages anyway.

So I'll give the pod mounted servos a shot. I just dont know where to put the receiver... in front of or behind the servos

Have a look at this crowded pod
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Old Aug 10, 2004, 01:22 PM
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Austria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicke
...
I just dont know where to put the receiver... in front of or behind the servos
Hi,
I also used a Schulze 8xx in my second FW3. If you remove the case and heat shrink it, you can put it in front of the servos just above of the battery. Pic.
Be careful when removing the case from the Schulze Rx. It is glued to the PCB and components on several points.

Matthias
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Old Aug 11, 2004, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGerstgrasser
If you remove the case and heat shrink it, you can put it in front of the servos just above of the battery. Pic.
Thank you, I think I might try that.

Update on the build:

Yesterday evening someone I met at a F3K competition called. We are going to travel together to a competition held on sunday, and we will go on saturday.
Soooo; now I really have to build fast, so there won't be much time to post as the build goes along.
But I've progressed quite far from yesterday evening:

Wing and aileron servos + linkages are in place.
Stabs sanded and almost completely covered. So what remains i s to mount the stabs, and make linkages.

I only have one concern; the horiz stab mount seems really flimsy! Maybe it gets stiffer as the two parts are glued together. Maybe it should be soaked with ca, since the cf seems really "dry".

I'll post updates and competition report next week.
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Old Aug 12, 2004, 01:09 PM
hem.bredband.net/b254298
Nicke's Avatar
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Joined Nov 2001
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HELP!!! Wing is warped!

Ok, I'll post build and flight reports next week, but now i need som HELP!

On the maiden it banked hard left. I had to dial in a LOT of rigt trim to make it fly straight. The right aileron is as much as 5 mm above the left at the root!

So how can I straighten a moulded wing
Does the good ol heatgun and twist method work??? Need help fast, I only have tomorrow to do final trimming before the contest!
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Old Aug 12, 2004, 02:09 PM
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Dear Nicke,

I'd shoot to get a replacement wing from the manufacturer.

...but, for the contest, for bagged wings, you can put each wing panel flat on a building board (making holes in the board to clear pags and horns), cover it with many layers of bath towels, and fill the bath towels with as much boiling water as they'll hold, and let it cool. Then do the other wing.

I worry about the effect of this on a hollow-molded wing, so I'm not making a recommendation. You might end up with very different airfoil or a completely ruined wing.

Has anyone else tried this or another method on a molded wing (presumably glass/balsa/glass laminated skins)?

Would the manufacturer agree for you to try it or the head-gun method and give you a new wing if it gets ruined? (Seems they owe you another wing!)

Good luck,

Marc
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Old Aug 12, 2004, 02:18 PM
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Austria
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Hi,

sorry to hear that. I also had a problem with aileron trim needed to fly straight (about 2mm at root). In my case it was one of the flaps beeing twisted. The wing itself was straight. Check that, before you apply any heat. Untwisting the flap works with some heat. I used a hair dryer, not a heat gun. Only a small amount of heat and force was necessary. The fix is not permanant an has to be repeated every now and then.
If it's really the wing in your case, complain and try to get a replacement.

Greets,
Matthias

P.S.: @Marc:
I think that's a method that works well on bagged foam wings. In the case of a glassed balsa wing, I would never do that, because there is a great chance that the humidity will go through the glass layer and warp the balsa.
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